Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

I tried similar switches but did not like them very much. I worry that they won’t behave well when recovering from a Power outage. I am in the blue mountains, and get frequent lightening strikes.

I have settled on using shelly wifi controllers that are embedded behind the switch. They work great, and still offer the ability to purchase stylish switches which suit your interior design.

I have super wifi at home… and prefer it.



If I had the option I would take Zigbee, but I have been forced by lack of options into also using Tuya (wifi) and Shelly (also wifi, but local). I am using Tuya Local to avoid the cloud, but it can sometimes be a bit flakey.

My main issue is range and although I have good wifi coverage throughout the house and my TP-Link EAP is generally very solid, the range advantage offered by the zigbee router network is very attractive to me. Having a few zigbee devices also cuts down the wifi clutter because it operates on a slightly difference frequency.

On the range issue, I have two of the Arlec external lights:
They are very marginal in their wifi reception because they are outside, so are very patchy in whether they will work. If they were Zigbee, I could just drop my spare Sercomm smart plug into a nearby socket and I’d pick them up. I am planning to install a Shelly relay in their wall switch because it is line-of-site and close to the AP - and then I’ll use them as dumb lights and only use the smart features when I want to change the settings and can be bothered standing around for 10 minutes to make contact.

I am using one of those switches you show (assume it is one of the Bunnings/Deta plates) to run a hot water booster and it does the job - via Tuya Local.

1 Like

Yes that worked like a charm and my dropped sensor issue has resolved since I added a new router to my zigbee network. It would seem I had a an area of poor signal strength even though it wasn’t that far as the crow flies (through a wall) to a bulb.

1 Like

Hi all. I received a second Yale assure (Telstra tlock) from liquidate IT today and I’m curious if I should be concerned about this white powder-like substance that is accumulated on the clear (resin I assume?) Over most soldered connections. It seems to wipe off from the one area I tried. It’s not crusty like corrosion I’ve seen before on batteries.

Just letting you @kanga_who that I solved this, I had to follow the post and add the rules to make this work. Once I did that it’s all done! Taking the old ceiling fan for a smart spin –

1 Like

Hi All
Has any one got a gas meter model AMPY 750 or other wise know as LandisGyr Model 750 and has implemented readings. I was going to try esphome and a reed switch but would like to know if anyone has already done this ? (trying to figure what reed switch to use)
Thanks Andrew

found some info here any thoughts

All meters are fitted with a magnet in the last index wheel and hence each meter is pulse retro-fittable while in service by use an External Pulse Module without the need to interfere with the metrology of the meter or the meter seals.

Page 11 of this pdf

So yes an appropriately placed reed switch should work. The sensor half of one like this would be easy to attach;


Be aware that putting any electrical components in your gas meter enclosure without proper intrinsic safety barriers will void your home insurance if the meter catches fire / blows up.

As a trained Hazardous Area electrical installer I can tell you that these things are taken very seriously. The I.S. barriers we install must be done so following important rules. It’s not something for a regular electrician and certainly not a home automation hacker.

I found a nice article about this very gas meter here.


I won’t get into the debate on Hazardous Areas for domestic gas meters as its way above my pay grade.
But below is some points you probably want to consider if you go ahead.

  • Use the reed switch designed for it. The IN z41 link with some detail..
    I have tested some generic reed switches on water and other meters design for pulse sensors with generally poor results.
    The correct designed oem product is likely to raise less concerns than something homemade.

  • You should be thinking about an intrinsically safe barrier. There is some info on the openenergymonitor page.

Edit: forgot to add drawing for intrinsically safe barrier location.


Thanks @tom_l @sparkydave @tinglis1 I will check out those links


Philips Master LEDs finally arrived. Zero flicker using these LEDs and this dimmer. Really nice light from the LEDs (no funny greenish tint). The perceived dimming level is quite small from 100% to 50%, then more pronounced from 50% to 1%. This is due to the LEDs. An incandescent bulb does not show this.

1 Like

awesome, thanks for the update

@tom_l very interesting. How did you find out about these, and where did you buy them? - thanks

i’ve managed to flash tasmota onto the Brilliant Smart Ceiling Fan Controller, and followed your step 1 and 2 but the webUI dose not let me control it.

should the webUI work at this point or does it only work with MQTT?

You mean the Tasmota web UI? In my experience the Tuya based fans cannot really be controlled using the on/off buttons presented in the Tasmota web UI. You would need to either use the console to execute the correct TuyaSend commands, or configure the fan in HA.

yes I did mean the tasmota webUI

I updated from tasmota 9.x.x lite to “11.1.0(tasmota)”

I have discuverd there is 2 models of the Brilliant Smart WiFi Ceiling Fan Controller, Model 99111 and Model 99333
I have Model 99333

im tring to follow this guide by @coffeesnob FitzsTech - Brilliant Smart Fan controller
my remote does work however tasmota has no control over the light or fan with GPIO15 as Tuya Tx

I have a very congested 6-way wall switch right next to a 4-way switch, just under a noggin, so there are a lot of mains wires in the wall cavity, bundled together so it’s quite rigid. I want to automate most of them with simple on-off switches. It’s going to be hard to stuff it with 7 shelly’s. I could probably do 4 dual output Fibaro or Aeotec modules but would be nice if I could find a quad output switch.

I googled around for a quad switch module, and all I could find was an uncertified zigbee module from Aliexpress

I bought a few of these (single, dual and quad channel) and the dimmer module to try them out thinking that I might just use a couple in this one congested location. They are very well priced, the quad channel being about A$25. They work perfectly and are identified by my ConBeeII zigbee ubs stick and integrate straight into HA.

After a discussion with the other half, I decided that since they are not AU certified I won’t use them. Of course these are CE marked so fine to use in Europe, the only difference I can think of is we have higher in wall temperatures in summer. So my questions are:

  • Does anyone know of an AU certified quad output switch like this?
  • What’s actually involved in getting something like this certified?
  • Is there another solution I could use?

I also have on order some Iconic Wiser zigbee mechs which would fit, but they are like $100 ea, and I’ve also read that when you operate the button manually, if the state gets out of sync with the HA front end you have to do two button presses to toggle the switch. This can be fixed with an automation, but hardly ideal.

I haven’t come across any.

Sending one / some to a test lab and paying for the service.

Sound like your best bet is 2 dual switch units. I use Z-Wave for my in-wall stuff so not sure about availability of Zigbee ones.

1 Like

Would the Shelly dual circuits (eg 2PM) work here in a similar fashion? I think the new Shelly Plus range has just received Australian certification too.

There is also an I4 which I haven’t looked at in detail but seems to control 4 circuits.

Yes, they would be fine.

No, these have 4 inputs but no outputs / relays etc. It just gives you the option to control other devices (or pretty much anything you want) via automations. It’s just an input module.

1 Like