For the relay alone?
Looks like an Aussie plug? Yes?
Yes AU v3 , thanks but i am looking for an upgrade not just a replacement
they do get hit with 3kw loads and do a bit of melting i do have home assistant try and turn them off when over loaded but that does not help when relay sticks
Sounds like it’s definitely too much for the relay contacts. I’d be looking to swap the socket for a heavy duty one. You can get a heavy duty switch from Aeotec if you have Z-Wave at all. (big price difference, but safe and won’t let you down)
au.element14.com seems broken for me
Access Denied (Error 403)
i believe this is what you where showing still 16A tho anything that package size 20a ?
try again, I updated the link
doesn’t look like it. When stepping up to a 20A contact, the form factor is too big to fit into the Athom socket.
looks like your right even if i did fit it in
hitting 20A relays the coil currents might be too high
going from 40~90mah to ~310mah
I might just have to go back to building my own ESP32 relay boards and just using current clamps for monitoring
like TBH amazed the athom have not actually died
they have been abused on a AC solar micro inverter strings since 9/4/2024
~100 solar panels that I use to get early morning / late arvo boosts with
the only real issue I have had has been earth leaks tripping the breakers
I have had many other brands doing low duty work ~100w loads that the circuits just failed on , and meross ~2x the price just seem to die left right and centre or just randomly factory reset
A failure is not delivering on the advertised performance for a reasonable lifespan. It does not matter which component fails.
Every single Athom switching unit I’ve had has failed and the failure modes vary. They were all operated well within their advertised performance capabilities.
The thing here is that a socket rated at 2400W is getting hit with 3000W, so it is over it’s rated capacity.
Hence why I said “advertised performance”.
That they failed when being used outside their rated parameters is unsurprising given they consistently fail when operated within them.
I have got quite a population of UK Athom plugs. Some of the v1 have failed and I have dismantled two and replaced the failed PSU capacitor. However the cases are damaged and I am left with bare but working devices. I am thinking about redeploying one to control my coffee machine, but to do that I need to add a level sensor to the water tank - probably a xkc-y25-npn. I’ve found the 5v line but wonder about where any of the “spare” GPIO might be exposed?
This is the 8285 chip daughter board:
I think this is the pin-out:
However the Tasmota utilises other GPIO which aren’t on the daughter board:
Ideally, I’d like to find GPIO15 or 16. But do I have any better options than repurposing GPIO13?
Just be a bit careful, often these boards aren’t isolated from the mains and you may have high voltages on the GPIOs.
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Lots of progress on this project.
I have:
- Unsoldered the relay from the motherboard (blue & yellow) and repurposed it to create the volts free contacts to imitate the coffe machine button press.
- Tapped on to the internal voltage supply to get +5v and GND (red and black) for the level sensor
- Removed the button and accessed GPIO3 (white) which is presented as a 3.3V signal when the sensor detects water in the tank.
Next step is to get the status of GPIO3 to show in HA.
I’ve bought a bunch of their non-switching power monitoring EU plugs, branded PG01 V2N.
Has anyone verified that the 230v parts are completely pass-through?
In theory they should be pretty safe. I’m mostly worried about shitty connections that could make them overheat, as I’m planning to push 2+ kW through them.
Might have to sacrifice one to have a look on the internals.
I’ve just received some of the non-relay versions amd they are not Athom branded, but IOTTECH. Anyone else got the same ?
EDIT: Yes sorry IoTorero
Yes, I think all of their stuff will re-brand eventually.
Edit: But my non-relay monitor ESPHome plugs (PG01 V2N) are branded IoTorero, not IOTTECH. Still called athom on the esphome network side, though.
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You can study the pictures at Blackadder.
I do not belive i can be completely pass-through. There is no clamp in the pictures and the normal sollution is to run one of the connectors through de eletronics doing the measuring. The plug is marked 16A, but I would not use more than 2 kW over longer periods of time.
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The manufacturer told me that the reason for not having the Australian RCM mark and associated approvals is that the Athom/IoTorero smart plug has only a single-pole relay switching the active (L). This is sufficient for US and EU but not for AUS which seems to require switching also the neutral (N).
I have vew v2 EU plugs and 3 of them died in about 18 months.
Hi Tilen, can you advise whether these were the ones with or without the relay. The Athom plugs with relay seem to be very much the same as all the other brands, which commonly fail at 12-24 months.
There is suggestion that the ones without relay will run cooler and so may last much longer. I expect it’s still a little early to get real world experience on these.