(Putting aside whether it is to do with firmware change) Is there a lower price limit in Australia for consumer protection? A complaint to the relevant authority (commerce commission here) may lead to huge fines here.
No but price would be a factor when assessing the expected service life of a purchased good.
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Can’t you buy it from anyone now as the applicant on the certification is Shelly (Allterco Robotics) themselves?
Yes
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My god yes. If clipsal had their zigbee range reasonably priced I would do my entire house. All I want is zigbee switches with tactile feedback.
I’ve been using mercator sparingly but dislike the premade multi-gang switches as they offer no physical response. the individual mechs have been good but expensive and too big to use on a 4-gang plate.
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The solution I use here is one of these but swapping the auxiliary switch for a momentary pushbutton. The momentary pushbutton gets wired to the smart device (ie: shelly) control input. That way you have a local way of controlling the outlet.
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sparky,
I have similar to one of these installed in my kitchen. The middle switch however is an independent control of the oven. The two power outlets are switched independently of this.
So you are saying if I replace the rocker with a momentary switch linked to a shelly that is wired through to the two outlets then I have the switching and monitoring?
I would not have monitoring of the two outlets independently though?
Pat
That’s correct, the momentary button gets wired to the Shelley control input.
No, you won’t be able to switch or power monitor each outlet individually however you can still use the physical outlet switches to turn one side off if needed.
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This says the Shelley has dual independent power monitoring so if you used one of these you would have what I think you are after Shelly 2.5 - Shelly Cloud
The problem is that the double socket outlet only has one ‘input’ which feeds both sockets.
Many years ago this wasn’t the case and each side had it’s own terminations with wire links running across, not anymore.
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Ozgav,
this is what i want but as sparky correctly states. No product available in double power point where there are two separate wire feeds - one for each point.
I guess if i wasn’t worried about wall space I could install two separate single outlet with the 2.5 shelly behind.
Pat
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I like the idea of using the auxiliary switch. I think that’ll be my go to solution now. I have been moving over to Shelly for a while now and they are treating me well.
I used to monitor power usage at the smart plug but that has dropped off significantly since I started using the Iotawatt. I only monitor key appliances such as fridges and freezers these days.
It is amazing/scary how well I can determine what appliances and lights are on when you have power and PF monitoring on every circuit in your house. Some appliances have such an easy to identify power usage profile that I have built automations on it.
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I have been thinking of a method to filter out well known power consumption signatures, as you say they are easy for the humans to spot to pattern but I am not sure sure how you could implement in Home Assistant.
I sort of do this with my oven, it is hard wired so I cannot use a smart plug. However most of the other devices on that phase; microwave, fridge, dishwasher do have smart plugs and my solar inverter meter measures each phase. So I have an oven_power entity which is the phase power minus the appliances. Not 100% but close enough.
Now if I could have a ‘signature filter’ 3kW and 2 minute duty cycle. I could isolated the oven and anything else on that circuit.
Sort of what the Sense Energy Monitor achieves: Sense - Home Assistant
The answer to this is kind of. There’s no device definition (so in the middle of writing one for it).
It uses association groups to link directly to other z-wave devices rather than exposing a switch in HA but it’s not strictly necessary, given the actually control device sits at another switch (is exposed in HA as a switch anyway).
Tony - I finally cracked the secret to the 99333 model Brilliant Smart Fan controller
chip: TYWE1S-IPEX (ESP8266EX) in communicating with the Tuya MCU
Jimmy James / JamesEggleston, thought you might be interested in this one as well.
Using ESPHome (adapt to suit, but it is the UART combination that is important):
substitutions:
devicename: brilliant_fan
friendly_name: Brilliant Fan
name: tuya test
####################################
esphome:
name: ${devicename}
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m
#TYWE1S-IPEX
# Make sure logging is not using the serial port
logger:
baud_rate: 0
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
ota:
# password: "xx"
wifi:
ssid: !secret iot_wifi_ssid
password: !secret iot_wifi_pwd
manual_ip:
static_ip: xx
gateway: xx
subnet: 255.255.255.0
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "Brilliant-Fan Fallback Hotspot"
password: ""
captive_portal:
# Enable Web server
web_server:
port: 80
####################################################
uart:
- id: uart_1
rx_pin: GPIO3
tx_pin: GPIO1
baud_rate: 9600
- id: uart_0
rx_pin: GPIO13
tx_pin: GPIO15
baud_rate: 9600
# Register the Tuya MCU connection
#Tuya component: https://esphome.io/components/tuya.html
tuya:
uart_id: uart_0
# read output for Tuya fan controller from log:
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:033]: Tuya:
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:048]: Datapoint 1: switch (value: OFF)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:054]: Datapoint 2: enum (value: 1)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:054]: Datapoint 3: enum (value: 0)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:054]: Datapoint 4: enum (value: 0)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:054]: Datapoint 6: enum (value: 0)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:050]: Datapoint 10: int value (value: 100)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:048]: Datapoint 9: switch (value: ON)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:050]: Datapoint 7: int value (value: 0)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:056]: Datapoint 8: bitmask (value: 0)
# [13:56:56][C][tuya:068]: Product: '{"p":"q0czoqfxdjynmkgj","v":"0.0.26","m":0}'
#######################################################################
#Tuya Fan: https://esphome.io/components/fan/tuya.html
#Create a fan
fan:
- platform: tuya
name: "Bedroom Fan"
switch_datapoint: 1 #ON, OFF
speed_datapoint: 3
speed_count: 3
# light: #maybe
# - platform: tuya
# name: "Fan Light Switch"
# #dimmer_datapoint: 10
# switch_datapoint: 9
# #min_value: 100
# #max_value: 1000
switch:
- platform: tuya
name: "Bonus Fan Light Switch"
switch_datapoint: 9 #ON, OFF
# sensor:
# - platform: wifi_signal
# name: $friendly_name Wifi Signal
# update_interval: 60s
# - platform: uptime
# name: $friendly_name uptime
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Hey guys, had a question about the Shellys. I’ve got a Shelly1 and a handful of Wago 221 connectors ready to install behind a wall switch (I’m thinking about getting the Shelly plus 1 PM instead for the additional safety features, over voltage , over temp and over power protection). I had a peak behind the light switch (internal wall) and there is no electrical box, just empty space. Will a sparky even touch this? Is this a safety issue? What options do I have in this case.
Hey I’ve had a IoTaWatt for 18 months, it’s awesome but a little dodgy as there is no room in a breaker box for all the current transformers, so you have to nip away the insulation around the two wires to separate them (they are still insulated) and put the CT on. I had a sparky do it for me when I had my box upgraded.
HA, which I’ve just installed however, is a bit confused by the readings, the energy dashboard numbers are all out by a factor of 1000! I’ll figure it out I’ve only started setting it up this week.
Sounds like they are measuring in Wh but you have the unit set to kWh
Gday All
Ive bought a couple of Ikea Tradfri zigbee power sockets. I originally was going to use them for to save standby costs for
- Ducted Gas Heater (Standard power plug in the roof)
- Ducted Evap (Standard power plug in the roof)
While each device is well within the current limit of the switch, upon thinking it over I dont feel safe putting them up in the roof to control inductive loads.
But is there really a danger? They are not switching the load from zero directly, they are bringing the device from Off → Standby. And it get switched on later by the wall mounted controls.
Yeah, I was surprised myself, but that appears to be the norm in Australia. My sparkies have had no issues with just leaving the Shelly devices in the wall. One used electrical tape to cover the connectors, the other one didn’t.
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