How annoying!
The serial adaptor should be enough to power it. Just make SURE its at 3.3v!!!
Bluetak is probably not a good idea. You dont want it failing halfway through.
Noted 
thankfully there is a physical 3.3v switch on this unit which is comforting. I did notice you went straight to the VCC instead of 5v to the pin next to where you ground and let that do the conversion. Any particular reason?
Im trying to remember (its been a while) but I think the ESP is 3.3v so i went direct to that to be sure i was powering it correctly. If you have a multimeter you could probably go to the headers. I did try that but was getting some weird readings on the 4 gang. The 3 could be different.
If you go direct to the chip you really cant go wrong. Good luck!!
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Not pretty with them blown tracks. Was that resistor wire coated in peanut butter and candyš¤¤
If you already have a pi 3 you can either go OTA or Serial. You donāt need any external devices.
Live in is highly questionable on that Dave. What load was it under punishment from?
Hey Azza, this is a very interesting concept. I donāt really see many Tasmota conversions wired through a raspberry pi. Perhaps itās a less popular method than it should be? Any helpful links? Iāll have a poke around myself. It would be very nice if OTA was possible on the 4 gang 
OTA is easy to try. Free, quick.
So I finally bit the bullet - at this point I can confirm that resetting the WiFi doesnāt wipe the S5 maxās āmemoryā (thankās @sparkydave). I havenāt had success yet with getting the tokenā¦ Iāve got what I think should be the token (using the Packet Sender method + wireshark) but not working yet ā¦
To get the s5 token from an iPhone I used a backup application that I already had called imazing.
From that I extracted the raw files for the mihome app and followed the instructions on the HA website to get the token.
Try this method:
All you have to do is reset the vacuum wifi (so it creates itās hotspot) then connect your PC to that wifi and run the token grabber program.
With that said, the token I got from my S5 doesnāt seem to workā¦ still tying to get it working myself
Hey Nick, Iāve always been curious how people test hard wire stuff? Is it usually holding power to ESP chips or sacrificing an extension lead for a temporary wired test?
Cheers,
Linton
Did you get a chance to try dismantling the unit?
I need to get my hands on some opening tools as my unit sadly has the newer firmware
Thanks - I knew I had seen that somewhere but couldnāt find my way back to it. My observations:
- Using ārobo_token.exeā is defintely the easiest way
- using PacketSender works too
- it looks like as soon as you re-add the roborock back into the app (Iām using the Roborock app) it refreshes the token to a new one, and so the extracted token is no longer valid.
Wondering if it is just the Roborock app that does that ā¦
Anyway - I should probably stop cluttering this topic with talk about vacuums!
Yes, the front cover pops off fairly easily no tools required. Then from memory you easily access the circuit board.
This is what the board looks like, with what I assume a 4 pins for +ve, ground, tx and rx, but since my knowledge of electronics is basic, I couldnāt easily tell you which is which. At the moment, I have just got it setup using the Tuya integration into Home Assistant, and it works ok. My aim is to get Tasmota on it eventually. Otherwise it lifts my 1.8mx1.8m roller blind easily at the moment.
Guys,
What do people think about approaching the mods to create an Australian/NZ subsection/group in the forums ? This thread is horrible to find anything in and might work better if we have a thread for certified devices and then general threads where people raise problems/ask questions etc - specific to Australian standard/products etc ?
Craig
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Iām quite confused what you are getting at here. But once you have tasmota or esphome on your device you can upload new firmware OTA.
If tuya convert works you donāt even need wires the first time. OTA all the way.
Nick I think @LintHart is asking how to power mains smart devices to test the programming side of things - do you temporarily connect mains, or just power up the micro with low voltage.
Personally I sacrifice an extension lead, noting that is not allowed unless yourāre a qualified sparky for obvious reasons.
I think testing should be as it is supposed to work, so at 240v. But never with anything else like a ftdi connected at the same time.
I have a selection of fairly dangerous leads for such testing. Be bloody careful. Donāt leave it like that when kids or careless people are around, pack it up and put it somewhere kids, pets, wives, stupid people canāt fiddle.
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