YES JUST DONE 3 of them
Thanks for the feed back, but I ended up going with a couple of shelly1PM’s in the button enclosure.
No flashing required 
I haven’t seen a local (AU) supplier for the Shelly 2.5 yet. There is always the option to order them from the manufacturer in Bulgaria.
I can’t speak to the quality of the deal or anything (haven’t done the research), but some local Shelly stock was posted on ozbargain yesterday: https://www.ozbargain.com.au/node/573973
Those prices look pretty steep comparing to Shelly’s own store.
As an aside, Shelly 1L coming soon.
Looks like a Shelly1 with two switch inputs and no neutral required.
https://shop.shelly.cloud/shelly-1l-wifi-smart-home-automation#407
FYI in my testing, the Shelly 2.5 get seriously hot, I did some temperature measurements as reported in this post.
TLDR: About 30°C above ambient
Is that comparing to an external temp or the shelly internal temp reporting ?
Load of 2x 8W LED down lights, Ambient 25°C
Shelly 2.5 has two outputs, connected one 8W downlight to each output
Temperature stabilised after about 1.5 hours (see screen grab)
Measured external case temp 57°C = 32°C above ambient (well below the 45°C allowed by IEC61010)
Internal temp sensor reports 72°C = 47°C above ambient.
Looks like it’s been deleted 
I’m no expert on them, if this is insufficient or anything, but this exists…
https://public.global-mark.com.au:8443/certificate.nsf/1/951E1E7745B83098CA25860400503024/$file/Attachment.pdf
GMA-508410
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Having a manufacturer name (Allterco) makes it much easier to search their confounded web site. There are certs there for the Shelly 1, Shelly 1PM and Shelly 2.5.
I am thinking on making my pool electrics smart.
I was thinking to install 4 of these below typo GPOs and install a box prior to the GPO to mount the shelly inside which also has a push button momentary. (Link below)
anyone or @sparkydave - any thoughts? what enclose box is suitable for installing a shelly and pushbutton for opening/closing the relay to the shelly.
I assume the double gang GPOs only have 1 input so that is why I am thinking to install separate GPOs to give control over them.
If you (via a licenced electrician) use the double width, single weatherproof outlet (ie: not the slimline one) you should be able to fit the Shelly inside it. It may be a squeeze… There are other options with a lot more space (ie: Clipsal 56 series) but things can start getting expensive. Having said that, if you plan on doing a few in the same location then bundling them all into one 56 series setup might be more cost effective.
They have cable entries on both sides and the bottom. I would look at mounting a suitable momentary push button in one of those. In the past I have used these which are worth not waiting for the slow boat from China, plus better quality and weatherproof.
The electrician should know that the wires running to that switch will need to be the same insulation rating as those for the power circuit (ie: 600/1000V) since they occupy the same enclosure.
Another option is to use one of these (below) which has an auxiliary switch which you can use in place of the pushbutton. However they only come in toggle, not momentary… and only come as a double outlet. (single feed to both sides)
Thanks for that, I just really don’t want to invest in Z-Wave. Might just do the Shelly 2.5 for now seeing as they are certified.
Completely agree with you. I am looking for ZigBee stuff too as I don’t want to invest in Z-Wave wither.
I am take the same thought as you. Now that the Shelly 2.5 is certified, I might start looking into those devices, and also wait for the Shelly 2 Dimmer to be certified if it isn’t already. Ideally I want dimming controls everywhere, not just on/off.
The Stitchy is, but it’s just as expensive as the z-wave ones
Not sure why the aversion to z-wave…
For me, it’s about not introducing another protocol into my environment. I’m happy to use WiFi or ZigBee based products because, well WiFi is everywhere, and I use a Conbee II USB stick for my hue lights. Going z-wave would mean I need to purchase another USB stick which adds to the cost again.
So it’s really about not having too many protocols in my environment.
OTOH if one protocol stops working, some stuff still works on the other protocol(s).
Everyone has their own philosophy… mine is that I would prefer my lighting automation to be one a separate network to the rest. It’s why I have sensors (and a few hue bulbs) on zigbee and lighting on z-wave and other stuff uses WiFi on it’s own network.
That way all the sensor chatter (and 2.4Ghz interference from everything else communicating on that frequency) isn’t affecting anything critical. And at $80-90 for a z-wave stick, it’s not a significant additional cost when you’re already spending thousands.
But you are also introducing another point of failure. There are points for both, and I’m over having over complicated things at home. It gets to the point where you just want things to work.
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