I think you’re right… that type of failure has me worried about my 4 kogan plugs and whether they pose a fire risk.
I’d be sending that photo to kogan to ask for at least a replacement.
Any idea what component it was that failed?
I bought one and flashed it with Tasmota. I will change to esphome now you have shared that config.
Is this a power supplier?
The vaporised part is a multilayer ceramic capacitor. They are notorious for failing short circuit under mechanical stress: https://product.tdk.com/info/en/products/capacitor/ceramic/mlcc/technote/solution/mlcc02/index.html
Having taken a few of these apart it’s obvious that the PCB is under some mechanical stress due to the use of nice over sized (but inflexible) LV cabling between the socket and PCB and the limited space available under the PCB.
Looks like a bunch of cascading failures after that due to the vaporised metal inside the case creating conduction paths for the LV into the ELV circuit.
Nice to see it was contained well. I’ve got 19 of those around the place.
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I’m very interested in the Brilliant Smart Dimmer Mech (link)
But before ordering, I’d like some feedback form someone who’s used one.
Can anyone here tell me:
- Does the dimming work well with dimmable LED bulbs without any flicker?
- Can it be flashed with Tasmota using Tuya Convert?
- Can the serial interface headers be accessed by un-clipping the plastic casing?
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I was in my local bunnings today, and had a look at their “Smrt Home” display. Noticed a Device that resembled a Sonoff basic they called it “In-Line switch module with grid connect” No pricing, nothing on the website, and nobody around at the time to ask.
Looks like the available range is increasing!
Hi Mark,
I have one of these dimmers running 6 downlights with no flickering issues.
I flashed tasmota using Tura-convert so didn’t open up the case to check for serial headers.
The Tuya-MCU config works. To finish setting it up, I ran the commands:
TuyaMCU 21,2
dimmerrange 1,255
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Hi Brad… I just used your ESPHome config successfully—thanks!
Out of interest, how did you come up with those values for current_res and voltage_div?
Thank you Craig - this is exactly what I was looking for.
Hi Ben
It was trial and error using an old 60w incandescent bulb and a multimeter until I got it right.
Wow, dedication!
I was just wondering, as voltage seems to be reading a bit low (just based on what my solar smartmeter reads as current AC voltage—voltage at the socket is likely somewhat lower, but I didn’t think it’d be that much. e.g. currently reading 240.8V on the meter, and 225.7V on the Kogan). Haven’t checked with a multimeter (or any calibrated device) though.
You have to calibrate each one. They’ll all be different.
Start with the voltage then do the current. An iron or a toasted sandwich maker make good test loads. One of these helps:
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Merry Christmas everyone. I’ve put up a blog post about setting up the Brilliant Smart Ceiling Fan Remote: https://newadventuresinwi-fi.blogspot.com/2019/12/brilliant-smart-ceiling-fan-remote-in-home-assistant.html
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You can find these light at some Aldi stores. I initially bought 2 box at $80 each. Last week I bought 2 more at $50 each. I might go back to their last box (Chatswood). They flash with tuya-convert.
I feel late to the party here, but I finally got around to writing up my Arlec Grid Connect Christmas lights, which are Tuya MCU based. The advice here and on the Tasmota wiki was invaluable, hopefully this helps someone else as well.
https://www.madebymikal.com/hacking-on-arlec-christmas-lights-with-tasmota/
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This is a long thread. I wish i found it sooner. There was a mention on this dimmer:
[https://www.tradezone.com.au/product/brilliant-200-watt-smart-led-dimmer-mech-white-79163.html](http://Brilliant 200 Watt SMART LED Dimmer Mech White)
Has anyone converted it? I’ll order one in any case I try it myself.
I’m doing renovations in a couple on months, I need to convince/specify to the architect the electrical setup I want. I don’t think I can ask the sparky insert sonoff’s for me. I’m going to pick up a Deta gpo and switch from Bunnings to show her what can be done.
I there a summary page anywhere of this thread?
Closest thing to a summary:
I have that page booked marked, but it does not state if the device is certified…
In Australia, things must be certified 
for our safety 
I have a question about tuya convert. I am in the process of flashing some kogan smart plugs. I have successfully flashed using tuya convert and then tasmota. I was warned to make sure I get the SSID and password correct for the flash or I could brick the device.
Once flashed can I use these devices on another wifi network or must it always be on the network I flashed with originally?
Boxing day at Bunnings, to pick up my bit to show the architect. They had a whole display on smart home devices, including a few things not in the web site yet:
A “plug base” and sonoff style inline relay. The rewirebale plug, I knew about and had one ordered, but with the plug base, they should not be necessary.
I found the plugbase for sell $20. The same as the rewireable plug. I purchased a couple.
It tuya-converted. Template:
{"NAME":"DetaPlugBase","GPIO":[0,17,0,0,0,0,0,0,0,56,21,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}
I relay, one barely visible led inside the hole off to the side of the ground pin, and a next to useless push button inside that hole (it came it a plastic key/pin to press this button for pairing mode).
I’ll published this once there is a reference to to it on bunnings or deta web sites.
This device would be idea if it also had a switch terminal on the back, so the sparky can added more light to the same control.
I haven’t not open it up yet. No problem removing the triangle screw, but it requires four tight fitting plastic latches to plied. Through I doubt there is much that be hacked here.
I could not find the ‘sonoff’ reply, or some downlights they had on the display. I was told, the display was only just installed, and they don’t have stock.
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