If it was mounted in the wall you may not hear this. I have z-wave switches which can be heard when bench testing, but can’t be heard when fully installed in the wall.
3A @ 230V is actually 690W (leaving out power factor for simplicity, OR 586.5W with an estimated 0.85 p.f. for a motor), which IS enough for a fan.
Good point about the click probably not being so annoying when the switch is installed. It may be tolerable, though i don’t think it will be completely noiseless - will try sometime.
As for the max load, it seems that I can’t count to two. 3A i’ve got has 300Wt max load, not 30 as i thought. I must have confused them with broadlink TC2s.
The only remaining problem will be the neutral wire.
One way around this is to install the device above the ceiling (as long as it’s not going to get too hot) and use the switch wires (in the wall) as the control wires to the devices input. this way a neutral wire can be run in the ceiling to the device without needing to run it down the wall. Obviously if you have a house with cyprock walls then it shouldn’t be much harder to get that neutral down to the switch location, but here in WA we have double brick and often there is no conduit to the switch, so it can’t be done without a lot of mess.
Yep fair point. I’m in WA too and unfortunately it is a townhouse and the ceiling is a concrete slab 
the conduits are too tight to run another wire (not impossible, but somewhat difficult). I’ll park it for now, probably will just use Ikea’s TRÅDFRI globes (finally they made their way to wa) but will keep an eye for a good solution for when the time comes to flip. What i like about this kind of switches is that they have a very intuitive manual override. Those ceiling mounted boxes usually assume last state, so if the controls are.l dead it would be hard to manually control the lights. What i probably should be looking at in a long run is DIN rail mountable smart switches with just a control wire going to the wall button. I know there are a few on the market in Europe but probably not in Oz yet. Or something from KNX world if i go properly crazy about this 
The way I did things in my last place which I was renting (so no wiring changes) was to use Yeelight globes and Xiaomi wireless buttons. The wireless buttons were stuck to the light switch plates with velcro dots and the switch left on. I used motion sensing for light automation with override control using the Xiaomi buttons. If for some reason HA was down, the lights could be operated using the light switch
The 3A wall switches are indeed noisy even when mounted. Tested them in the showroom.
There is a small caveat though. When you setup the app etc, it will ask you to update the software - DON’T. This will install the patch from Tuya making it impossible to flash.
You don’t even need the app… I have flashed 10 tuya devices now and never had the app. I just use tuya-convert with the devices straight out of the packet
Wish i’d seen this before. I just got one to try it out and went through the whole setup before i read about tuya-convert.
I have flashed 4 of the bunnings brilliant smart plug tuya devices without using the app.
They went straight from the box to being flashed with tuya-convert. I flashed them all with esphome and haven’t had any issues with them.
I’ve tried a few Bunnings stores in SA now and none of them have stock anymore, so not sure if they are getting more or if these aren’t going to be back.
When they are in sale, you can get a 4 pack of switches with power monitoring from Kogan for $80… Same price per unit as the Brilliant ones from Bunnings but better
These ones?
They seem to be on sale right now … $79 for 4!
Edit: a few hours later, it is $69 now!
Does this mean it covers ALL of the included sonoff or only those imported by the applying importer?
theres a guy here in the forums selling the zb2mqtt sticks pre flashed in 3d printed enclosures, should fit your bill
That’s the ones, I bought two packs of them. I’ve already flashed one set with ESPhome and they work great., haven’t opened the second box yet…
As I mentioned above, don’t even get the SmarterHome (Tuya) app, you don’t need it.
Any idea if these kogan or brilliant smart plugs are ok with an inductive load?
They will be fine. The thing that changes with an inductive load is the current vs power due to the power factor. Both the Brilliant and Kogan plugs are rated to 10A so as long as you load is below that, they will be fine.
Hi @sparkydave, just to confirm as long as the DIN rail mounted relays in the switchboard are correctly specified (suitable voltage and current ratings) and installed by a licensed electrician that is legal in Australia, the ELV driver side of the relays (I’m using 12v) doesn’t need special certification?