Thats true, power need to come from somewhere. But without a neutral, in must be leaking a little current through the load even when it is off, so it might not be truely off. I’m sure in most cases it not a problem. The bypass cap might avoid most of this for small loads, and larger loads it unlikely to be noticed.
Given a choice I will want a unit with uses the neutral. And I have choices… I think.
So sorry if this is a bit of a nooby question but I haven’t seen any mention of the bypass cap or minimum load or anything - was that 12W per switch? So if one switch had 4 LED lights that were 9W each, it would be fine, but if the other one only had 1 LED bulb that was 9W, you’d need to put the bypass on it? Does this mean that if there’s a bypass it’ll constantly be drawing 12W of power to keep itself working, even when the bulbs are off? Or have I misunderstood how it works?
Correct.
No.
The current will be considerably less. So much less that the light will not turn on. If the switch drew 12W through the light it would turn on.
The 12W rating is so that resistance is low enough to draw this small amount of power reliably.
I asked the lighting superstore about returning this unit. They checked with Mercator and have been told there is a new model coming out with the neutral wire, and are adding to their website and updating the existing description. Aside, they are even will pay for return shipping (which they don’t usually do).
Right, OK - that makes sense! Sorry for the silly question but I’m not handy/electrical and this is my first foray into HA and automated/smart stuff and wanted to make sure I knew what was going on before we went out and bought switches and whatnot
So basically, with the bypass, it’ll still be drawing some power, but only a small amount (which makes sense since it needs some power to stay turned on). Just trying to not go with anything crazy that’ll mean we’re running huge amounts of extra power and increasing our energy bill!
Actually capacitors will make the power factor better in most cases (fixes a lagging PF). Generally the power factor is ‘lagging’ due to inductive loads such as motors or old fluoro lights. Capacitors fix this up. Things are changing though, particularly in the domestic scene because a lot of consumer electronics make the power factor ‘leading’.
In the case of this capacitor though it would be a very small value and have minimal effect.
The new Mercator ikuu product with neutral wire is mode SSW02GX-ZB. I should have one in 2 weeks.
I found this Mercator Ikuu SSW02GX ZB.
Better specs:
max 400W LED per gang; max 1000W halogen per gang; M.40; double gang; Zigbee Communcation
vs:
2 A, Max. 300 W LED or Incandescent lamp (each gang) for the SSW02G
Here a whole list of their produces: Mercator Ikuu Device Database
Did you manage to get them from Lighting Superstore or from Mercator directly?
Lighting superstore. They just doing a swap. They have put the new one on their website, but at $99. You might want to wait for sparkydirect.com.au to pick it up.
Yeah, that’s fair - though I don’t quite know if I have a neutral wire or not in my place yet, but will ask the sparky when they come out to give us a quote, but good to know that both options are there regardless of what we need
Hey guys, I brought another DETA 6914HA 3-speed fan/light controller from Bunnings on the weekend. Didn’t think much of it until setting it up in HA.
Seems that this one is now a Series2, so I’m guessing that they may have updated it to a non ESP based chip.
Anyway, the issue I’ve found is that in the Tuya intergration, it shows as just a fan. There is no light switch. Also, the fan has more than 3 speeds. Looking in the Tuya IoT portal, it shows 26 speeds, and no light control. This is weird, cause in the Tuya app on my iphone, it shows the normal DETA interface with light and timer, and the 3 fan speeds with timers too. This is the exact same as the original HA6914 that I have.
I can’t get my head around what is going on. Has anyone else experience the same with this device, or similar with another??
Thanks in advance.
Has anyone tried Eve Energy, they now support matter which is of interest.
Got a link?
At $100 it’d want to be good.
I think I’d want at least a 3 year guarantee at that price.
They are $85 including delivery, cheaper if you buy more.
Well what the other options buy cheap and having it fail?
If there is/was some evidence/certainty that those ones would last longer I would be very open to spending more.
In lieu of that I’d rather “they put my money where thier mouth is” and offer a good warranty;)
To be clear I don’t know anything about their products reputation or what warranty they offer.
I have a bunch of Telstra (Sercomm) Zigbee Plugs for sale if anyone is interested. DM me.