Pretty much…
It’s still obviously best to ensure you make it safe. ie: not going to catch fire.
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Is it legal to cut the plug off and hook stuff up to the wires? Safely of course. Will probably go to a ln298n.
I took a punt and bought this EGLO Tourbillion 80" ceiling fan for my patio reno, which needs their optional extra smart receiver (wifi module)
Managed to get it integrated via localTuya, as straightforward as can be. Happy days.
On the 12v side, yep. All good
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Has anyone come across a button or controller that fits in with the standard wall plates?
Single rooms I’ve got the v1 hue dimmer with a shim to cover the switch, but looking to add buttons to a couple of wallplates that have no connection to the lights they’re going to control.
Current solution is just a Xiaomi button on the plate but they’re huge and look out of place.
Wifi or Zigbee?
There are plenty of zigbee modules you can fit behind standard wall plates.
Search this topic for Wiser and Mercator.
For wifi you can use Shelly modules.
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Something like this:
The 4 button one is not very good, the buttons ate too small for my fat fingers.
I guess what I was picturing was something similar to a Shelly Plus i4?
Not fussed either way - I assumed zigbee as could run off a battery.
Was also hoping to get it to fit inside an existing 4 gang with two ‘normal’ switches.
EDIT: contenders found so far… but not quite right
- Wireless Remote Switch H1 - Aqara depending on how it fits size wise. Might get away with it covering the top two spots of a 4 gang plate.
- Aqara mini switch - if they’re the same size as the square temp sensors that might work ok.
Oh they’re neat!
Although probably would prefer ‘normal’ pushbuttons that fit inside the existing plate.
This is one reason I went with the capacity touch version avaliable on ozsmartthings, I can even tap it with the back of my hand and it registers consistently.
You could use a Xiaomi wireless button / generic door & window sensor torn open to put wires across the button / switch contact, then wired to a standard switch plate pushbutton.
That’s how I made my old doorbell
Yeah I’ve just ordered 4 of the Aqara mini switches, if they don’t look ok just on top of the wallplate I might rip one open. I do have a few of the old round Xiaomi ones too so may crack one and see how difficult it would be to use.
There’s not a huge amount of space behind the main one I’m wanting to do this with, otherwise would probably also look for a small 240>5v power supply and consider a little ESP32 or similar too - but then finding pushbuttons that match the two existing 30 series switches - unlike the metal round ones on the plates gaz had above.
I did see those but assumed they were 240v only.
Cheers!
No, you can switch any voltage below the rated one.
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I need a quad zigbee outlet. This seems to be the only AU option.
Did you find a solution to the spam?
Hi everyone
So a while ago I was looking at getting making my hot water system smart, and we’re finally getting it replaced and looking at making it smart, but I just wanted to confirm a few things. So, we’ll be getting this hot water system. The original plan was to use this shelly pro relay in the electric box to make it smart. Firstly, will this relay work with this model of heat tank? Secondly, we have normal shelly relays for our lights and really like it how we can still use them manually to turn the lights on/off, and that it works without internet. If we want a physical button to work for the shelly pro as a manual backup way to run it, how would that work in this situation? Would the switch have a normal shelly relay on it as well? The hot water installers said they’d be able to put a 3 way switch for the hot water system - on, off and timer. Would they be able to hook that into the shelly pro and have it work?
Sorry these might be basic questions, but it’s a little confusing for me and I want to make sure I’ve got all the right info (if it even works) before going ahead with everything!
Thanks in advanced!
As long as you are only getting the single element version, but even then it’s RIGHT on the limit of that relay.
That relay does not have a connection for a manual button / switch.
Doing this will fix you problem with the above issue, but then you will not have power monitoring when the switch is set to ‘on’.
Hi Dave, thanks for the answers. It’s been a while since I’ve done electrical calculations, but my number was that the single element version was 3.6k and the 16A shelly relay was 3.84k - are those the numbers you got too? That feels too close for my liking.
If we ignore the shelly pro relay for now then - are there any other things that I could use instead? I had a quick look at others in the shelly range and they all seem to have a max of 16A. Maybe this is something that can’t be integrated into HA at the moment - especially if I get the 2 element version?