what would work with mine is I could turn the dial ready to go but use a smart switch to isolate power and then turn it on when I wanted….
Didn’t go with smart white goods. Have had to replace the fridge, dryer and washer this year though.
Fridge… It’s gonna fridge anyway. Did manage to drop abit of consumption there for a larger fridge compared to the old one. Went from 1.6kwh to closer to 1.2kwh per day. (it’s actually a touch louder than the old one… Quiet, but we never heard the old one.)
Dryer, (not smart) went from an old vented resistance style to a heatpump, little bigger. Don’t actually track the individual power on that, overall usage seems about the same, but the dryer gets used more. (also takes like 3.5hrs…) it does delay start by 1hr increment and also sense dry for early stopping. (keeps the laundry(room) dry unlike the vented one)
Washer, replaced a smaller older front loader, the carbon contactors on the motor had worn right out, it was going to be 1/3rd of the price of a new washer to replace the rods without labour $$s. So new inverter washer. Quick wash is 16mins, normal wash is 1hour, eco wash is 5 hours. I have no idea how that makes sense. Can’t tell you if the 5hr cycle actually saves any power. The 16 min or 1hr cycles are fine. Also has delayed start by 1hr increments.
We have solar, our peak is 3pm to 9pm. Mostly just try not to run stuff at peak.
Oh that’s a nice discovery. How do you set the time value for this in localtuya?
I’ve got a smart dishwasher (LG) and a smart dryer (electrolux).
The dishwasher can’t be turned on remotely so the smarts are purely for monitoring and data in HA.
The dryer can be remotely stopped and started but only if a button is pressed on the dryer after it is powered on each cycle. It’s an enable remote control type button and defaults to off every time.
The electrolux app is also so Extremely flakey that it often fails to connect and trying to stop the dryer seems impossible. This follows it into HA also when using an integration so there’s no good local control.
I have a myzone 3 aircon controller. The myzone app is completely stuffed and fails to connect and respond all the time. It’s actually the reason i got into HA. Someone developed an integration for it and it’s local and reliable. It works 100% of the time and i would recommend it to anyone.
When defining the devices in LocalTuya I add entities for dp_id 9 (countdown) and 38 (relay_status) and also 18, 19 and 20 (though current, power and voltage are already available as attributes of the switch entity). I find that some units also expose dp_id 17 add-ele (this doesn’t seem to be useful in HA); and dp_ids 21-26 (these values never seem to change, so maybe some serial number ?)
To start the countdown, simply set the value of the
When the countdown (in seconds) hits zero, the state of the switch is toggled (on → off or off → on)
1 Like
I have LG thinQ washing machine and dryer integrated into Home Assistant.
I find I get more utility from a Athom/ Kassa/ Meross Smart Plug to give me power/ energy consumption.
Which I can then use in my energy dashboard with my other devices. (Negative costs to run some of my devices is because I’m with Amber Electric)
3 Likes
Thanks I will go through my localtuya devices and do this - it’s a shame I can’t see a way to do this without recreating each device 
What is the relay_status entity achieving?
Yes, it is a royal pain having to totally re-create a device just because of a spelling mistake or to add an extra entity. I appreciate though that it makes the integration a whole lot easier to program.
For my PC191HA’s it contains values “on”, “off”, or “memory” - which i believe tell it whether to power-on in the on, or off state, or to remember whether it was last on or off. Again, something I don’t need - until one day I might 
1 Like
With the Shelly PRO 4PM, would you use one of these in place of an IoTaWATT?
Depends on your preference for connection method. Direct wiring - Shelly PRO, current clamps - IotaWatt.
Also the IotaWatt can monitor more circuits, but has no local display or switches.
1 Like
I’ve been looking at the Shelly Pro line since they were announced, are they suitable for a house main switch board? Apparently, mine doesn’t meet current regulations, it also has asbestos backing so needs replaced, as such wondered if I should consider the Shelly’s.
Currently got an IotaWatt monitoring the main board but would be open to switching to something new, more just so I have a new toy rather than any other reason…
I set up a new switch today and used a number entity for the countdown timer, easy enough.
For the relay state, I used a ‘select’ entity and set it as per the tuya developer page dp_id:
"code": "relay_status",
"dp_id": 38,
"type": "Enum",
"values": "{\"range\":[\"power_off\",\"power_on\",\"last\"]}"
What I got was an entity that I could select off,on or last (as I set up) but it didn’t change the state in the smart life app. What type of entity do you configure that one as?
Yeah, nah. For PC191HA the Tuya website says as you have shown … however I noticed that the actual values reported when setting up the devices in LocalTuya are “on”, “off” and “memory”.
I use a “Select” entity with values “on;off;memory” … though to be honest I can’t remember if I have tried changing any.
Hey guys,
So I’ve got plenty of these Deta Grid Connect light switches installed around my house
https://www.bunnings.com.au/deta-grid-connect-smart-triple-gang-touch-light-switch_p0161014
I do need a couple more but they’ll be going somewhere, where it’s really hard to get a neutral wire to. What’s the latest you guys would recommend that doesn’t need a neutral and that would also match kinda match the Deta light switches?
Also, zigbee or wifi?
iPhone. I had a look at what alternatives there are but I don’t really know enough about networking to know what’s suitable or necessarily how to interpret what they are telling me.
Wifiman from Ubiquiti is pretty good - even gives you a heat-map of wifi strength, which should be relatively easy to understand.
i have a broken lock on my security screen door, and im thinking about replacing it with a smart door lock preferably zigbee based and doesnt cost an arm and a leg.
do you have any recommendations?
Thanks!
Ive only ever seen one. It was on sale recently:
1 Like
thank you!