Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

nope, might pick one up for myself. if i do ill update here

Got one this afternoon, here you go! Worked first time with Tuya-Convert 2. Model PC288HA

Update to the latest Tasmota after using Tuya-Convert, I used 6.6.0.13 from HERE, and a single press of the button controls Switch 1, a double press controls Switch 2. (Needs firmware 6.5.0.13 or higher for the button presses to work correctly.)

Switch 1 is the bottom point, Switch 2 is the top point. Enjoy!

{"NAME":"Arlec Twin","GPIO":[0,17,0,22,0,0,0,0,0,56,21,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}

There is a list of working devices here.
The twin plug is still missing.
Would be great if you could contribute it.

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I got one of these from Aldi for $50 the other day…

https://www.brilliantsmart.com.au/smart-products/security/smart-cct-security-light/

It’s tuya-based and I’m trying to get it tuya-converted to then put ESPHome onto it.

Curious if anyone else has had a crack?

Already submitted the info 5 mins after my post here :wink:

I did one also for the single plug yesterday, but someone else beat me too it with an odd config that is different to the one I worked out.

Found these on Amazon for $32.55, they’re Tuya based and appear to be exactly the same as the Brilliant ones that sell for $89.

WiFi Smart Power Outlet, Surge Protector with 4 USB Charging Ports and 4 Smart AC Plugs, Remote Control via Smartphone, Compatible with Alexa and Google Assistant
by JinvooAU
Learn more: https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B07K9FWDQH/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_V9.IDbQSGJ25P

Arrived this morning and have an SAA approval number on the back so seem to be certified but I haven’t confirmed.

Update:
Flashed with the original tuya-convert code to tasmota with no problem and used the Teckin SS30 template, then uploaded the esphome .bin file below.

esphome:
  name: powerboard_500a
  platform: ESP8266
  board: esp01_1m

wifi:
  ssid: "your_ssid"
  password: "your_password"

logger:

api:
  password: "your_password"

ota:
  password: "your_password"

binary_sensor:
  - platform: status
    name: "Powerboard 500A"

switch:
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Powerboard 500A Relay 1"
    pin: GPIO4
    inverted: true
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Powerboard 500A Relay 2"
    pin: GPIO13
    inverted: true
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Powerboard 500A Relay 3"
    pin: GPIO12
    inverted: true
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Powerboard 500A Relay 4"
    pin: GPIO14
    inverted: true
  - platform: gpio
    name: "Powerboard 500A Blue LED"
    pin: GPIO0
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Thanks. Dude much appreciated

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those setting up rpi from scratch (tuya-convert 2.0), there is a dependency missing from the pre-req script. do the below to install it.

sudo apt-get install libssl-dev

also dont use apple devices. I used my iphone and it bricked my first switch. then tried with my old android on the second one it worked without any issues. BTW my switches are Arlec (single-PC189HA)

here is my esphome config:

esphome:
name: kitchen_led_strip_plug
platform: ESP8266
board: esp01_1m

wifi:
ssid: “your_ssid”
password: “your_password”

logger:

api:

ota:

binary_sensor:

  • platform: gpio
    pin:
    number: 14
    mode: INPUT_PULLUP
    inverted: true
    name: “Kitchen LED Strip Plug”
    on_press:

    • switch.toggle: relay
  • platform: status
    name: “Status”

switch:

  • platform: gpio
    id: red_led
    pin:
    number: GPIO12
    inverted: true

  • platform: gpio
    name: “Kitchen LED Strip Plug”
    pin: GPIO4
    id: relay

    on_turn_on:

    • switch.turn_off: red_led

    on_turn_off:

    • switch.turn_on: red_led
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I had a first go at ESPHome today and managed to get the Arlec Grid Twin integrated.

Thanks to @kanga_who for the Tasmota template and @cpuram for the ESPHome config for the single.

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Hey guys, I went to aldi today and grabbed two boxes of 3 RGBW bulbs for $19.99 a box. Thats $6.60 a bulb !

flashed with esphome by wiring to the module with a TTL adapter.

theyre the same as the Brillians bulbs for config.

which chip does it use? the esp or the arm based one?

Yes, for electrical safety of a product it is the SAA mark you want to look for. Note that the C-tick is not really electrical safety but rather a communication electrical inference compliancy thing. And for smart switches, how and where products are install is pretty relevant too. IE an Australian roof space is very hot and some electrical devices may exceed safe temperature if installed in a roof space as opposed to a wall box as they might be intended.

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Has anyone seen or tried these wall switches from Brilliant yet? They appear to be an Australian approved smart wall switch. I’m guessing they must be tuya based, like the Brilliant smart plugs: https://www.brilliantsmart.com.au/smart-products/electrical/smart-elite/

There are others who also import these, they are tuya based. Over on whirlpool one person used the Srltech version which I believe has been around for a while and flashed them with Tasmota and used them with HA

https://whrl.pl/RfjWjp

can they be flashed with esphome as well then?

If you can flash Tasmota you can flash ESPhome. Just a matter of working out the configuration file.

Hi,

I am looking to source some automation gear, which will then be installed by a sparky, however I want to ensure that I choose equipment that is going to work.

I live in a place built in the '20’s and its electricals are antiquated. I’m therefore assuming that the wiring within the house will not be the current standard. Would light switches be likely to have both active and neutral routed to them, or is it more likely that the active would come to the switch, and the neutral on the other end of the bulb?

TIA.

Very unlikely that you would have Neutral at the switch.

Thanks for the advice, @tom_l

Has anyone tried using a Shelly RGBW2 to dim 12v downlights?

The downlights are only 12vac so I don’t think it’s illegal to install if it’s not certified, it seems quite safe and good quality anyway, and wouldn’t be as dangerous being only 12v.

Also, since you would only be messing around with 12vac, would you need an electrician to install?

I think these could be a good low voltage alternative for low voltage downlights that I have all over my house. Also it’s dimmable, unlike just a Sonoff which is great.

Edit: The wiring shows you do have to touch 240vac so you’d probably need a sparky if you wanted to keep using the switch.