My hub had been fairly stable for the last 4 days with no disconnections, however this morning it went offline around 00:05 for two hours and then again at 04:56 and hasn’t reconnected yet!!
I’m not at home so can’t check the status light, have remotely rebooted router but still nothing. Has anyone noticed anything this morning? Just hoping it’s not a failed firmware update or something that may have bricked it.
I am a fairly inexperienced HA user but I have just managed to create a couple of template sensors from sensor.wiser_heating attributes. (flow temp & percentage demand)
When I get a couple of days of data I’ll post a graph for you. (hopefully )
At this time you just have to accept it going offline - need to wait for firmware update to fix. Currently happening between 1 and 2 times a day (fortunately system recovers within the hour without intervention most of the time).
For all us heating geeks, thought you would like to see what I have been working on using graphana to look at what is using gas, how much and can I amend my schedules to make more efficient. So far, first stage of having the data in a way I can start to look at it. Next stage, shift some of the schedules to heat rooms at the same time to see if less gas used. In particular the morning where I heat the bedroom, landing and kitchen from 7:30 and then start heating my office at 9. Both show very similar demand profile - question to answer - would it be more efficient to do at the same time?
This is so funny, I was thinking the precise thing today! FWIK the more rooms you heat simultaneously the more efficient the boiler is. It has to heat up the water in all the pipe flowing to the rads (flow mainly) before the boiler will stop. And once a room has reached its temp, the excess heat is just wasted .
Gut feeling is batch the rads together if possible.
I have a question about the climate entities exposed by the integration, and how they act when exposed to Google Assistant.
I expose various HA entities to Google Assistant using Home Assistant Cloud, and when I previously had a Nest thermostat (which I also exposed to Google Assistant via HA) it worked well. However since upgrading to Wiser, a climate entity set to “Auto” looks like this in the Google Home app (and on Google Home displays):
The target temperature dial is not movable, and the target temperature is not displayed. This wasn’t the case when I had Nest - despite being on a schedule like Wiser is, you could override the target temperature (as indeed you can with Wiser in the HA interface itself). Anyone know why this is different?
BUT… remember the amount of water in the pipes is fairly minimal compared to the water in the rads. And water in rads you have turned off will NOT be pumped around the system. So when you’re only heating one room, the amount of water in the system is effectively reduced quite a lot, so the firing time of the boiler should be shorter to get it all up to temperature.
Whether that’s more efficient will depend though, on heat loss from the rooms, whether your boiler is modulating, whether you take into account additional wear on the componets by shorter cycles, and oh no I’ve gone cross-eyed
I created a couple of custom sensors to pull data from the history of “sensor.wiser_heating” and tell me how long the heating has been on today, and how long it was on yesterday. I can graph the second sensor to tell me how long it’s been on per day, similar to the graph you get in the wiser app. Is that the kind of thing you mean?
It does not play well with Google home as Google home has no auto setting, which is why it looks like this. We never really found a good answer to this.
It is a somewhat modified frient electric meter device with the light sensor for a electric meter replaced with a hall sensor module. Took a bit of messing around to get it working but no works really well on my victoriana dumb gas meter!
Like the freint as is zigbee and battery powered but you can not get a sensor for anything other than led flashes. However, £3 off ebay for a hall sensor board (this was the second one I tried because the first one would read too many false pulses) a 4 pin 3.5mm plug to terminal connector and some blue tack and hey presto! No soldering, no hacking the friend, just plug in this new sensor and set the pulses to 100 plus a template sensor to convert m3 to kWh.