Can anyone provide instructions on how to flash the Deta Smart Fan Controller hardware with Tasmota?
I have tried soldered connections but I suspect I’m doing it wrong.
gk368 can you expand on your method using stapler pins? That sounds like a handy shortcut that I would like to be aware of…
Any chance you can expand on that procedure?
Has anyone found any certified outdoor power outlets? The only one that looks like it’d work is the Sonoff, but it isn’t RCM certified…
Looks like it is getting harder and harder to flash Tasmota/ESPHome on the cheaper wifi devices now available.
Are there any power sockets still for sale which are an easy OTA flash?
Is there any other type of wifi devices which are reasonably priced and easily incorporated into HA for local (non-cloud) control or are the Tuya-based ones all there is?
See:
Confirming - just bought 2x BrilliantSmart GU10 RGB+W GU10 bulbs (20888) from Officeworks today - successfuly reflashed using tuya-convert.
I got a 5V power supply and connected them up to the header pins that normally connect into the fan controller rear housing. Needed to use a 5V 2A power pack as those 3.3/5v Arduino PSU’s can’t provide sufficient power to start up the entire circuit board. Top left was ground, top right 5V.
I got some normal male headers cables, and bent the pins and then used bluetack to press them into the TXD/RXD tracks on the side of the ESP chip. If you open up putty, and power on the board you will get gibberish on the console, so you at least know the pins are contacting properly.
I click Upload on Tasmotizer at this point.
With the board powered, get another set of male header cables, and touch them to GPIO0 and RST to ground. GPIO0 is 4th pin up from the bottom on the right, RST is the top pin on the left. Remove RST, and after 2 seconds remove GPIO0. If the planets are correctly aligned, Tasmotizer should start to flash the board. It took me about 10 goes, as for the most part I wasnt sure if I even had it connected up right.
If you don’t have any luck finding any, I imagine you could get a sparky to install a normal IP-rated GPO on the outside, and wire it via a smart wall switch inside (since you will be controlling the load via HA it won’t matter where the switch is, presumably). Some other options were discussed previously such as having a box large enough to mount a switch module inside with the socket. Have a search of the thread for details 
Elegant solution. I can’t believe it didn’t occur to me.
Thank you for the advice!
I used to use something like this to add outdoor smarts, chucked it under my deck.
https://www.bunnings.com.au/excalibur-6-outlet-outdoor-safety-box_p4360215?gclid=Cj0KCQiA6Or_BRC_ARIsAPzuer8osI-RwECdLVnt7yh_Epp3PvC8atEGgUFCi8k6rneewJpogb7fMecaAnBqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Hi all,
I have a quick question about neutral wires in house wiring…
I am really unsure atm about how to go about setting our house up for smart lighting. We have a combination of LED and ‘regular’ light fittings, ranging from single to several two-way setups. The house wiring ranges from ~30 years old to very new (less than 12 months). I’ve taken off several lighting switch plates (with mains off) and I can see that there is definitely a neutral behind the switch panel, but (in all the cases I’ve looked at) the neutral is not actually wired into the switch itself. The switches themselves only have a red and white wire running to them.
Does this mean I’m pretty much stuck with having to use no-neutral smart switches and dimmers?
I’m not intending to do any of this myself, I just need to try and work out what hardware is best fro use
case.
Cheers, R
That’s fine. It’s normal for non-smart switches to only switch the active. What matters is whether there is a neutral wire there that a smart switch could be connected to.
Instead of installing the smart switches behind the switch plates, they could be installed in the ceiling (near the fittings) where there must be a neutral. As long the switch can connect to wifi, it doesn’t matter where it is with a neutral wire.
As long as your roof space does not exceed the environmental ratings of the device. Unfortunately monitoring my roof space revealed that the temperature sometimes exceeds the 40°C max temp rating of the Shelly 1.
Does that include the temperature rise due to the heat generated by the measuring equipment? (with apologies to Dr Heisenberg 
)
I’ve minimised self heating to less than a degree. Unfortunately the limit was exceeded by more than that and summer has only just begun.
Exceeded briefly, perhaps not enough to worry about? Short exposure above the temp limit may be OK.
That’s a highly compressed time-scale. The visible excursions lasted 3 and 5 hours respectively.
I’ll wait and see what the rest of summer reveals but at the moment I am prepared to risk it.
Also care is a priority when the other option is burning down the house.
Yeah, placement away from flammable materials will be a priority.
