I feel late to the party here, but I finally got around to writing up my Arlec Grid Connect Christmas lights, which are Tuya MCU based. The advice here and on the Tasmota wiki was invaluable, hopefully this helps someone else as well.
https://www.madebymikal.com/hacking-on-arlec-christmas-lights-with-tasmota/
This is a long thread. I wish i found it sooner. There was a mention on this dimmer:
[https://www.tradezone.com.au/product/brilliant-200-watt-smart-led-dimmer-mech-white-79163.html](http://Brilliant 200 Watt SMART LED Dimmer Mech White)
Has anyone converted it? I’ll order one in any case I try it myself.
I’m doing renovations in a couple on months, I need to convince/specify to the architect the electrical setup I want. I don’t think I can ask the sparky insert sonoff’s for me. I’m going to pick up a Deta gpo and switch from Bunnings to show her what can be done.
I there a summary page anywhere of this thread?
Closest thing to a summary:
I have that page booked marked, but it does not state if the device is certified…
In Australia, things must be certified 
for our safety 
I have a question about tuya convert. I am in the process of flashing some kogan smart plugs. I have successfully flashed using tuya convert and then tasmota. I was warned to make sure I get the SSID and password correct for the flash or I could brick the device.
Once flashed can I use these devices on another wifi network or must it always be on the network I flashed with originally?
Boxing day at Bunnings, to pick up my bit to show the architect. They had a whole display on smart home devices, including a few things not in the web site yet:
I found the plugbase for sell $20. The same as the rewireable plug. I purchased a couple.
It tuya-converted. Template:
{"NAME":"DetaPlugBase","GPIO":[0,17,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,56,21,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}
I relay, one barely visible led inside the hole off to the side of the ground pin, and a next to useless push button inside that hole (it came it a plastic key/pin to press this button for pairing mode).
I’ll published this once there is a reference to to it on bunnings or deta web sites.
This device would be idea if it also had a switch terminal on the back, so the sparky can added more light to the same control.
I haven’t not open it up yet. No problem removing the triangle screw, but it requires four tight fitting plastic latches to plied. Through I doubt there is much that be hacked here.
I could not find the ‘sonoff’ reply, or some downlights they had on the display. I was told, the display was only just installed, and they don’t have stock.
There’s a couple of things here.
Once it is flashed with tasmota, it comes up with its own AP (Access Point) tasmota-XXXX using a wifi Manager.
At this point to you connect to this ssid, and tell it the ssid and password of the wifi you want it to connected too.
Now once it is saved, your device could be bricked if these were incorrect.
I believe there is some setoptions/command to tell it to go back to the AP is it fail to connect, but I don’t know these off the top on my head and can’t locate them at this hour…
If you actually have mistyped the ssid or password, and you know how you mistype it, you can alway set your wifi router to match these settings.
If you have your device working on a wifi network, and want it move it to another, before you move tell it the new ssid/password, or tell it to use the wifi manage on next reboot wificonfig 2
If it can’t connect to the SSID it SHOULD revert to WiFi Manager by itself anyway. (Tasmota)
Did you sell any? I might be interested in a few. Don’t need many but…
What’s this then!? A Jaycar Shelly ?
https://www.jaycar.com.au/240v-mains-wi-fi-wireless-switch-module-with-app/p/MS6126
Alright friends I need a new split system air con, what are people using??
Does it have wifi? Is there a wifi module available for it?
What do you recommend? 
My current unit is a 1kw gree unit, looking for at least 2.5-5kw because the previous owner was a cheap ass
I have two Daikin split systems that the previous owner installed 20 years ago. Still going strong.
Both dumb as a box of hammers. I do control them with IP2IR modules (Global Cache) but am sure you could do better nowadays (e.g. https://au.sensibo.com/ if no wifi built in).
Just though I’d chime in with the reliability. Though I suppose there’s no guarantee that they are still making them this good.
I installed myself a full ducted daikin.
I had only one issue so far with a sensor in the outdoor unit that was causing the system to think it was low on charge. Which was probable there since day dot.
Daikin fixed it as soon as I called them.
I’d recommend Daikin as it all built here .
Well I know there ducted systems are. Can’t confirm if the split systems are as well.
Mitsubishi have a wifi system that has an integration (custom at this point). The wifi hardware is not cheap and is cloud. Instead you can use a esp8266 and have entirely local control. https://github.com/SwiCago/HeatPump
My system is a Skyzone which is great but they made the mistake of using cheap stripped out wifi android tablets as the wall controller. I use a custom component for that. The old Skyfi app has been replace with a new Airbase that seems to be much better. daikin airbase is supported by HA.
It’s local control.
So best advise pick a system that you know you can control locally via HA.
Can you confirm if the Kogan plugs with the USB ports have a local on/off button (like the gen1 version) It’s not overly clear from the photos or specs
@kanga_who, @sparkydave - not sure if you guys have any of these also who might be able to confirm?
Yes, it’s on the bottom of the plug.
Thanks for confirming 
Hi @oscill8ory this is awesome. I was looking into the same.
How is it working on your wall? Does this supports a 2way switch (eg: I have a traditional clipsal 2 way switch off/on stairs light from downstairs and upstairs. Can I do the same using Deta 6912HA Switch?) Which tasmota bin file did you use? Can I use esphome instead to flash? What I understood is VCC is the top hole and GRD in the bottom hole. Which ones are TX and RX?
The electrician I called to hookup a sonoff mini to a normal switch fried 2 devices due to not understanding L-in and L-out properly. So I would like to find out things my self first then call electrician (just because they are certified) and if he/she can’t figure out (I am not very optimistic in this case) I can inform him exactly how.
Traditional electricians are not really uptodate with smart home devices yet (hopefully in near future it will be a norm).