Just don’t use them with something like a higher power device demand like a diashwasher or washing machine.
They cut out for some reason and turn the device off. I ended up using some TP-Link ones for those devices and use these on my pond / yard lights.
Thanks @sparkydave that did the trick. Worked first pop. I did end up having to release RST prior to GPIO0 to get it into programming mode.
It’s now on ESPHome - Lovely! So much easier.
I have a question, which I can’t easily find an answer for… Is there an equivalent switch that’s electrically certified for AU that has a two way function on it (i.e. hall-way light scenario) that you know of?
This thread is HUGE! So apologies if this has been asked before.
I’m about to build a new house and would love feedback on what you would do with regards to smart switches and other wired devices.
The goal is to reduce the need for Zigbee or wifi devices where possible, have as much compatibility with HA as possible but also have a solution that can operate (with separate systems of course) without HA so that it isn’t an issue down the track when I sold the house.
The problem always is knowing where you need stuff. If I’d never got interested in home automation, I’d never have known that I needed power and signal for my blinds!
However If you run cat5e/6 everywhere you might need signal, its a start.
@dormani
I have a Kogan unit working on Tuya Local with power monitoring.
I followed this video (pt 3) except actually put in proper values for the DPS. I don’t remember where I found it the other night, but the values to use were 1,18,19,20 and you get the switch, with current, power and voltage as attributes of the switch.
Thanks for the reply. You mention following a video. Could you please provide the link. I am not at all savvy with these types of integrations so need all the help I can get to have something up and running. I do like these Kogan plugs in particular the 5v usb outlets.
Thanks once again.
Get neutral wires run to your light switches. This makes it easier to have smart devices there later. Yes you can ‘no neutral’ smart devices but having a neutral opens up the selection hugely.
Whoops! I’ve edited the original post with the link now. I found that at the step around 06:40 it took a while to get a full response returned. I’m still not sure if I changed something (besides the region) to get it to work or if it was just a case of just needing to wait for something to update on the back end.
But once I got the token, it was pretty smooth sailing.
There are a number of different methods online for getting this token (I think mostly using the tuya-cli, but after failing at all of those methods, this one seemed straightforward, and actually worked.
Thanks I have that one on the list.
Any recommendations on switches to have installed at the get go? Australian certified I guess is the challenge?
I like using Z-Wave gear fitted behind the standard switch plate (although in some places I went for momentary Clipsal 4000 series…warning on those: very pricy!!).
My Z-Wave network is super fast, I love it (none of the z-wave devices are battery powered so they all act as repeaters). Some others have had different experiences, probably due to battery devices I imagine.
“get go”? This is a thread about Australian gear.
Anyway, I second/third/fourth having a server/router/modem bay/cupboard/closet/room with the highest CAT cable you can afford to critical points in the house, sometimes two points in a room, but always where there will be AV devices.
I have ranted several times about the woeful routers provided by ISPs and urge you to look at an open source alternative, Pfsense or OPNsense, I prefer the latter, and using separate WiFi access points. A state of the art router with separate wifi which can be upgraded if/when needed.
I have the Kogan switch running in HA after integrating Tuya Local. As far as power, voltage etc., nothing is coming through. I am aware that a new firmware version took place mid last year on the Kogan device. Looks as though this will be my issue having purchased these units within the last 3 months. When were your plugs purchased?
Watching this closely. I was just about to buy 4 more to use specifically for power monitoring, will be a crying shame if Tuya Local can’t monitor these attributes any longer!
To clarify, I am using localtuya too and my plugs are probably 1.5yrs old
For anyone interested, I have installed one of these. Works really well with localtuya, dimming also works well in general.
Slight humming coming from the switch itself but nothing audible unless you put your ear right up to it. So have bought some more and plan on installing in next few weeks.
I got these Arlec fans installed yesterday and spent most of last night figuring out how to get localtuya set up, and then configured in Home Assistant. Things seem to mostly be working now.
For the light entity set ID to ‘9’, Brightness to ‘10’, Color Temperature to ‘11’ the upper/lower brightness settings to 5/100 (below 5 and the light will turn off despite the state being ‘on’, which isn’t nice).
For the fan entity set ID to ‘1’, fan speed to ‘3’, ‘low’/‘medium’/high’ to ‘1’/‘3’/‘4’ (or edit the fan.py file as @tinglis1 suggested first, or change the ‘4’ to ‘6’ in .storage/core.config_entries).
I’m still having a few minor annoyances at the moment and will see what I can do with the localtuya implementation when I find some time:
And all going well it would be good doing something useful with the built-in fan modes (DPS 102: “normal”, “sleep”, “breeze”) and timer (DPS 103: “off”, “1hour”, “2hour”, “4hour”) if anyone has thoughts about how to best incorporate it.
“From the get go” isn’t unusual language here in Aus.
I’ll be using an enterprise grade router and probably Ubiquiti for wifi. Cat 6 everywhere with a centrally located comms cabinet. I do that stuff for a living so it’s the easy part.
Which brand of smart switches to use here in Aus was the main thing I wasn’t sure about. Sounds like Z-Wave is the go.
Which Kogan plug? This one https://www.kogan.com/au/buy/kogan-smarterhome-smart-plug-energy-meter/
Or the one with the USB plugs?
Agree with you there. 
Mine are just used in automations to turn off charging of devices; which is very helpful, and to help extend the signal. Had no issues with them doing that. For higher end appliances why risk it?
The plugs I have an issue with are those with usb outlets. Not sure if there is a firmware issue viewing power useage data with the ones without the usb outlets Kogan branded.