Many thanks.
Thanks for this info , as a result just picked up 10 plugs and 6 window switches for $150 , now waiting to see if I can get a bulk deal 
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I have eight of the door sensors if you want some. I couldnāt get enough so I have replaced everything in my house with Visonic MCT340eās. I also now have installed an IotaWatt so donāt need so many plugs.
Hi all,
Just a bit of a PSA, and also a question;
If anyone is planning on buying the Brilliant Smart Dimmer Mechs (Prod code 20967), note that the newer revisions can currently not be flashed using Tuya-Convert.
I bought these in the past and had no issue, but the most recent ones I purchased (Marked 2020-23) will not flash. So it seems the only way to load alternative firmware is by opening them up and soldering to the UART pads.
Secondly - has anyone manually flashed this this this unit (or other Brilliant devices) before? Iām trying to find out the pads:
What makes it difficult to trace out is that the TYE2S ESP moduleās back (which has the TX/RX/IO0) is soldered flat against the back of the board pictured.
If someone can help me identify the unknown 3 pins, or knows the pattern Brilliant usually follows, Iād be very appreciative.
That does look awkward! Do you have a multimeter with continuity function? It might be easiest to ābeep outā the contacts just by checking for continuity between each pad and the pins on the module - if theyāre accessible. Can you get a photo of the other side?
I didnāt āneedā them lol , but at the price ā¦
only use the plugs for switching stuff ( replaced wifi ones that I couldnāt flash).
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Thanks for your response Agittins.
Unfortunately, the rx/tx/io0 pads arenāt on the regular contacts in the image shown below (from a different angle).
They are circular pads on the back of the module, so theyāre sitting inside a non-accessible SMD-solder-sandwich. See the orange dots in the below diagram:
Oh, bugger! Sorry, I was thinking of the generic ESP8266 modules, not the āall under a canā tuya ones - my bad.
You might be able to identify TX by connecting your FTDIās RX pin to each of those three pins in turn, and see if one of them sends you anything when the module powers up. You might also be able to identify which is GPIO0 by tying each of those three to ground in turn (via a 4k7 resistor, perhaps), and seeing which one(s) cause the module to not work (ie, go into flashing mode).
The ones you already have and have flashed (assuming they use the same board) could be helpful, as you could know whether or not it should send you bootup messages on TX or not, and could probably get them to talk to your FTDI more predictably. shrugs
So bad, and good (ā¦but mostly bad news).
During the testing process, I managed to short some contacts and destroy one of the units.
At that point, I grabbed out the heat-gun and removed the TYWE2S from the board it was soldered to.
It turns out that the IO0 pad is not connected to anything 
Is it possible to get an ESP8285 into programming mode without access to IO0?
Unfortunately no it is not. Can you reach the pad on the module?
Just got a set of the V2 Kogan plugs (with USB). What a mission trying to open them! havenāt cracked into it yet as Iām trying not to completely destroy the thing. I remember seeing some photos recently of one open but canāt find them now. Anyone got a photo they can share please?
I have a Couple of the Kogan power monitoring plugs that have failed. I have opened it up and desoldered the Tuya TYWE3S chip from the main board. Is it possible to program these and use them as a ānormalā ESP8266? Eg ESPHome
I donāt see why not. They may only have a 3.3V supply though. The 5V regulator is external to the ESP.
They are an ESP8266 chip. (actually 8285 I think)
Bummer. Nah the side that has the IO0 pad is flat-smd-soldered to the board behind it, so itās not accessible without fully desoldering with a heat-gun (which is very hard on this module non-destructively).
I guess my only hope is if the tuya-convert developers are somehow able to overcome the new PSK identity measure described in This Wiki Page
Hey Jason - did you got IotaWatt recently (i.e during COVID), or prior?
Hey Chris, during COVID mate, only took three days from US to land in Perth and then five weeks for Australia Post to get it to Brisbane 
Oh wow (the first bit ā¦!) Did you go CT clamps from them and āJaycarā power supply(s)?
Ok all, so I really wanted the Kogan Moon Lamp and quotes I got to 3d print the globe were crazy. I bought the Kogan one and today cracked it open and flashed it with ESPhome. Now working nicely in HA! 
My method of cutting into it was a little rough but I knew it would be hidden and easy enough to fix up at the end.
I just used the same code as the Kogan LED strip as a guess and got lucky!
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I did go with the CTās from them. I bought the reference supply from them but used an old Raspberry Pi supply I had.
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