Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Followed link, did everything very carefully and what do you know…has now brought everything into Home Assistant with out re-flashing etc. Have another 6 devices now available.
Best news I have had for months.
Great find Patrick!!

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On point number 2, I use an Aeotec 40 Amp Smart Switch (SmartHome - Aeotec Z-Wave Heavy Duty Smart Switch) that has worked flawlessly on a 20 Amp spa circuit that usually draws upwards of 3500 watts when running full tilt, and more recently on a kitchen stove (I had to replace the stove so I moved the switch from the spa to behind the stove to stop my little ones hands randomly turning knobs on the front and turning it on). It does power monitoring, temperature, etc… and is a really robust unit.
I plan on getting more of them to integrate into my Hot Water System (in conjunction with solar array output monitoring and switching capability based on peak generation), and replace the one I stole from the spa, but for anyone who doesn’t already have one, there are two big things to consider…
1.) They aren’t cheap - around $150 per unit
2.) They run on ZWave… so unless you have an existing ZWave network, you’ll have to outlay extra to integrate the network into Home Assistant.
Otherwise… I really cannot fault the device.

Hi i was dumb.

I meant to say separately on different outlets. So it’s one for heater and one for kettle. I keep reading people plugs failing on spikes on startup on these appliances. Fridges seem to spike and kill some smart plugs.

Hi DarkPinnacle,

I was looking at purchasing multiple triple double and single gang light switches from Oz Smart things and was wondering if the light switches have inbuilt power monitoring?

This would sway my purchase choice from the light switches to the Shellys if they did not have power monitoring.

Has anyone come accross a smart light switch similar to these that have in built power monitoring?

No they don’t. But I don’t really see the point in that just for light switches.

Since you would know the power rating of the lights connected, you could just have HA calculate the power usage whenever that light is ON.

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… and there is a HACS repository that might help you with that (haven’t tried myself yet): GitHub - bramstroker/homeassistant-powercalc: Custom component to calculate estimated power consumption of lights and other appliances

That isn’t even needed for this use case since a simple utility meter integration could be setup based on there being a known power consumption whenever that light is on…but, that custom component does look pretty cool!

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Yes, correct. I was already thinking ahead of using dimmers or dimmable smart bulbs.

you need to check first how th zone dampers work - assuming they are 204v then you can use a Sonoff Pro R3 which incorporates4 relays on it and can be flashed with esphome or Tasmota.

Craig

you need to check first how the zone dampers work - assuming they are 240v then you can use a Sonoff Pro R3 which incorporates 4 relays on it and can be flashed with esphome or Tasmota.

Craig

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Hey, sorry for the extremely long delay in my response, I had taken a break from tinkering with my Home Assistant setup, I never got far with this. in face from memory i have semi bricked my panel heater, did anyone get this working? I might add it back to my list of things to look into.

No problem, I never got it working directly in HA either, only via google assistant integration which is only good for on/off.

These heaters have lasted a couple of winters now so I may just start to look at other models for next year. I picked up a goldair from bunnings for another room recently which integrates nicely.

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I had a similar aircon zone setup and have a working prototype. I just haven’t got around to permanently installing it behind my control panel.

My dampers are 24vac and Contorlled using standard wall switches.
I purchased a sonoff 4ch pro to control them. I modified mine so that I could wire the existing 4 wall switches to the sonoff buttons. I also made a header for the led for indication.

I then used esphome to create the local control.
I’ll share my esphome code later when I am near a computer.
The logic worked as follows:

  • if any manual switch changes then all zone set as per the manual switches.
  • if any any zone is changes via HA then the indicator led is turned on.
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what sort of integration did you need to use for the goldair, i might have a look into it too

Hi

Just setting up my smart home stuff, can these be flashed with Tuya-Convert? or a way to control them locally
https://brilliantlighting.com.au/product/smart-wifi-dimmer-mech-e94960

Hoping too put two of them in a 4 gang to control dimmable downlights(wife protection), but also be able to control via HA

Yes! I converted one of these Brilliant Smart Dimmer Mechs (and their RGB Gardenlights)
I used Tasmota and MQTT for a year or so, now using ESPhome to eliminate the need for an MQTT broker.

I decided to try my Kogan with usb smart plug on my dads heater to see if would handle it,
it’s 2000w max heater (avg 1800w) and of course the plug is 2400 @ 10a rated. Well it seems the plug is dead after 4 hours of run time. I don’t know how else to test it as the config was running beforehand.

It powers on and i can see it in esphome. The relay works because you hear it click. HA reports in on and receiving 240v but output is 0w 0a. So it seems what ever it is that provides power out from the relay is dead. I was wondering if something like this would kill the plug as my dumb post before and it seems so.

I did want to monitor that so i could calculator usage and power costs.
Live and learn i guess.

That should be covered by warranty given that the heater rating it below that of the Kogan plug. That said, I’m not surprised that another Kogan plug has failed while being used within it’s advertised limits.

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I recently fixed one of these, the 470u/10V electrolytic in the LV section had popped. Replaced with a 16V i had in stock and it was good to go. Curious to see if anyone else tries to tackle one if the issue is the same…

edit: its the greep cap shown in Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware - #3190 by mr.sneezy

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