ZooZ vs Enbrighten - New Home Build

I have multiple LED lights rated at 150 watts per light. These are some serious outdoor lights. Something like the Zen 71 is rated at 150 watts. Too close for comfort on maxing it out. The zen 30 double switch might work, but then I have an additional button on the switch I don’t need.

Enbrighten 700 series appears to support up to 960 watts. That is great because I could in theory do 4 lights on a single switch.

I guess I’m pondering why ZooZ only offers much lower wattage? I was hoping to standardize on ZooZ for a new home build, but I don’t think it’s practical for some of my requirements.

If you were building a new house, would you try to standardize with a single vendor or should I not worry about it?

For zwave where the mesh gives you the possibility of switches tied to lights directly kind of thing, a single vendor gives you a better chance that they will talk to each other without the coordinator or HA being involved. A good thing when the network is down.

Are you sure of the spec difference? The Zooz is 960 w incandescent and 150 w LED. For the Enbrighten I only see a generic 960w limit. Not clear they are really different. For an on/off (relay) the limit is mostly about arcing across the contacts so I’d be surprised if they were different for a residential grade switch. Dimmers are a different story entirely since you can absolutely burn out the triac or mosfet if you overload it (done that myself not pay attention to the actual loads) I have some Jasco switches (older models before branded as Enrighten) and don’t think they are nearly as nice as Zooz.

Good point. I’m talking LED’s here and you might be right, maybe Enbrigthen is talking regular and not LED? Does anyone know? I’m not using dimmers in this instance.

In general does anyone know why incandescent has a much higher limit vs LED?

It is about the srart up current surge. LEDs can see a very high inital current flow at switch on due to their capacitors etc wheteas incandescent bulbs don’t. They just rather slowly (in electrical terms) start to heat up the filament. It is that current surge that can cause problems for the switch like arcing across the contacts as the start to close.