Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Sads,

I did manage to get it working and I posted it on my website, FitzsTech - Brilliant Smart Fan controller. But if I was doing it again, I would use the stock firmware and then use the Tuya intagration to control it because the remote control does not work with Tasmota. The trick is to not use the BrillantSmart App, but use the Tuyasmart or SmartLife App instead, and add the fan via those apps, then follow one of the tutorials online to integrate Tuya into Home Assistant. This will produce a much better outcome. I know a lot of folks love Tasmota, they flash stuff before thinking it through. It’s not a solution for everything. My suggestion is to try and recover the old firmware. If you want to be a little sneaky, just return it to Bunnings or wherever you bought it and get a new one under warranty. trust me this will be a lot better outcome for you.

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cheers for that. i soldered pins for flashing so would not be comfortable returning it after that. I have been trying all sorts of permutations and combinations with esphome to get the right Tuya MCU rx and tx and datapoint operations to no avail. So close but so far. I here you about going back to stock, i did create a back up with tasmotizer so may give tuya local a whirl.
(the chip discussed is a TYWE1S-IPEX (ESP8266EX) for future reference)

If you have it flashed with Tasmota, this is my working config.

  1. Connect to it over your network and go to Configuration-----Configure other, and use this template
{"NAME":"Brilliant Fan","GPIO":[0,107,0,108,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":54}
  1. Enter this backlog command in console
Backlog TuyaMCU 11,1; TuyaMCU 12,9; TuyaMCU 21,10
  1. Once it reboots, use this backlog command in console (change to suit your MQTT and naming details)
Backlog MqttHost 192.168.X.X; MqttUser !!!USERNAME!!!!; MqttPassword !!!PASSWORD!!!; Hostname bedroom_fan; MqttClient bedroom_fan; Topic bedroom_fan; DeviceName bedroom_fan; FriendlyName1 bedroom_fan; SetOption0 1; TelePeriod 60; PowerRetain 1;

fan.yaml
(again, adjust to suit your setup)

- platform: mqtt
  name: "Lounge Fan"
  command_topic: "cmnd/brilliant_fan/POWER1"
  state_topic: "stat/brilliant_fan/POWER1"
  payload_on: "ON"
  payload_off: "OFF"
  availability_topic: "tele/brilliant_fan/LWT"
  payload_available: "Online"
  payload_not_available: "Offline"
  preset_mode_state_topic: "stat/brilliant_fan/RESULT"
  preset_mode_value_template: >
    {%- if value == '3,0' %}Low
    {%- elif value == '3,1' %}Medium
    {%- elif value == '3,2' %}High
    {%- endif -%}
  preset_mode_command_topic: "cmnd/brilliant_fan/TuyaSend4"
  preset_mode_command_template: >
    {%- if value == "Low" %}3,0
    {%- elif value == "Medium" %}3,1
    {%- elif value == "High" %}3,2
    {%- endif -%}
  qos: 0
  preset_modes:
    - "Low"
    - "Medium"
    - "High"

Fan

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Thanks Jason, nicely composed. I will give that a go tomorrow :+1:

Jason @kanga_who, I can only assume your model is the “99111” model which is documented well as working.

Tony @coffeesnob is correct and has done an excellent job documenting his findings on the “99333” model.

I concur with Tony the issues with the Tuya MCU. The Tuya TX Pin is GPIO15 on this model. This allows wifi control and we receive states over MQTT. However the RX Pin may as well not be set, as we are unable to get any feedback from the MCU (and therefore the RF button presses/ states not initiated via WiFi)

I live in hope it may be something simple we are both overlooking. Otherwise back to Tuya firmware as Tony suggested.

I think it is, my apologies. I didn’t realize the 99333 was still flashable, I thought it was chip swapped like the newer 99111’s are.

I’m looking for a power board, say one with 4 plugs that is Zigbee compatible where you could address each plug port individually. E.g. turn off plug 1, 2, 3, or 4. I haven’t been able to find anyone selling such a product. Does anyone have a recommendation?

Something like this ?

They were available on Amazon for around $40 previously.

That looks pretty good yeah. Thanks.

Caution note, just because they are sold by Kogan does not make them ‘Australian’. The photos are dodgy and the plugs are shown upside down which is Chinese style. Also their Global Mark Certificate is only for their Wi-Fi versions, with no Zigbee versions having a certificate.

It’s just upside down in some photos…not in this one:

image

Also, it must be Aus certified to be sold here otherwise Kogan would get taken to the cleaners. Should be able to find a cert for it.

image

Hi @sparkydave

Yeah I found the cert they are quoting but it is not for the zigbee version, only wifi.
GMA-504944-EA is what I found on global-mark
It has SM-SO301-A, not SM-SO301-AZ
https://www.amazon.com.au/dp/B09CPTZYZ1
The Kogan photos are a bit less dodgy than the one below, except I wouldn’t turn off my kettle at 8:00PM, turn on a coffee machine at 9:00PM and a toaster at 7:00AM, but each to their own.


Yes I’m scared of burning my house down with non approved stuff.

PS black version for $35.27 (after coupons) here if you like though

https://www.amazon.com.au/Jinvoo-ZigBee-Smart-Power-Strip/dp/B099WKQ16N/?th=1

Hey Tim - is that “toggle switch one button” mode?

It is the dual button mode. The 3 position momentary switch acts like two discrete momentary switches.

I have mine setup on a test bench as I am yet to install the lights.

Hi guys, I just making my first foray into zigbee devices with a zemismart M515EGWT blind motor. I was impressed (price AU$67 with AU plug and only $3 delivery taking 7 days from Wollongong) … but that’s a different story.

I was expecting to come here to research getting tuya working locally … but have not got that far ;-( It seems I forgot to take note of the measurements, and so when attaching to the window frame I discover it only just fits – without the power plug. With power plug attached :frowning:

Possible solutions come to mind:
(1) I guess I could shorten the cord – but this requires reconnecting it such that the join will go through the drive sprocket … and I’m renting and will be unable to return the window to original condition.

(2) purchase a shorter zemismart blind motor – their RF model is only 164mm long, compared to the186mm for my unit.

(3) does anyone make right-angle power connectors ?

(4) I could remove the cover (invalidate warranty) and attempt to solder the power adapter wires (very poor soldering skills)

But before I do this, have you guys any other suggestions I have missed ?

Have you had similar experiences ? It occurs to me that the cords on roller blinds are made to fit the same standard window size as the fabric of the blind, and so this must be a universal problem.

Does that work with zigbee2mqtt?

Tom; sorry, I’m using the WiFi variant of this. I don’t see it, or anything resembling it on the supported devices list. Maybe in the future?

Gonna risk it and try it out. Let you know how it goes :+1:

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could you mount it upside down then feed the cord through it?

Chris, I did briefly wonder about it upside down, but (a) it would not use the existing mounting screw on the window frame, (b) the unit itself would be in the way and catch on the beaded cord, (c) the beaded cord will not be travelling as far around the sprocket, so more chance of skipping, and (d) the control buttons would be upside down.

Thinking about it again, the real issue is keeping enough tension on the sprocket as it turns, and the above may not be insurmountable.
(a) I was intending to use a few 3M Command adhesive strips to attach it to the window frame (because I am renting).
(d) the main driver is that end of the window is difficult to get at, and so I was wanting to use HA with automations and voice assistant anyway (so avoiding using the manual control buttons and the zemismart app). I have since remembered that the buttons can be swapped depending on whether the cord is on the right or left of the window.
(b) and (c) will be the most likely limiting factor … The sprocket cover has several tabs which I could break off to give gaps at the correct locations - but for the better long-term I could 3D print a new sprocket cover which will guide the beaded cord to the sides.

This will be less invasive than opening the case and hard-wiring the power to the power socket, … but first I might try buying a “Right Angle DC Plug” from Jaycar and soldering up a short external power extension lead. Hopefully my soldering is up to that :wink: