Hi there,
I have started a sauna build at home and have read an interesting github from Kille, GitHub - killee/Sauna-controller: Sauna Controller with esp8266 ESPHome for a integration in Home Assistant
Has anyone else in Oz or Nz had a go at using HA to control your sauna? I know many heaters have wifi control panels and there are posts where integrations with these are attempted but I haven’t found a simple integration - most require some coding and fiddling.
Pat
I will doing a similar set up in the near future, do you have a drawing or a visual of the wiring?
You also have to excuse my ignorance, but I don’t get how you turn the light on/off. Obviously pushing up turns the light on and down dims the light, but how do you turn it off?
A short press on either will toggle the light on or off.
A longer press will dim.
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Hope this helps. And yes, as @jivesinger said, a short press on either up/down will toggle the light and a long press will brighten or dim.
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KP115 $19.95 if it your first purchase through the Amazon App. Look for the small “Promotion Message”
https://www.amazon.com.au/TP-Link-Kasa-Smart-Energy-Monitoring/dp/B08SHN7S33/ref=sr_1_5?crid=26PF84OFO7TO0&keywords=tp-link+kasa+smart+wi-fi+plug&qid=1666349004&qu=eyJxc2MiOiIwLjk4IiwicXNhIjoiMC4wMCIsInFzcCI6IjAuMDAifQ%3D%3D&sprefix=Link+Kasa+Smart+Wi-F%2Caps%2C550&sr=8-5
But can we set them up locally anymore?
Yes I bought 3 for a slightly higher price just the other day…
Does you app have the ability to skip the login though? Mine disappeared and I had to make an account
yes true I foolishly updated the other day. I created an account but no problems with local control that I can see. I have an Android phone so I could side load an older version of the app I guess.
I also bought a few of the TP-Link Kasa plugs a couple weeks ago via the link here and set them up without installing the app.
I followed the tip at TP-Link Kasa Smart - Home Assistant to use the kasa Python CLI to join them to my Wi-Fi and then added them to Home Assistant.
I did something like this on my Mac to install the kasa tool:
python3 -m venv tplink
cd tplink
bin/pip install python-kasa
Then after joining the WiFi network of the new device:
# find the IP (it should be at 192.168.0.1)
bin/kasa discover
# scan for Wi-Fi networks
bin/kasa --host 192.168.0.1 wifi scan
# join your network
bin/kasa --host 192.168.0.1 wifi join my-iot-ssid
Once they’ve joined to your network, switch back to your main Wi-Fi and add them to Home Assistant using discovery. Took me about a minute to set up each one.
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I use Nue smart GPO plugs (which aren’t confirmed in blackadder to work with ZHA) but they sure do… 
I am about to try a Tuya (with power monitoring)
Has anyone heard or seen anything about what frequencies the Martec 4 in 1 with Remote control uses ? I am looking at getting one for a bathroom (besser block solid walls so no way to run more than 1 wire that is already there for a master on/off) - therefore to use the different functions independently we need to use the remote control
We would like to automate this - so for instance turn the extraction fan on when humidity is above x% etc etc
I have rung their support people but they either have no idea or are unwilling to provide any documentation
Craig
Dip switches and a wire antenna… I’d be guessing Rf433
Maybe a little off topic. My house has old wiring without neutral to most switches. I’ve have one that does have a neutral, and also a two way switch on the same box. Can the wiring to the remote switch legally be used to carry the neutral (removing the two way switch function) on a non-black conductor?
Once I have a neutral to both places, smart switches can give the same function as a two way switch (and more), I guess the question is how to mark a non-black wire is used as neutral. Just black electrical tape? If this is allowed, I could effectively daisy chain a neutral to about 3 new locations. As long as the neutral does cross rcd zones, I don’t see a problem. I believe I have a single rcd on the whole house lighting circuit.
Do the Clipsal Pro mechanisms fit ok in older 30 Series Switch Plates?
Happy to be proven wrong but I don’t believe so.
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No they don’t. They have a manual lock mechanism to hold them in place. I like the look of Iconic but find the flex in all the parts to feel very cheap.
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I just spotted this company selling AU certified gear I might give them a go
Where’s the certification? Everything looks US style, especially the wiring diagrams