i used the following layout when i flashed my one http://www.phatpenguin.com/2018/12/flashing-my-tuya-switches-with-tasmota.html.
Since this one is using TYWE1S , just need to find the same pin to connect (https://usermanual.wiki/Hangzhou-AiXiangJi-Technology/TYWE1S.User-Manual) .
Tasmotizer is a great software to use for the flashing process ( https://notenoughtech.com/home-automation/tasmotizer/)
OK i have sent them a post re a dedicated Aussie/NZ section - lets see if we get a response
Craig
Trying to do it without soldering is harder than with solder in my opinion. It is one of those things where you think it is less work but really it makes it harder.
Your parts list looks right but I would add a soldering iron and solder, you will need it later anyway.
To flash these, you actually use 5v, not 3.3v, just make sure you supply it at the right place (while the esp uses 3.3, the daughter board is actually fed 5v so it is easy to supply 5v). Some one has written a guide for you here though:
I followed this and it worked a charm!
Hey Michael, thanks for the input. Going to the 5v header would be one less thing to try and solder on too
My box of goodies arrived today from Jaycar and i did end up going for a soldering iron. I see a brilliant fan controller in my future and I’m quite certain I’d need it for that too.
Has anyone tried flashing this?
I would try this but my soldering skills aren’t on point. If someone was willing to 3d print the programming adapter linked to earlier for a reasonable price, I would definitely buy one. Have a look at some of the quotes provided by various 3D printing companies I can quickly find would make it relatively expensive.
Hey All,
Made some progress with my first flash of a Deta quad gang light switch.
I got Tasmota on but I guess my wifi settings didn’t take because it doesn’t seem to be on my network after a reboot.
I was wondering If the general consensus may be that I can substitute ‘the button’ with GPIO0 to ground and follow the Tasmota FAQ instructions:
If you have a device with a button and the button is configured as a component in the Tasmota settings (e.g., GPIO0 - Button1), you can try pressing the button to force the device into Wi-Fi configuration mode with 4 short presses of the button.
Thought I’d ask before I do something bad and accidentally fry if. I guess I can always reflash too.
Cheers
Linton
Sorry for the delayed reply.
Yes, flashed with Tuya Convert. Now just trying to ‘finesse’ the Tasmota template, but otherwise working. Touch the button and relay responds etc.
Would prefer to do in ESPHome but that can come later.
The $24 version (3 Gang) (same product/item code but branded Useelink) that I bought and flashed is back in stock
The left ‘button’ is the bottom and has two LEDs. White for status and a more dim blue LED for WiFi (I’m guessing, nothing in the documentation)
Can these switches be used for bathroom heat lamps? I’m guessing the the heat lamps draw too much, if so, what are people using?
Depends on the size and number of heat lamps - but you would be pushing it as these are rated at 3amps normally.
I personally intend to set mine up with a seperate contactor - so the contactor which is a 240v AC Zero Crossing SSD would accept the signal from the switch as a relay enable signal and would then switch the higher current from a seperate feed - fairly easy to get wired in - and Sparkeys all understand about using contactors for higher loads
Craig
In fact reading the spec sheet it appears that they only support 300w per switch. So no for heatlamps directly controlled.
Interesting that it does not need a neutral wire - this could come in very handy for me as we have besser block walls and no neutral lines.
Craig
Hey @giggs & @IamDan,
Sorry for continuing to call you out on this but I have a bit of a doozy.
So I have successfully flashed my unit and configured. All working great when running on 5V.
Hassio integration all good.
Reserving judgement, I put it all back together and thought I’d test it in a faux hardwired environment before I called the sparky out.
Hooked up the neutral and live wire using a sacrificed extension lead. Centre LED came on for a moment and then nothing.
I was also having trouble getting it going again on 5V at all until I grounded out GPIO0.
Device booted as if it had been reset. Re-configured it fine.
It’s now going again but clearly i’ve done something wrong. I can power cycle it on 5v and it will hold the configuration.
So ultimately i’m wondering if you might have any insight into how i managed to clear the memory and stop it from booting “that other time”?
Cheers,
Linton
Just bought an Arlec 4 Outlet Smart Powerboard PB4KSHA from Bunnings - no luck with Tuya Convert. Must be using new firmware…
@LintHart sounds strange. Sorry if this is a dumb question but when you say you configured it what did you do? Did you add the template?
I did 
I configured wifi and MQTT along with that template
I can toggle in the tasmota UI and in HA via MQTT. LEDs come on and off as expected behind where buttons would be.
But the template and all other configuration obviously disappeared when the chip reset somehow. When I hit GPIO and it booted, the tasmota ssid reappeared
did you end up soldering the jump wires on? Did you leave a dob of solder that may be shorting to another pin?
I did solder them. I cleaned it up as much as I could but maybe there is something catching on it.
Interesting update, I left if connected on power for a while, came back to it and there was no light on the board.
Same GPIO0 jump to wake it up and we’re back to square one.
hmm, its got me buggered 
When it is online are you able to watch the console and see whats going on? You may even need to reflash.
Have you had a read through the troubleshooting docs?
https://tasmota.github.io/docs/FAQ/
Careful, look at the Q&A here, it suggests you need neutral for these to work.
https://www.amazon.com.au/Useelink-Control-Compatible-Assistant-Approved/dp/B082QS8DTC/ref=pd_sbs_60_1/357-2473787-5775762?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B082QS8DTC&pd_rd_r=77303341-c883-45f7-b3ed-695b99322b42&pd_rd_w=PRmVy&pd_rd_wg=PsMSi&pf_rd_p=93ba964f-d1ad-4a38-b342-cc4dded9b2c2&pf_rd_r=CTB5MRK4RFDP9Z5S3VTK&psc=1&refRID=CTB5MRK4RFDP9Z5S3VTK