I have contacted the manufacturer lets see if he comes back with an answer on what this is.
Added the images from what’s inside if they help in any way.
Not that I know about.
But I just traced the common and tested the pins on the chip to the common and the remote sent the code.
That way I know if I connect a optocoupler between the common and the pin, the remote will be triggered as if the button was pressed.
Looking at the pictures it’s not clear where the battery is, generally the common leads directly to it. And the images is a bit dirty and blurry.
@Hellis81 Apologies for the blurry picture. I have uploaded new once. Hopefully this will help. I am not much aware of the EPS option that you mentioned but if there would have been some guide would be ready to try.
It’s still hard to see when you can’t turn it around and see where each of the traces connect.
But looking at the trace between K10 and K15, K12 and K16. They seem to be the common.
You probably need to probe with the multimeter to try and find where the traces go.
As you can see I had a similar issue a few weeks ago:
How to know the frequency/technology used in a remote? - Hardware - Home Assistant Community (home-assistant.io)
I used a dupont cable and held it to the ground and touched the pins on the board.
I don’t suggest you do that on your board, your board have more resistors which might be needed by some reason.
My remote only had resistors by the LED and therefor I felt safe that I could probe around more.
I suggest using the multimeter and try to find the route it’s connected with the beeper mode.
@Hellis81 sorry for not mentioning this before but the front of the remote has a blue light which glows on key press. Is this IR?
IR is not visible so no.
But there is a LED on the board at the top.
And the trace starting between K12 and K16 going up along the edge is probably the antenna.
And now that I look at it closer.
K3, meaning the button with WW/NW/CW seems to be connected the the second pin from the top on the left side.
I still can’t make out where the common is but that seems to be the button pin.
Thanks @Hellis81 so if I can’t do the DIY stuff there is no way to have a off the shelf universal remote which can handle these lights? Something like the Broadlink RM Pro 4 for example?
No. That won’t work.
The Broadlink uses 433 MHz, it can’t transmitt att 2.4 GHz.
If you can buy a spare remote then that would be great to test on, that way it won’t matter if it breaks.
Now it makes sense to me… I had been looking at it the wrong way around.
The common is the ground pin (negative of the battery).
I can’t see that there is any resistors or anything else connected to the pins going to the buttons.
I think you can take a wire from one of the pins leading to the buttons and ground it and the remote will fire the command.
But I don’t know for sure.
I can’t say that you should try, and if this DIY method of soldering optocouplers seems out of your reach then there is no reason to try it anyways.
@Hellis81 thanks again for thinking over it 
. I definitely know that this is out of my reach. I was looking more for a off the shelf solution if any can match.
I’m quite sure that will be impossible to find.
Is all DIY out of reach or is does this sound too hard?
I will have to first see if I can get another remote as I don’t want to spoil the lights as most of it wont work without remote. If there is a specific guide I can try but experimental will be mostly out of reach.
I can’t find any guides, but it’s just soldering on a optocoupler (kind of the same thing as a relay).
It’s four connectors. Two connectors go to the ESP to make sure the ESP can turn on the optocoupler.
The other two connectors close when the ESP turns on the optocoupler.
So essentially you add a ESP controlled switch to each button, one pin per button and a common ground.
I have the same ceiling light and no solutions. Do you have any news?
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Do you find a solution? I have the same ceiling light 
I’m also interested. I have similar light - same brand, the remote has different numbers, but it has the same frame factor… I took a pick of the led controller before installing the light. At this point, I don’t mind if I need a separate hub, I kinda want to make my lights accessible by something that I can control using HA or Google. Oh yeah, if it was zigbee or any other big protocol, I imagine they would advertise it, so it’s probably either ble or more likely, proprietary protocol :S
Which is the code written on the microcontroller remote?