Legend. I didn’t know that. I will give that a go when I get my new router.
I bought some Fanco Tuya fans. They work OK, but I’d prefer local control and LocalTuya doesn’t really seem to recognise them. What do i need to check to see if they can be flashed to something else?
Hi all, has anyone had any experience with TAKRINK smart WiFi plugs?
Hey fellow Aussies,
I’ve recently set up my HA server and now starting to research hardware. I’m going to tackle light switches first and interested to hear back from the community here, as to what has been successful/most reliable for them.
I like the look and style of these types of switches.
I see that you can get them in wifi and zigbee? What protocol are you using and why?
How will matter/thread affect wifi/zigbee? Should I choose one protocol over another?
Thanks for your input!
I tried similar switches but did not like them very much. I worry that they won’t behave well when recovering from a Power outage. I am in the blue mountains, and get frequent lightening strikes.
I have settled on using shelly wifi controllers that are embedded behind the switch. They work great, and still offer the ability to purchase stylish switches which suit your interior design.
I have super wifi at home… and prefer it.
regards,
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If I had the option I would take Zigbee, but I have been forced by lack of options into also using Tuya (wifi) and Shelly (also wifi, but local). I am using Tuya Local to avoid the cloud, but it can sometimes be a bit flakey.
My main issue is range and although I have good wifi coverage throughout the house and my TP-Link EAP is generally very solid, the range advantage offered by the zigbee router network is very attractive to me. Having a few zigbee devices also cuts down the wifi clutter because it operates on a slightly difference frequency.
On the range issue, I have two of the Arlec external lights:
https://www.bunnings.com.au/arlec-grid-connect-smart-up-and-down-led-wall-light_p0119823
They are very marginal in their wifi reception because they are outside, so are very patchy in whether they will work. If they were Zigbee, I could just drop my spare Sercomm smart plug into a nearby socket and I’d pick them up. I am planning to install a Shelly relay in their wall switch because it is line-of-site and close to the AP - and then I’ll use them as dumb lights and only use the smart features when I want to change the settings and can be bothered standing around for 10 minutes to make contact.
I am using one of those switches you show (assume it is one of the Bunnings/Deta plates) to run a hot water booster and it does the job - via Tuya Local.
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Yes that worked like a charm and my dropped sensor issue has resolved since I added a new router to my zigbee network. It would seem I had a an area of poor signal strength even though it wasn’t that far as the crow flies (through a wall) to a bulb.
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Hi all. I received a second Yale assure (Telstra tlock) from liquidate IT today and I’m curious if I should be concerned about this white powder-like substance that is accumulated on the clear (resin I assume?) Over most soldered connections. It seems to wipe off from the one area I tried. It’s not crusty like corrosion I’ve seen before on batteries.
Just letting you @kanga_who that I solved this, I had to follow the post and add the rules to make this work. Once I did that it’s all done! Taking the old ceiling fan for a smart spin – neon.ninja
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Hi All
Has any one got a gas meter model AMPY 750 or other wise know as LandisGyr Model 750 and has implemented readings. I was going to try esphome and a reed switch but would like to know if anyone has already done this ? (trying to figure what reed switch to use)
Thanks Andrew
found some info here any thoughts
All meters are fitted with a magnet in the last index wheel and hence each meter is pulse retro-fittable while in service by use an External Pulse Module without the need to interfere with the metrology of the meter or the meter seals.
Page 11 of this pdf https://www.combustioncontrol.co.nz/media/productattach/i/n/instructions_manual_model_750_750002_2_.pdf#page11
So yes an appropriately placed reed switch should work. The sensor half of one like this would be easy to attach;
https://www.altronics.com.au/p/s5157a-spst-surface-mount-security-mini-magnetic-reed-switch/
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Be aware that putting any electrical components in your gas meter enclosure without proper intrinsic safety barriers will void your home insurance if the meter catches fire / blows up.
As a trained Hazardous Area electrical installer I can tell you that these things are taken very seriously. The I.S. barriers we install must be done so following important rules. It’s not something for a regular electrician and certainly not a home automation hacker.
I found a nice article about this very gas meter here.
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I won’t get into the debate on Hazardous Areas for domestic gas meters as its way above my pay grade.
But below is some points you probably want to consider if you go ahead.
-
Use the reed switch designed for it. The IN z41 link with some detail..
I have tested some generic reed switches on water and other meters design for pulse sensors with generally poor results.
The correct designed oem product is likely to raise less concerns than something homemade. -
You should be thinking about an intrinsically safe barrier. There is some info on the openenergymonitor page.
Edit: forgot to add drawing for intrinsically safe barrier location.
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Philips Master LEDs finally arrived. Zero flicker using these LEDs and this dimmer. Really nice light from the LEDs (no funny greenish tint). The perceived dimming level is quite small from 100% to 50%, then more pronounced from 50% to 1%. This is due to the LEDs. An incandescent bulb does not show this.
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awesome, thanks for the update
i’ve managed to flash tasmota onto the Brilliant Smart Ceiling Fan Controller, and followed your step 1 and 2 but the webUI dose not let me control it.
should the webUI work at this point or does it only work with MQTT?
You mean the Tasmota web UI? In my experience the Tuya based fans cannot really be controlled using the on/off buttons presented in the Tasmota web UI. You would need to either use the console to execute the correct TuyaSend commands, or configure the fan in HA.
yes I did mean the tasmota webUI
I updated from tasmota 9.x.x lite to “11.1.0(tasmota)”
I have discuverd there is 2 models of the Brilliant Smart WiFi Ceiling Fan Controller, Model 99111 and Model 99333
I have Model 99333
im tring to follow this guide by @coffeesnob FitzsTech - Brilliant Smart Fan controller
my remote does work however tasmota has no control over the light or fan with GPIO15 as Tuya Tx