Nope. I’m flexible. Just want to stop my wife having to turn the kids lights off and on to turn on as she does it manually sometimes. (Sometimes the automation may delay or be to low for her or not right time
. either way need manual. .
You can wire any smart switch in detached mode.
You supply power to the switch and bulb separately without the switch contacts cutting power to the bulb.
Not sure that would comply with the AU/NZ wiring standards as each light (or group of lights on the same circuit) requires an isolation. Unless I’m misunderstanding your intention to bypass the switch by directly wiring to the light.
I asked my electrician the same thing and he was of the opinion “that’s what the circuit breaker is for”.
Is he right?
Dunno, I’m not an electrician.
It infuriates me when a company makes a significant change to a product like this - Big Tech is getting too comfortable with selling a product which they later downgrade.
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Did you find this thread?
Thanks… will have a good look through there. On first glance, there’s a limited amount about fire rated locks but it’s clearly a better place for my question.
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I know this post was awhile ago, but are you still using the stitchy dimmer modules? can two of them fit behind a switch? do you know if they will work in a two switch setup? if the switch is off can you still turn it on from the app/phone/homekit?
No I decided on Shelly due to lower price mostly. It looks like the stitchy has been discontinued, check the MElec website.
Anyway, if you have a typical gyprock wall, yes you’d fit two behind a switch. Yes you can still switch on from the app, that’s what the “switch” connection is for, to signal the state of the physical switch. The device remains powered no matter which position the switch is in.
Anyone have experience or found a mmwave presence sensor. I like the idea of these ceiling mounted zigbee 24GHz sensor, but no way they would be Australian Certified.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005005249827156.html?spm=a2g0o.detail.0.0.5399hOTjhOTjNX&mp=1
I might need to use a usb powered one to see how well they work.
I’ve got one of the ceiling mounted ones waiting for me to test when I get home in a bit over a week.
Not ceiling recessed but AUS stocked. Also at JB Hi-Fi.
https://www.mwave.com.au/product/aqara-presence-sensor-fp2-ac68437
I have a couple of these (also available on AliExpress) which work really well. They run on 12Vdc so you just throw away the power supply they provide and get a locally sourced one which IS certified.
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Thanks Dave. If they’re good enough for you…
Just ordered one of Aliexpress for $41.58 
bit of an aside, but I’ve always wondered how long electronics would survive in an Aussie house roof space.
Well, surprisingly I’ve not had any issues yet after many years of a lot of gear up there.
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They send a message every second which has caused problems on peoples networks if they add a few of them.
I have 2 and haven’t had any issues but not sure I’d add anymore from what I have read.
Shit. I was planning on 11 if the test works out ok.
G’day gang. Can anybody in the know please help me with the following questions related to Mercator Ikuu Zigbee products?
- What’s the difference between Switch Mechanism SSWM10-ZB and Switch Mechanism SSWM? The only thing I can see is that the former requires neutral.
- Does anyone know for sure which of the following Zigbee products act as a router, rather than an end point? There’s a doc here (Do all of the Zigbee products contribute to the mesh? | Ikuü) but possibly out of date?
- Switch Mechanism SSWM10-ZB
- Inline Switch (compatible with momentary press) SISW11-ZB
And any general feedback about Ikuu zigbee gear is appreciated!
Thanks
From the way zigbee and z-wave works, if its a direct powered device like a switch/relay or bulb it is considered a router device, if its battery powered its a end device that connects through the routing device it is able to use to connect back to the gateway you use.
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