It’s much nicer to replace the rocker switches with push-buttons. You can get them either in the old styles or as the very nicer / expensive Clipsal Saturn 4000 series. (that’s what I used in my old house, looks mint) Also, you can use a combination of rocker and pushbuttons in the same wall plate, and even fan controls.
Also look at the Yeelights (cheap on Banggood). I use them at the moment because I’m in a rental, and just control them using Xiaomi wireless buttons.
Ah sweet, will check out for sure.
Any idea if we can use something like the Aetoec dimmer switch for fan control?
yes, they support fan control up to 100W.
mind blown!
So in that case for a fan light combo, you’d need an aeotec dimmer and switch?
I can see though you wouldn;t bother as the cost of the nano switch outway the cost a smart globe.
or 2x dimmers so one controls fan speed and the other can dim the light. Plus: using dimmers escapes needing a neutral wire at the switch which would very rarely be there.
Yep, smart globes (eg: Yeelight) are far cheaper than Australian z-wave devices. We get screwed here.
In regard to those TRIAC motors you referred to, would any fan running a DC motor that has a wireless remote be compatible?
not sure what ‘TRIAC motors’ you are referring to. TRIAC’s are a device that is used to switch (at very high speed) AC power. Ceiling fans have AC motors in them and these devices are only good for AC. There may be fans around that have inbuilt conversion to DC and run DC motors… but I have not dealt with such. In theory they would still work with these dimmers as no product on the market is designed to control DC at the light switch (which is AC) as a replacement for a standard switch or fan controller. Do you have a link?
Not much in the way of technical details 
https://www.fansonline.com.au/ceiling-fans/indoor-ceiling-fans.html
Yep, so as I expected those fans have in-built AC to DC conversion and speed control. You wouldn’t be able to use ANY kind of dimmer or fan controller on the wall to control those fans as all the control must be done within the use, ie: using the supplied remote. If you wanted ti integrate into HA you would need to replicate the supplied remote. Not sure from the image as to whether the remote uses IR or RF but either could be done through HA using the appropriate hardware. My opinion, get a standard fan if you want to use HA since the integration will be simpler with a z-wave dimmer. Otherwise you will need either an IR transmitter in each room, or if they are RF then an RF transmitter within range. Neither of those options give you feedback. At least with a z-wave dimmer HA will known if someone turned the fan on locally
Sweet, this makes a lot of sense and totally agree, simpler is better and then I can make it smart.
My brother and brother in law are sparkies so I won’t be installing this stuff myself 
I’d say yes, at least with the Hue hub I’ve never had any issues at all. Bulbs and light strips appear in HA with full support for dimming and colour change.
You may need a bit more patience - IKEA keeps delaying the launch, latest rumours I’ve heard indicate April 2019…
How did you update the firmware on the aeotec switchss?
If you have the Aeotec USB stick - you can download the firmware (including the updater) for each device from their website, stick the USB stick into your PC and run the firmware update over-the-air. Works on Windows only.
So I have my set of proof of concept kit, 5th gen zwave usb stick, aeotec multisensor and aeotec smart power point.
@exxamalte what polling interval and polling intensity did you set it to on the switch node to get it updating in 3 seconds. Currently it doesn’t appear to updating on HA at all if i activate device physically.
Hey mate, personally I use sonoff basics and Shelly 1’s/2’s behind my switches. They are cheap at around $8 each and just need some wire soldered to them and firmware such as Tasmota flashed.
Riley.
I currently don’t have any polling interval set for any of my switches, i.e. I don’t have a device_config set underneath zwave. I did experiment with polling_intensity but that had not tangible effect at the time, so I removed that configuration again.
Have you checked your OZW_Log.txt to see if there is actually any data arriving for your switch node when you use the physical switch? Or is there maybe even an error message for that node?
I did have issues with one Nano switch for a while that was included securely and which just became unresponsive after a couple of weeks. I had to “restart” it by toggling the circuit breaker. The physical switch was still able to turn on/off the lights, but no communication with HA anymore, and OZW_Log.txt showed that communication with the switch wasn’t working anymore. I had no more such issues after I upgraded the firmware of that switch.
Thanks for that guidance, I ended up tinkering and implemented the polling intensity switch and polling frequency and that has rectified my situation.
Hi Chris_Burg,
I hope you are well, I am in a similar situation to you, I read this thread, If you have time I was interested in any feedback/updates you might have based on any lessons learnt.
I am keen to understand what you use for the Hub and any specific brands you use for lighting/dimmer/switches etc
I am planning to smartify lighting/ cooling/ IP cameras/ Garage door/ etc as a first step and scale once I get my head around it.
Cheers,
Gary
You might like to search the below thread being that this one is 2.5 years since last post.
Thanks Kanga_who