Air conditioner models with different on/off IR?

[anon35356645]

Do they exist, inverter?

[lexam79]

Can you describe in more detail what it is you’re looking for? It’s nor clear from your question, at least not to me.

[masterkenobi (Ben)]

I think I know what you mean. You want to know which A/C model with a separate on and off buttons on the remote instead of toggle button, right?

I’m too facing this problem. With the toggle button, when I ask “Alexa, turn on the A/C”, if the A/C is already on, it will turn it off. If separate on/off buttons, it won’t turn off the A/C. It simply turn on the A/C again which doesn’t change anything.

My Samsung and Panasonic A/C have separate on/off buttons (technically one button, but 2 different IR codes). However, my York A/C is a toggle button.

[anon35356645]

They all have a single ON/OFF button, If you use machines like Broadlink IR blaster, you never know if you turned it ON or OFF because the On/OFF signal is the same.

WHich makes remote controlling impossible. Having a clear distinction, you could press the ON twice (or 3/4 times) just to be sure it got the signal, and you are sure you give the ON signal

[Snedig (Preben Dyrholm)]

I’m presuming as masterkenobi does, that you mean an A/C with seperate IR codes for on and off.

There is actually a clever workaround for this I discovered thanks to this guy:

ToniA/arduino-heatpumpir

His Panasonic-library can turn on the pump this way:

Setting the on-timer to one minute ahead.
Waiting two minutes.
Removing the timer.

I haven’t checked the other libraries, but presumably this can be done for all pumps that have a timer function as long as you have the complete set of decoded IR codes.

[anon35356645]

Yep (and yep Alexa problem)

I have Panasonic, the remote is toggle, but maybe the codes are different (a Panasonic tv has this characteristic of remote toggle but on/off codes different).

Where to check if my model has different ir codes?

[masterkenobi (Ben)]

ah yes… same problem with the TV. When the TV is already off, turning it off again from HA or Alexa is actually turning it on.

I have no idea where to check this info. I guess the best way is to test it out in the store before you buy it.

[anon35356645]

@Snedig

Setting the on-timer to one minute ahead.

Waiting two minutes.

Removing the timer.

Ohh, that’s cool. But how to do it for my Panasonic air conditioner … ?

Now my first task is to understand which model I have.

The external unit is 8 meters above ground (no balcony), the internal unit is almost attached to the waal and I can’t read the model number … GGRRRR

[anon35356645]

@masterkenobi

My Samsung and Panasonic A/C have separate on/off buttons (technically one button, but 2 different IR codes).

where did you get the codes On and OFF (if your remotes has just toggle)

[anon35356645]

@masterkenobi

ah yes… same problem with the TV. When the TV is already off, turning it off again from HA or Alexa is actually turning it on.

exacltly. FOr my Panasonic TV (a plasma of 2013) I was able to download the codes from the internet (can’t remember now where I found them).

Now I have it work perfectly with Alexa (ON is ON and OFF is OFF).

Besides last week, if you have the Broadlink RMPRO or Mini, now the new Broadlink APP (IHC) that works with Alexa discovers by itself in Alexa as Television and the ON is ON and OFF is OFF. But this works only for Television not anything else (typical crappy chinese software)

[anon35356645]

a very unsmart solution is to put a very cheap indoor camera pointed to the A/C indoor unit …

[masterkenobi (Ben)]

One way to determine the exact state of the switch is to use a smart wall socket that can report power consumption to HA. Then use the value to determined the state in a Template Switch. After that, use the template switch to control the TV/AC.

@anon35356645

where did you get the codes On and OFF (if your remotes has just toggle)

First, point your remote to the AC and press the power button. It will turn the AC on.

Next, point the remote AWAY from the AC and press the power button again.

Finally, point the remote to the AC again and press the same button again. If it remains on, means it is different IR code. If the AC turn off, it means it is a toggle button.

[Snedig (Preben Dyrholm)]

Well, the codes are already reverse engineered in the library I linked, however you will need an Arduino or ESP8266 for example to make use of them in their current form.

If that sounds like your cup of tea, I tried out the ESPEasy distro on a NodeMCU the other day to get my heat pump into HomeAssistants clutches, and that worked really well once I finally managed to flash the right libraries and things onto it. It also has support for a lot of sensors, so I stuck a BME280 on there for temperature readings, and managed to thermostat control my heat pump. (Mainly so I had an excuse for telling my wife not to touch the remote and turning the living room into the freezing arctic at all times… )

[anon35356645]

@masterkenobi

One way to determine the exact state of the switch is to use a smart wall socket that can report power consumption to HA. Then use the value to determined the state in a Template Switch. After that, use the template switch to control the TV/AC.

I have that, can you help me with it? Is a zwave switch, for which I am also trying to understand how to calculate the DAYLY energy consumption.

Calculating energy cosumption each day (Zwave power plug

Hi I have a Neo Coolcam zwave power plug (I think is a clone of the Fibaro/Aeotec) with following entity_ID I do not understand the INTERVAL and PREVIOUS READING how it works, I imagine it keeps 4 intervals and 4 previuous readings? So in order to know the consumption of EACH DAY, how would I program it. I am very bad at templating 0 sensor.neo_coolcam_power_plug_12a_alarm_level 0 sensor.neo_coolcam_power_plug_12a_alarm_type 0 sensor.neo_coolcam_power_plug_12a_current 6.17 sensor.neo_coo…

[anon35356645]

@masterkenobi

First, point your remote to the AC and press the power button. It will turn the AC on.
Next, point the remote AWAY from the AC and press the power button again.
Finally, point the remote to the AC again and press the same button again. If it remains on, means it is different IR code. If the AC turn off, it means it is a toggle button.

Hurray, mine is with different ON/OFF, great.

I also have a powerful/quite/auto button, but I think that is circular code (same code)

[anon35356645]

@masterkenobi

One way to determine the exact state of the switch is to use a smart wall socket that can report power consumption to HA. Then use the value to determined the state in a Template Switch. After that, use the template switch to control the TV/AC.

Can you give me an example how to do it?

If value is below 750 Watt I know is in Quite mode
Between 751 and 1199 is in Auto mode
Above 1200 is powerful mode

[noshali (Ali Raza)]

you can look at sensibo.com
I use it and works fine with acs that user an ir remote control.

[anon35356645]

Its’ a 120 USD device. You can do the same with a Broadlink mini (10 USD) + your HASS installation …

[noshali (Ali Raza)]

you are right but supported them during crowd funding and was not aware of home assistant…but getting codes in for ACs is not the same as TV. AC remotes dump everything…for eg if you change the temp from 24 to 25 C…the remote will dump whether it is on coll, fan setting…swing setting…etc etc…
Find ir codes fo ACs was a nightmare.

[anon35356645]

It’s ok you did well. I bought 4 x 150 Euro Netatmo shitty product, I could have done the same with 1/10th of the price and HASS, which I discovered later. Things like this happens.

As per the codes, you just need the original remote. I found out that my Panasonic IR each key press is different (pretty smart from panasonic) even if you press the same key (circular mode, each key 3 functions, but same key has 3 different IR codes).

My other chinese made A/C of course not.