To do this but I’m finding it’s no longer working even when I do a big change and then go back.
Also wondering about the airtouch setup. For example mine is only set with three fan speeds. Is this to match my actual air conditioner? What does airtouch use these to set different percentages. If I enable more fan speeds in installer mode that’s actually changed the real fan speeds?
The fan speed settings in the ac setup section are for different brands and should not be adjusted.
If your unit only ever came with auto, low, medium and high then that’s all that you should have selected.
Activating others will cause issues.
Thanks for that. I’m looking at my installer mode and I saw above you said there was a new AI Auto. Can you tell me if my setup currently is optimal? This is a small townhouse with two downstairs zones and three upstairs zones. MITSUBISHI ELECTRIC PEA-M125HAA
I have fake spill set up as library zone even though it actually doesn’t have a controller or damper. It is a small always on duct which is about 4 meters away from the return vent in the upstairs middle area.
Now I’m not sure why Auto off is selected here.
I’ve had it for 2yrs, it is fine except sometimes I feel the wind is a bit strong when it’s only 1C off.
All looks ok,
Make sure you have done the new gateway firmware update the power cycle the whole system after.
Of all your zones have closed up your spill/constant zone will end up with a lot of airflow.
For AI fan speed, go to the zoning tab and on the right you will see some arrows. Click on one and it will open up a page. Use the outlet option as it is best.
It will bring up a list of all your zones and you will need to program what size outlets you have and add however many you have per zone.
Once done, just click back then go to the main screen on the new fan speed will appear in your normal fan speed options.
Auto off is a safety so that if all the zones are off then the system will stop or it won’t start until one is turned again. It’s best to be activated
Thanks I see the outlet option and it defaults to 300. But how do I know what size outlets I have? I know all the ducts are the same size except for the spill in the library. Should I just set the library one as half the size
So I now see in the fan speed there is intel. Where can I read about how this actually all works
Also I found some times the aircon keeps running even though it has hit the temperatures eg
Every region is below the set point and it’s still running and cooling
Your using the system on dry mode and the system itself decides a setpoint and fan speed, it’s the logic of the ac system itself.
I’ve said it before but I wouldn’t recommend using dry mode generally, it’s not needed when things are setup and installed properly.
I will confirm tomorrow because mine isn’t used in dry but I have a feeling the Airtouch drives all on zones to 50% open in the background, similar to what fan/fresh is doing which then takes temperature control away from the zones. In dry mode the ac system itself would be using its own return air temp sensor.
If you have round outlets, you just need to k ow the inner diameter, square outlets are harder because different sizes can be connected to the same size vent.
Do you have a duct plan??
Intel auto works as follows,
The Airtouch looks at what size vents and how many are in rooms, it looks at the percentage that they are open in the back ground and as a total percentage of what’s open in the system it chooses what fan speed is best for the situation.
Hey @smitcoracing, Ive just had an Airtouch5 installed and have it working in HA. Just wondering if i could pick your brains regarding setup to make sure its working as it should. Any chance to have a chat?
Thanks. Sounds like we can/should keep it in Intel auto all the time then.
I don’t have a duct plan But I have been in the roof so I know where everything is going And where it splits off. Only the library duct which doesn’t have a damper is also a smaller diameter.
The reason I used dry is this:
Say it’s 25C and 75%. Cool takes me to 22C and maybe 65%.
Dry takes me to 22C and 50%, and also uses less power (2kW) so I am only using my solar generation. Cool uses 4-5kW So I can only cover it during the middle part of the day.
Or it’s 22C and 75% raining. Cool does 21C and 75%. Dry gets 21C and 68%.
That’s cool, dry is only intended for that scenario you described but for me I just drop my setpoint another degree over normal and I have no issues and I’m in the Gold Coast. Maybe switch back to cooling so you have the room temp co tool once the humidity is removed from the home.
100% recommend just using intel only, my home has o my been on that fan speed since I was given that update 3yrs before it was public released and it does everything it should.
If you can’t get duct sizes, just try using the area option instead of outlet option.
Have confirmed, when the system is on dry mode the control sensor for the system is the AC sensor and no longer the room sensors. This will be because the dry mode is part of the ac systems own logic and algorithms.
If you have dampers set with minimum vent too high or your automating damper positions then you will be getting over shoots other wise the sensors will control the opening and closing of dampers as normal.
We’ve just pulled the trigger on a 18kw Panasonic system with Airtouch and 6 ITS. I intend to have a trawl through this thread but was interested in what learnings people could share that I should be asking the installer to ensure the Airtouch is optimally configured for when I later go to integrate into HA.
Thanks in advance 
I’m just moving over to this custom component for Airtouch integration. It seems very good. There’s a thread about it somewhere around here.
I hope the Panasonic units have gotten quieter. I had a Panasonic ducted unit about 5 years ago, the outdoor and indoor units were so loud we had them take it all out and put a Daikin in instead.
I use Panasonic in my own home and it’s my job and I could use any brand I want in my own house.
I have Panasonic because they are good units and have air purification, second choice would have been Mitsubishi Electric followed then by Daikin.
I’m happy to help you after it is installed so it works as best it should but if you want to make sure it does work as it should make sure you have room sensors for ALL zones and that you have a bypass and of sufficient size. If your installer doesn’t know how one works or doesn’t want to use a bypass or leaves outlets not zoned I wouldn’t be using them…
The biggest thing I learned was about Spill Zones vs a Bypass. I didn’t understand about this stuff. I would ask you installer that if he’s planning to use a spill zone (cheapest option), which room will it me, and make sure that fits with your lifestyle (ie that room might be hotter/colder than desired.
Hi!,
I am hoping you can help me. I have recently had airtouch 5 installed in our place at Tomakin - however the installer had no experience with a bypass install an I am pretty sure its been setup incorrectly. Details:
I have had an overheating error a couple times on the upstairs unit not long after installed when I used the upstairs unit in heating mode (the bypass zone was actually on in the zone settings) - I asked them back to check and said nothing wrong. I asked specifically about the bypass zone and was told that an acceptable way to set it up.
I have been through the recommendations here and noticed that in the installed menu both have been set to ‘AC’.
Hoping for some help to set this up properly as I suspect setup issues are impacting the efficiency and effectiveness of the unit.
I have an HA green unit and just starting that journey of integration.
Regards
I have messaged you but you can’t have both a bypass and a spill zone at the same time and the control needs to be setup for one or the other (Auto or Economy)
Sorry just noticed you have two systems but they will need to be set different and I have seen many times in twin systems that people actually get them back to front, sometimes badly.
A bypass will never be visible on the screen itself.
The system with a bypass if it does actually have one should have its control sensor set to Auto.
The system downstairs should have a spill zone selected of the correct size and the control sensor should be set to economy.
The bypass needs to be plugged into the last zone so in your system the upstairs system and its zones should be last in the list.
I have also seen people leave all zones assigned to the one system which you can’t do, each system needs to have the correct number of zones assigned to it.
AC is the default control sensor and is a indication that the installer didn’t know or understand how to set anything up properly. I would say you have plenty wrong and it will contribute to the system faulting in heating.
Thanks for the advice and apologies this is going away from the intent of this thread but when is it generally recommended to go either spill zones or bypass? The way I’m seeing it:
Our system will be replacing an underfloor system rather than a ceiling system if that makes any difference to what option is more appropriate?
A bypass is the best way to have your system installed as it increases efficiency and gives you the best temperature/comfort but as this adds an extra zone motor and some additional ducting to the system space can be a problem so spills are used.
Many townhouses we just can’t retrofit one in.
A bypass duct does need to be of a minimum size and able to move a certain amount of air in the same way a spill does.
The reason for this is that AC systems need to have a certain minimum amount of airflow across the evaporator coil and the point of these is to relieve pressure off ducting and zone motor blades.
The controller had to be able to support many new and existing installation types which is why it does come with options of controls.
Cost wise, if I provided you a quote a bypass would add about $400 to the total cost of your installation and maybe a little more if an extension module is required.
I’m not sure why but sometimes 11pm the whole aircon turns off no one touched it
Are all your zones turning off at that time as they will turn the system off or do you have any programs running that would be turning it off?
