Then again this is the Australia Electrically Certified Hardware thread.
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Thatâs a fair point 
Pretty easy to find Aus certified power monitoring plugs in-store, like Tapo/TP-Link plugs for example.
Like this one:
Note there is a guy in there that had one catch fire. Didnât stop me buying one from that deal though 
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I already have the Pi4 and SSD. Just need the USB-SATA connector, which I have a feeling I have one somewhere but it might not be USB3. Maybe a case to replace the one I have.
Hey @tinglis1, just curious if you have any of the shelly dimmer 2 setup with multiple switches, especially, the clipsal 3-position momentary toggle (P49MBPR-XW)
Sorry I wasnât being clear. I meant using the clipsal switch but in a 2-way or 3-way switches setup? Like one at the bottom and one top of the stairs for example.
Not sure you can do that with the dimmer 2 with a 3 position switch as that uses both inputs on the dimmer module. One for up and one for down.
Up I could try wire up multiple dimmer switches in parallel. Not sure what would happen if you had conflicting inputs thought. E.g. up on one and down on the other.
You could use a momentary on one input for the second switch and both up and down with a single press toggle the light.
Yeah I was worry about the conflicting inputs too. I think the momentary switches would greatly minimise the chance of that happening (youâd need two or more people at different places pressing opposing inputs at the same time). But still Iâm a bit concerned about what would happen, from the wiring it looks like the common input for the switches go to the L contact of the Dimmer 2.
My guess is that I donât l think anything will happen as you can have two separate switches connected in other configurations. The controller logic will just ignore the second command trying to override the first.
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So I got all the parts and tested this out. 3 momentary SPDT switches in parallel with each other and the shelly dimmer 2 at the end before the light and it works as expected. Conflicting inputs does nothing as you expected â so thatâs a relief. One will also need an additional 2-core cable between the switches to carry the SW1 and SW2 signals.
The only thing I donât quite get is forcing up/down position to off/on exclusively. With the âdual switchâ setting in the dimmerâs setting, either position (up or down) of the switch can toggle the light. Dim and brighten work as expected though, ie up to brighten and down to dim.
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My setup works the same. Initially it annoyed me but over time I donât notice anymore. More importantly my partner doesnât care and is just happy it always works.
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I donât seem to have guest access in my Kasa app anymore. Used to be able to skip create account. But itâs not possible now? Anyone else confirm? I canât do anything with my existing devices currently.
Can confirm I donât have âguestâ available either.
That said I have an account so can still get in, as long as I remember to unblock the tp-link domains in Adguard!
I just bought two of these: https://smarthomedirect.com.au/product/zigbee-smart-plug-with-repeater/ as I was sick and tired of flashable wifi plugs dying after 12 months (also they are getting harder to find).
The ones I was sent look nothing like the picture. They are actually these: Climax Power Plug PSM-29ZBSR Zigbee compatibility with an AU outlet.
Specs and approvals seem the same.
No issue pairing with Zigbee2mqtt. Power updates every 10 seconds, switch has no lag.
The only thing is the price. $100ea 
They had better bloody well last twenty years.
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I wouldnât even pay that for Z-waveâŚ
The other thing I forgot to mention was that Iâm heading overseas for a year in two weeks and needed some simple to configure spares for my house sitter.
Makes me glad I picked up a few of the samsung ones when they were running out at JBHifi before covid hit.
You think thatâs bad, the MSRP is listed as $280 in a number of places 