Thanks so much for this config - I would not have figured that out without the example. Just a note for anyone else doing it - the 2 and 3 gang switch string above should have a semi colon after the “TuyaMCU 33, 104,” - (ie should be “TuyaMCU 33, 104;”)
4 Gang follows the same pattern
Backlog TuyaMCU 31,103;TuyaMCU 32, 102;TuyaMCU 33, 104; TuyaMCU 11,1;TuyaMCU 12,2;TuyaMCU 13,3;TuyaMCU 14,4
My last batch of 4 Gang switches doesn’t seem to like (even the latest) Tuya-convert
Asided; I’ve actually picked up a Mirabella Genio power board with USB which Kmart sales for $49 from Costco for $39. This power board differs from others as you can actually control the usb output. I happen to add (pull request) an esphome config for this on https://esphome-configs.io/standards/au/ yesterday (it not up yet).
The only problem with this power board, it lacks screw keyhole mounts on the back.
Mine are responding within 2-3 seconds - did you put the fast connect option in your wifi settings? This stops it doing a full scan before it joins. You might also want to use static IP addresses to stop the dhcp delay too.
Another thing you can try if you have multiple wireless APs is to add the closest BSSID manually in the config.
These things won’t be able to use the native HA API because of the fact they only boot on events and then go back to sleep - this process takes to long using the HA API.
I’ve set static IP in my router ( Ubiquity ) and on the device and I set the battery sensor update_interval: back to never.
Delay is now a consistent 5 to 6 seconds.
I can work with that, I just wont put it were a state change will be less than the update delay ( garage door, side gate, windows ).
And I’ll probably change the update_interval: so that I can get battery state again.
IMO its worth the 1 to 2 second delay.
Just wanting to see if anyone has a similar issue. I have a heated towel rail in the bathroom, which is manually controlled using the centre switch in one of these
Generally the middle switch is wired just like a light (switches hot), you would be better off using the deta switch module if you don’t mind another hole in the wall. Check the towel rack load just to be safe.
Hopefully someone comes out with something that can just replace the individual mech(something like brilliant smart dimmer except just on/off). This would make retrofitting a breeze (anyone wanna go halves making one)
If you’re automating to save money on power, it’ll be a multi year payback.
I pulled the pin on the same idea last year when I realised this but maybe your motivation is different.
That being said, there’s no reason you couldn’t replace the mech with the previously mentioned brilliant dimmer.
Your towel rail will be a resistive load just like a traditional light globe, and will be much less than the 350W the dimmer is rated at.
I’ll be interested in whatever solution you come up with.
Check out my post in this https://community.home-assistant.io/t/australia-electrically-certified-hardware/32074/1013, Bunnings sell a wifi ‘plug base’, I bought 2 of these at my local, they have plenty but its not on their web site. Wire one of these inline with the heater should do the trick. They also had on display an ‘in-line switch module’ (I’m assuming shelly or sonoff like) but it nowhere to be found yet. Once available, it would also do the trick.
I have just submitted PR’s for getting the NUE/3A rgb download added to zigbee2mqtt
An added benifit is its also a zigbee router, so helps build out the mesh
We’re doing a renos in a few months, and I’m showing the architect what can be done.
I’ve have a mixture of deta switches,gpos,plug base and brilliant switches, dimmer on tasmota & esphome.
I created a 2.5? way switch. two bedside lights each with a switch, short press toggles the near light, double press toggle both, long press the whole room, and a switch by the door, that toggle both bedside lights with a short press, and long press the whole room. And there is nothing on the relay of the door side switch. ie. no wiring to the bedside lights. The architect says this should actually save money.
When I toggle multiple lights, if any one is on, I turn then all off. If all off, all come on.
The brilliant switch looks better, but because it use a tuya_mcu, I can’t use it like this. Correct me if I’m wrong, but I don’t believe I can see button pushes.
Just checking into this thread as another Aussie (Sydney) who is just starting out with HA and automating things around my home. This thread is a full of excellent info and the summary document will be really handy as I begin to tackle projects.
I’ve got a relatively new ‘dumb’ house with Clipsal saturn switches everywhere and will need to maintain local switching for simplicity (unless I have voice / wall mounted tablet), but long way from that yet.
Thanks for the great discussion and sharing of information here!!
@diramu That inline switch module looks promising. Will have to keep an eye out for that being stocked.
@jivesinger I was hoping it would save some money. I don’t have any data on the current cost though, was just presuming it was a big cost item on the daily electric bill.
I have one of these plug in my testbed. They are an easy way make any single device ‘smart’ (if it’s not turn off my its own switch).
It sound like you want to retrofit existing downlights. If there is just a single downlight, then this is the way to go. It more likely you have multiple downlights on the same circuit, so this will add up$. You can swap the switch with a deta or brilliant wifi switch, or the brilliant wifi dimmer.
