An online fan in the roof space is far less noisy and doesn’t suffer the same problems because it is smaller in diameter. With an actuated butterfly valve, no air leakage and no dust blown in. Granted, more expensive but no comparison.
Still going strong, no issues here.
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I’ve pulled the bulbs out of our heat lamps because the damn kids kept leaving them on. I got home one night and saw the electricity usage was through the roof - the heat lamps had been left on in multiple bathrooms.
Now if I had a smart switch controlling them I could put the bulbs back and have an automatic turn off after X minutes … but my solution was cheaper.
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It is possible with some firewall rules, They dont seem to respond to local tuya all that well unless you isolate them on your network kind of making it a must.
I wasn’t overly happy with local tuya, The deal breaker was the packages inability to start and run offline, so I promptly scrambled its brains and flashed it with ESPhome, Ive also had some devices with the WB3S chip, The only only solution for those is a brain transplant.
That’s the part I can’t figure out! I’m sure there’s a simple how-to video on YouTube somewhere but the only one I could find didn’t work for me.
I’ll look into the other options. As you say the heat lamps are a waste of time but it would be nice to have the fan and the light in a single unit - there seem to be a few around.
Weirdly the current fan, which doesn’t work, is located over the bath (ie in the shower). Not super comfortable with that, especially given the house currently has no safety switches!
I’m guessing this was in response to my post.
Every inline fan I’ve even seen has half or less the air flow of what I linked to, they are junk. AS for noise, sure you get that with decent air flow. Dust, you can buy models with flaps to prevent this.
Exactly, inline fans are pathetic compared to the old style ceiling mounted exhaust fan. I get zero steam in my ensuite when having a hot shower, the fan sucks all of it away perfectly.
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Likewise but I use a IXL-tastic. 
And you will have to pry it from my cold dead hands. it’s an older model and sucks like Bambi Woods.
I did have to install a vent in the door though. It sealed too well to allow the fan to draw in air.
What are you using in terms of a router/firewall ?
Hey guys
I’m in need for a mains power relay switch that doesn’t require a neutral.
I’ve come across these but definitely wont install it because it’s only rated at 6amp
Any of you have other suggestions?
What is the go to ZigBee lock now those cheap Assure’s are not around? Pity!
So I got one of the ikuu quad GPOs to put in my laundry. That way I can get an alert when the dryer or washing machine has finished.
(the power monitoring is done as 2 pairs so that’s why I got a quad.
It also replaced a 2 point GPO that had a double adaptor hanging out of it, so that’s safer / better too.
Only problem is, the indicator power lights are a joke.
Can’t tell when it’s on.
You can barely see them when the room is dark
(this photo makes them look a hell of a lot brighter than they are to a human eye The room is actually pitch dark and my pixel is doing its night mode inhancement)
I’m guessing that the LED is just powered via a resistor to either 5v or 240v…
Questions:
Anyone pulled one apart?
Is mine just exceptionally dim or is this the norm?
I figure the brightness would be the same for the 2 outlet GPO as well as this unit is just 2x outlet GPO stuck on a different faceplate.
@sparkydave thanks for all your input in this forum, I am sure you have helped many people.
Here are some inline fans to consider.
As you can see the airflow and all the engineering data. What we look for is 150 l/s for a shower and around 50 l/s for a toilet.
If you look at RIL-150SW Hi the m3/sec it says 0.16 that = 160 l/s good for a shower. The RIL-100 good for a toilet.
For the RIL-150SW you can get a backflow damper
Roof outlet you can get it with a fan or without a fan and or bushfire rated. With fan $$ so may be better to get inline and just the outlet.
Take note of the static pressure in your calculations. All fan curves and data is provided.
These are the fans I have.
Hope this helps
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I was referring to 4 in 1 unit fans.
671m3/hr with backdraught flaps
I’m just going from experience with steam build-up in bathrooms that have inline fans as part of IXL (or similar) 4 in 1 units.
Yea fully understand, I just thought I would share that with you as it may help you if you ever need a inline fan on a job.
and no I dont work for Fantech, just been using their products for over 30 years.
All good. I don’t mind those ones, I just can’t stand the all-in-one units which have less than half the air flow.
eg : pathetic flow (283m3/hr =78 l/s) vs. your 160 l/s or my 186 l/s
Agree, also exhausting into a roof space is starting to be a no go now. Be careful with the data they provide, and if you connect any ductwork to them, well…
Edit:
We need to consider the static pressure. Some fan just can’t handle any static pressure. It is all very similar to volts, amps and cable size. I would probably say if you put 100 pa on your fan it would be around 50 l/s. The 186 l/s is at probably 3 pa. Trust me on this one, I have been doing this for a long time.
If you look at the above graph you can see static pressure on the left side. If you follow it over you can see the airflow (red = low speed & blue = High speed). Connecting ductwork to the fan in a domestic environment you will probably find that you will be around the 80 pa. If it is a bigger run then maybe 150 pa. When designing you system try and stay under the 150 pa as a guide. So at 100 pa you can expect to get around 140 l/s to 160 l/s.
Bit late to this discussion - but we got a “dumb” fan/light/heat unit installed in our bathroom and ran it down to a Deta 3 button smart switch. Hooked it up to local Tuya and with the help of a zigbee humidity sensor we now have an automated extraction fan till the room dries out.
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I thought my post was crystal clear in referring to a purely inline fan and not as part of a three on one.
Hi @Nyghtshayde,
We did an ensuite reno last year, and fitted some IXL Tastic Luminate devices (a fan unit and a separate heat lamp unit). Both run to a standard wall switch with push-button switches, and in the wall behind the switch unit I use Fibaro ZWave switches, managed by HA for triggers based on humidity, motion etc.
You said zigbee or wifi I know - but just adding how we did ours in case anyone else is using ZWave.
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Hey guys, I was wondering if anyone knows of a battery powered lux reader that works with HA? I’ve got a dumb DC fan and light combo, and it seems the only way to control it might be to get something like a broadlink, but doing so means I won’t know whether the light is on/off. Hoping a battery powered lux meter somewhere in the room will be able to tell if the light is on or not