Australia - Electrically Certified Hardware

Hi mr.sneezy
I think I used the TUYA smart life app rather than grid connect. Just follow the instructions in the app.
Add ("+") a new device, select from “security and sensors” , “Motion Detector” and then “Motion Detector (Bluetooth)”. Put the device in paring mode using the internal button.

I do have the device kind of working on Esphome and HA. I’m using the ESP32 as a bluetooth tracker and sensing the bluetooth signal strength for the motion sensor. The motion sensor wakes up when it detects movement and the bluetooth tracker sees it. This approach wouldn’t work for the contact sensors. I can’t get battery level.
The additional problem is that there is a regular wakeup (every 5 min in my case). This might actually be the bluetooth tracker starting a new scan and causing the motion sensor to respond. I’ve done some dodgy code to handle this. Since I’ve only using this to put a fan on a timer, this solution is adequate for me. It wouldn’t be suitable for alarms etc. My Esphome yaml is below, (add in your own WIFI config etc, and BLE mac address for your motion sensor following the instructions in Esphome docs):

substitutions:
  # device id
  plug_id: eh_esp32_cam1


# ESP32-CAM
esphome:
  name: ${plug_id}
  platform: ESP32
  board: esp32dev

globals:
  - id: time_hb
    type: int 
  - id: time_now
    type: int 
  - id: time_detect
    type: int 

# Enable logging
logger:
  level: VERBOSE

api:

ota:

time:
  - platform: homeassistant
    id: homeassistant_time

esp32_ble_tracker:
  scan_parameters:
     interval: 25ms
     window: 25ms
     duration: 30min
     active: False

sensor:
  - platform: ble_rssi
# Change to your detected mac address 
    mac_address: D6:32:01:4D:23:BC
    name: "PIR BLE  RSSI value"
    internal: true
    force_update: true
    on_raw_value:
      then:
        - script.execute: script_fire_pir
  

binary_sensor:
  - platform: template
    id: template_pir
    name: "WC PIR sensor"

script:
  - id: script_fire_pir
    then:
      - if:
          condition:
            - script.is_running: script_fire_pir_actual
          then:
            - script.stop: script_fire_pir_actual
      - script.execute: script_fire_pir_actual
  - id: script_fire_pir_actual
    then:
      - if:
          condition:
            lambda: |-
                // time_hb is last assumed heartbeat time
                // time_now is now
                // time_detect is the last assumed real detection
                id(time_now) = id(homeassistant_time).now().timestamp;
                if ( id(time_hb) == 0 )  id(time_hb) = id(time_now) ; 
                if ( id(time_detect) == 0 )  id(time_detect) = 9 ;  //id(time_now) ; 
                ESP_LOGD( "main",  "time_hb  %i time_detect %i  " , (int) time_hb , (int) time_detect ) ;
                auto gap_hb = ((id(time_now) - id(time_hb)) % 1800 );
                auto gap_detect = ((id(time_detect) - id(time_hb)) % 1800 );
                ESP_LOGD( "main",  "gap_hb  %i gap_detect %i  " , (int) gap_hb , (int) gap_detect ) ;
                auto gap_hb_bool = ((( gap_hb > 298 ) || (  gap_hb < 2 ) ));
                auto gap_detect_bool = (( gap_detect > 1798 ) || ( ( gap_detect < 3 ) && (gap_detect >=0) ));
                //auto gap_detect_bool = ((( gap_detect < 1798 ) && (  gap_detect > 2 ) ));
                if ( gap_hb_bool  || gap_detect_bool )  {
                       id(time_hb) = id(time_now) ;  
                   } else {
                       id(time_detect) = id(time_now) ; 
                   }
                ESP_LOGD( "main",  "time_hb  %i time_detect %i  " , (int) time_hb , (int) time_detect ) ;
                return  !(gap_hb_bool || gap_detect_bool);
          then:
            - logger.log: "Looks like a real detection"
            - binary_sensor.template.publish:
                id: template_pir
                state: ON
            - delay: 3s #${auto_delay_quick}
            - binary_sensor.template.publish:
                id: template_pir
                state: OFF
          else:
            - logger.log: "Looks like a heartbeat, (or scan response or battery level transmit)"

1 Like

Hey All,

I purchased the Arlec Smart LED Globes (CWWW, Not the RGBWW ones) which converted fine using tuya-convert however after using more or less the same ESPHome config that I used with “Connect Smart” globes from Harvey Norman they behaved very oddly in HA. After some poking at the black box, it looked like one GPIO on the ESP8266 controlled brightness and the other controlled the colour temp. This doesn’t seem to work with any of the components in ESPHome that i could find so I thouoght I would have a go. I have published the custom light component on GitHub in case anyone else get these globes.

The caveat that I would say is that there is some ability to calibrate the colour’s using the default CWWW component in ESPHome that you will not get with this, and the brightness does not appear overly linear so I wouldn’t mix them with other lights (not that I would anyway) but it works.

This should work with anything else that uses a BP5926 to control the LED’s with possibly some changes to the GPIO assignment in the ESPHome YAML config file.

Hi All,
Just Successfully flashed and made a Tasmota template for Brilliant Smart GU10 - RGB+W bulb.

Model Number: 20888

Have submitted to the blakadder template site (not up yet)

Template Below

{"NAME":"BS-GU10-20888","GPIO":[0,0,0,0,140,38,0,0,37,142,141,0,0],"FLAG":0,"BASE":18}

1 Like

Hi all,
I just found out that IKEA’s Fyrtur and Kadrilj smart blinds (zigbee) are now available in Australia - see https://www.ikea.com/au/en/p/fyrtur-block-out-roller-blind-wireless-battery-operated-grey-90408207/

I believe there is already a support built-in to HA, however, I don’t have a link handy and it’s too late to research it on my phone.

4 Likes

These have been long awaited by many. Keen to hear how they stack up…

Link https://templates.blakadder.com/brilliantsmart_20888.html

2 Likes

Anyone use the NUE range from 3A Smart home?

Considering getting a bunch of their plates, in wall inline switches and downlights unsure on the quality, and bigger question, do i go WIFI or Zigbee and use my Philips HUE hub, confirmed that all items will pair up

Interesting to see they only have a 300W per gang limit. Ok if you are using LED bulbs but what happens if someone happens to put old 100w bulbs in and you have 4 or 5 on the circuit?
Most others seem to be 600W upward…

1 Like

Got them a month ago, had nothing but problems with them so far trying to pair with Zigbee2mqtt.
Couldn’t pair them to a Tradfri gateway no matter how hard I tried too.
Had 4, returned 1 and the gateway for now…

If you have a search for cwww2 in esphome threads there is another component that handles this setup.

1 Like

Got bored over the weekend and decided i need to replace my old crappy 80s lights in the lounge. Went to bunnings and grabbed a couple of the verve LED oyster style lights.

Flashed with tasmota. They work quiet well, just a bit pricey

Quick Video:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/6cLmifvboaGOjjkLSIoPEipy1CIFZoWjQm4U7VuLk_o_-Jfgy_3ZQh_g-fG7CmFm09WUHDgO5HpleQ=m37

1 Like

@IamDan how are the Verve lights powered ?

240v from the existing lighting circuit

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Looks good but only go upto 140cm wide. most of my windows where i would have them are 180cm

shame

So, it got the better of me a little earlier, and I mustered the courage to pulled the Arlec Hub apart. The base is glued on pretty well, so you need to get some solid plastic to work your way around to detach the adhesive. Once done, however, it would be easily replaced.
This is what I saw…


Seems as if this particular chipset is Tuya generic (https://fccid.io/2ANDL-TYGWB1/User-Manual/User-Manual-3963010) and is spread across a large number of vendors. In theory there would be no issue Tasmotizing the Wifi part of this, but where my experience and expertise gets REALLY fuzzy is what the interaction will look like with the Bluetooth module.
The current hub operation relies on firstly connecting it to a WiFi network, and then pairing the smaller ancillary devices via the app.
Given this is my first time tinkering with one of these kinds of modules, I’ve tested (successfully) pairing and configuring using the Grid Connect app and the TuyaSmart app.
I guess its going to be easy to integrate into HA using the Tuya integration, but it’s by no means ideal. If you, or anyone, can shed light on getting the WiFi part to work in conjunction with the Bluetooth Mesh part, I would think this would be a nice off the shelf solution (even with the price tag) given that some of the other equivalent lower cost alternatives are having supply constraints, what with COVID, and all.

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I’d be interested to know if the sensors are truly BLE mesh compliant. If they are it should make things much easier since the spec for BLE mesh is freely available. Can you see if you can pair any of the sensors with one of the BLE mesh debugging apps like ST BLE Mesh?

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@milwhite, Thanks for the suggestion. I’ve tried the debugging app you recommended and, sadly, it fails to detect any of the three devices that came with the Arlec Sensor Kit (with and without pairing mode enabled).
I can, however, see multiple devices that would likely be the sensors when I do a Bluetooth sweep using the phone’s discovery. Two of the three devices (the contact sensor and the Temp/Humidity sensor) appear as “tymesh158018128” whereas the third (the PIR sensor) appears as “Triones-FFF400093”. To be 100% sure this is the case I need to power on each, one by one, and see what comes back… which I will do shortly.
When tapped (attempted pairing at OS level) I get the “Couldn’t Pair…” message which I guess would be normal?
So… in short, the phone seems to be able to see them whereas the the STBLEMesh app cannot. I am using the default settings of the App, so I guess it’s worth asking… Is there anything I should be doing to configure it so it behaves differently, and in doing so change the detection behaviour?

EDIT: All Devices share the same name - tymesh158018128, with the MAC address being the differentiating each. The test was to see when they became visible in the scanner (in this case I used BLE Scanner by Bluepixel - bluepixeltech.com). The PIR sensor appeared when it detected movement, the contact sensor when contact was broken, the temp/humidity sensor when its transmit mode was changed, and the hub when it was POPO’d.

I just noticed STM has a disclaimer about it only working with their dev boards which I don’t remember being there last time I worked with BLE mesh gear. Try the app from SILabs, you may have more luck with that. If that doesn’t work, i’m all out of ideas sorry :frowning:.

This is awesome. I’m looking to do something like this.
One question though. Did you install them yourself? Don’t you need a sparky to do it? (unless you are one :wink: )

I did them myself. You probably do need a sparky. My brother is, he has his A grade and HV tickets. I just video called him to show him my work.
I am an auto-elec so im pretty confident with wiring