You might find that there is a slight delay too when pushing the button. Or if you double tap the 1st switch it will activate the 2nd switch. By default multi push is on, it is handy if you like the button to have several functions. Personally I hated the delay in the response time and it confused people with the delay and they would push it again. Confusing them even more when another light came on.
If you just want it to respond like a normal on/off switch and don’t care about multi push features open the console for the switch and use the command “SetOption13 1” to set the switch to single touch. It will then act like a normal switch and response times will be drastically improved
Guys, Just got a 4 pack of the Kogan Plugs with 2 x USB and Power monitor - it was a doddle to setup in Tuya Convert, then added the appropriate adapter from the Blackadder site.
I have calibrated the unit with a Killawatt meter inline.
I am monitoring the raw MQTT at the moment and the Total Power seems very weird.
I have set the Volts to 248 and the current of my dryer as 1750 (which is what the KillAwatt reports and the Dryer manual states as the max)
I have run the dryer for approx 1 hour today and it is telling me the total power is 17.438 - it appears that this is actually 10x as much as the dryer is actually using - anyone have any ideas ?
Actually just looking now and i think it might be because i set the timezone and dst from the console after it started so it thinks it has been running much longer than it actually has ?
Picked up an Arlec smart plug PC399HA and it appears to be using the newer firmware that TuyaConvert doesn’t support yet (PSK issue above).
It also appears to have security screws that have a “Tri-groove”-like pattern from above, although the screw has a rounded and not conical top. Anyone know where I might find a driver or bit?
I opened it with one of those dual spade bits with a gap in the middle… It managed to catch onto two of the three grooves. When I put it back together I used Phillips head screws instead.
Hi all… I now have a few of the Harvey Norman / Zemismart switched installed and working (three 1-gangs), and am about to book the electrician to install a bunch more (two more 1-gangs, two 2-gangs and three 3-gangs… all flashed and ready to go—thanks for everyone’s help!).
Before I book in though, I need to make a call about how one of my switches is installed. I currently have one light (in our entryway) connected to a two-way switch setup (one switch is part of a dumb 2-gang downstairs, the other is part of a dumb 3-gang upstairs).
I believe (feel free to connect me) that I could get two-way switching on this by just getting the new smart switches wired “normally” (i.e. not as a two-way) at one end (and not connecting to the other switch physically), and setting up a master/slave relationship in Tasmota between the two switches. As I understand it, this would work as a two-way switch even if HA is down (so long as the WiFi is up).
However, in the interests of high wife/guest/child-acceptance factor, and improved “switches still work as expected even if everything falls over”, I’d like to get set things up so they still work even when there are no smarts whatsoever (i.e. no WiFi).
Does anyone know if there is any way to:
Wire smart switches as per the existing wiring (i.e. a proper two-way switch setup), AND
Have HA reflect the actual state of the light itself (rather than the state of a given individual switch) (I realise I could use a sensor dependent on the state of both switches… but wait… I want more…), AND
Have the switches themselves (i.e. the little red LED) show the state of the light itself (i.e. red for on, blue/off (depending on Tasmota config… current off for mine) for off—at both switches).
Needy I know, but thought I’d put it out there and get thoughts so I know what to tell the sparkies!
Thanks in advance!
FYI… putting this question in this thread, so I don’t responses that propose non-Australian wiring solutions (most of the other discussions related to this are about North American (some UK) wiring options)—and I’m sure others could use this info in implementing these and other AU-certified hardware. All that being said… happy to move this to a new thread if that would be most appropriate).
This does (2) and (3) from above, but means that the “slave” switch does nothing if the WiFi is down (and would likely necessitate getting the switches rewired if I ever sell the house).
Hi @Takaraz… thanks again for that SetOption13 tip… works well! I’ve used it on two of my three installed 1-gang panels (the third runs a sensor controlled outside floodlights, so I’m going to try a double-click to run a quick on-off-on automation that will hopefully out the floodlights into “perma-on” mode).
I’m about to book the electricians to install the rest of my 1, 2 and 3-gang panels—do you know if its possible to apply it to a single switch in a multi-gang panel? I did a bit of digging on the Tasmota docs, but couldn’t find any syntax that would support it, but thought I’d ask.
EDIT: Of course I find a config listed after having manually figured it out myself: https://templates.blakadder.com/arlec_PC399HA.html
This didn’t show in a google search for me, and I hadn’t known of the site.
(Note: I didn’t need to desolder the C4B capacitor to flash the device)
