can you recommend a smart wall switch that can replace this old one?
thanks
Any Clipsal series will be a straight fit which would be my preference. HPM and Deta etc will also fit but they are inferior brands.
What exactly are you wanting to achieve? Iām guessing you want a smart solution. I havenāt yet seen anything 5 gang in a smart switch plate. If you have space in a cavity behind then you can stick with ādumbā switches and wire them to smart relays/dimmers.
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Thanks Dave, sorry i didnt mention wanting a smart solution one.
Mercator just released a 5 and 6 gang. But I really prefer a tactile button.
Yeah, I use Clipsal 4000 Series with momentary pushbuttons connected to ZWave dimmers/switches
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Iāve had 2x KP115 fail in the past monthā¦both around 2 years old (hilarious for a product with 2yr warranty) and both failing in a very concerning manner where Iām worried about them attacking connected equipment 
Failure noticed due to rapid relay switching making a lot of noise - seems whole unit is resetting continuously (more than once a second non stop) as wifi never gets a chance to connect, assume that is being reset too. Both failed in exact same way, about a month apart. One was very hot (extremely concerning), one was only a bit warm.
Not sure if bad batch or unlucky or if I need to change them to something else, Iāve certainly lost confidence in these units and I have about 15 others around the house 
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What kind of workloads/duty cycle did they have?
Were they mostly monitoring power or switching power? What kind of loads / appliances?
Do they default as on/off/restore on boot?
Failed KP115 #1
Load:
- x3 Game Console (PS5, xboxSeriesX, nintendoSwitch - all āsleepā rather than turn off)
- Various Controller charging docks
- TV
Switching: Never - Always On
On Boot: Unknown/default (never changed it)
Failed KP115 #2
Load:
- AppleTV
- NvidiaShield
- AVR (11ch surround receiver)
- Powered subwoofer
Switching: Never- Always On
On Boot: Unknown/default (never changed it)
Always had some idle load as these devices idle 1-3w each
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Doesnāt look ātoo onerousā to me. Not that I really know though;)
More like a āmedium-ish loadā? And obviously not asking much in terms of switching the relay.
Itās super annoying that the candidates in the space typically cark-it in roughly 1-2 years. Boooooā¦
On failing smart switches (e.g. Kogans and now unfortunately it sounds like the KP115 units too), I doubt the load has a lot to do with failures unless you are seeing fused relay contacts. These continual restart and unit becoming completely unresponsible issues sound more like a low voltage power supply issue to me, which I suspect is more likely exacerbated by having the relay always active.
I feel like these arenāt well suited to āalways onā use cases (e.g. power monitoring and āI need to powercycle this device every so oftenā). A similar unit using normal closed relay contacts would be nice. Either that or something with known better build quality (e.g. quality power supply components). What are the chances of that though, eh?
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Big W has a the Cygnett single and 4 way smart plugs on special (clearance) and is already out of stock in a lot of places.
I have both and have been using the 4 way powerboard for about a year with the SonoffLan integration and it works fine.
https://www.bigw.com.au/product/cygnett-smart-wifi-plug/p/67520
https://www.bigw.com.au/product/cygnett-4-outlet-smart-power-board-with-2x-usb-a-ports/p/148846
Iām looking for ideas on the best way to convert some lights to being connected to Home Assistant.
I have a 4 rocker light switch that currently controls four light circuits at the front of my house. A complication is that two of these have motion sensors wired into their circuits. I would like to have convert this to a smart switch solution integrated with Home Assistant and am trying to work out the optimal solution to minimize electrician costs and to have the best final solution.
Ultimately I want to be able to use the input from the motion sensors to control some of the lights, but I want to be able to override it at times. ie. I donāt want them to cut the power to the circuit.
I currently have a combination of Zigbee and Shelly devices so would probably prefer to keep the solution using these although open to other Aus Certified products.
If I went with three Shelly 2PMās I could maybe have the four switches and the two motion sensors wired into the six switch inputs - however I expect I would need an additional cable run done to each of the motion sensors.
If I went with a quad Zigbee light switch (any recommendations?) then Iād need to replace the motion sensors with something Zigbee and have the wiring adjusted at the lights (to remove the existing motion sensors).
Any other thoughts?
Iād say this is likely your only way to utilise the existing motion sensors but yes, it would require additional cabling/re-working the circuit.
Alternatively you could remove the 240V motion sensors, have the light circuits ānormalā and switched purely from smart switches, then use new āsmartā motion sensors that just talk back to HA.
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Weāre about to have the bathroom done and the wife wants a Tastic (one of those things with a fan, heat lights and regular lights). AFAIK there isnāt a Zigbee (or even wifi) tastic unit available here, would I be right in saying that the options for controlling it would be 3x Shelly 1s or one of those Mercator Ikuu Zigbee wall switches? Also does anyone know of a narrow Zigbee 3 switch light switch unit (narrow enough to fit on a doorframe)? All the ones Iāve seen have a large wall plate rather than being made for doorframes.
Are you wanting to control the heat lamps as well as the normal light and fan? Those bad boys pull some serious current (generally 275W each bulbā¦looking at close to 5A there if you run 4 of them ) so just be aware of device limitations. Some of the smart light switches have terrible current ratings, Iāve seen as low as 4A.
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You mean something like this?
Iām looking to control whatever I can control ! 
So if I can get the heat lamps running and automated, that would be great. If not we can live without them. We have high ceilings, so in the end I may not even bother getting a unit with heat lamps.
I hadnāt seen the Brilliant unit - thanks for drawing my attention to it! Two things put me off. Firstly my experience with Brilliant stuff generally is not great - the quality seems a bit lacking. Secondly, while itās probably Tuya, getting the damn thing working in Local Tuya (or Tuya Local) would be a challenge for me. I just canāt figure out how to block them from calling home.
Thanks for the replies guys, much appreciated.
Speaking from experience, anything higher than a 2.4 metre ceiling makes the heat lamps ineffective, plus there is a permanent opening through which any warm air immediately escapes.
I got rid of ours and installed;
An inline fan with a butterfly valve, so if the fan was switched on, the butterfly valve would open and vice versa
A bar heater on the wall above the linen cupboard door, close enough for effective heat.
Those Tastic things are also major dust collectors and allow any dust in the roof space to blow into the bathroom. I hate the bloody things.
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100%. I actually hate those 3 in 1 units as well. The fans are always pathetic. You canāt beat a standard 250mm exhaust fan for a bathroom. Check the air flow rates, the 250mm fan is more than double the 3 in 1 unit.
You can actually buy individual heat lamps which are a much better option because they can be used in conjunction with whatever nice lights you want, plus a proper (as above) exhaust fan.
I see a bunch of reviews talking about noise and build quality. Are yours running strong and not making unhealthy noises?