Correct. The legality there is then on physical separation of the LV and ELV wiring. The electrician should be able to arrange things for you such that it complies.
Thanks, physical separation shouldnāt be too big a problem as Iām planning to use these DIN rail bases with a 10A DPDT relay to switch both active and neutral, the 12V coil terminals are at one end of the base and all the 240V connections are at the other end.
yep, that will be fine, however the wiring from your control device to those 12V relay coil terminals also needs to kept away from the 240V wiring inside the switchboard. All doable
Thanks. Iāve been looking for a plug type version with power monitoring (currently using POW2s). Looks like Iām going to have to learn how to use Tuyaconvert.
Found the Tasmota device template: https://blakadder.github.io/templates/kogan_smarterhome.html
I used ESPhome. I can post the config if you want it. I feel itās better than Tasmota but up to you
Yes, please, that would be very nice. Iāve just ordered a pack of the Kogan smart plugs and plan to flash them with ESPHome.
Yes please Dave.
A$$holes! I just purchased another 4 pack earlier in the week for $79. $20 each is still a bargain for power sensing.
If you would like to use Tasmota after flashing using Tuya-Convert, here is the config I use;
@exxamalte and @tom_l here is my ESPhome code for the Kogan plugs. One thing to note is that there are two values that need to be adjusted to calibrate the voltage and current readings (and thus to give an accurate power value) which are the ācurrent resistorā and āvoltage dividerā numbers (I have put comments next to them below)
esphome:
name: kogan_plug_1
platform: ESP8266
board: esp8285
wifi:
ssid: 'your_wifi_name'
password: 'your_wifi_password'
manual_ip:
static_ip: your_desired_device_ip
gateway: your_lan_gateway_ip
subnet: 255.255.255.0
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Web Server (optional)
web_server:
port: 80
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
ota:
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin:
number: GPIO0
mode: INPUT_PULLUP
inverted: true
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Power Button"
on_press:
- switch.toggle: relay
- platform: status
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Status"
switch:
- platform: gpio
id: green_led
pin:
number: GPIO13
inverted: true
restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
- platform: gpio
name: "Kogan Plug 1"
pin: GPIO14
id: relay
icon: mdi:television
restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
sensor:
- platform: hlw8012
sel_pin:
number: GPIO12
inverted: true
cf_pin: GPIO04
cf1_pin: GPIO05
current:
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Current"
unit_of_measurement: A
voltage:
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Voltage"
unit_of_measurement: V
power:
id: kogan_plug_1_wattage
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Power"
unit_of_measurement: W
current_resistor: "0.00087" ### HIGHER VALUE GIVES LOWER WATTAGE
voltage_divider: "2030" ### LOWER VALUE GIVES LOWER VOLTAGE
change_mode_every: 8
update_interval: 5s
- platform: total_daily_energy
name: "Kogan Plug 1 Daily Energy"
power_id: kogan_plug_1_wattage
filters:
- multiply: 0.001
unit_of_measurement: kWh
time:
- platform: homeassistant
id: homeassistant_time
Jeez, they have the 4 pack of bulbs on sale as well. Iād love to know the config to get these to work after flashing with Tuya-Convert, using MQTT
Thanks heaps Dave. I have a mulitmeter and 3x 60W incandescent lights so the calibration should be easy.
Received another batch of the Kogan smart plugs this morning and flashed them with tuya-convert no problem, just donāt connect them to the Tuya app as theyāll update the stock firmware which stops tuya-convert from working.
Thanks for the warning. Mine should be arriving Tomorrow.
I just found another Aussie site yesterday which has a few cheap(er) z-wave items. Still not the crazy cheap that they have in the US but not bad. Personally I prefer powered (ie: not battery) devices so that they also act as repeaters but if you donāt mind battery devices, they have some cheap(ish, for z-wave in Aus) motion / light sensors.
Also, zwave.com.au are having a sale at the momentā¦
I know z-wave is more expensive than most people would like but from my experience they are faster than wifi to respond to commands and my z-wave network has been rock solid so Iām pretty happy
@sparkydave sounds like you have similar setup to me with aeotec nano zwave behind wall plate combined with clipsal saturn 4000. Did you use momentary mechs or toggle? The reason I ask is I have 2 of them with toggle switches that donāt work the way I want them too. If I turn the light off with zwave then I have to push the button twice to turn it on at the switch. Do you have this problem?
I ditched my Z-Wave stuff around 12mths ago and switched to using the OpenMQTTGateway with cheap RF stuff for the opposite reason to what you have said - I was getting sick of having a slow to respond Z-Wave network needing maintenance and healing, and found cheap RF stuff from Banggood and the like did a equal, or in many cases, superior job for a fraction of the price.
Iāve got about 10 RF motion sensors around the house with 9v batteries that last close to a year, and they cost $5 each. Far better than $50-$80 for Z-Wave stuff. Just my experience, however.
If you need wall switches, thatās a different story now I guess, I have WeMo wall switches, but you canāt get them any longer.
Any links?