Ahhh. Ok.
I wasn’t thinking of updates more frequent than daily, for billing purposes.
Insights for me is often flaky. Most evenings I can’t make a connection. Connecting During the day is almost always ok.
That’s very good, this week so far I’m at 344kWh. This is in a 4 bed detached house with h 13 radiators. Outside temps have been single figures all week.
The usage is pretty accurate with Geo, but the cost per kWh does not update very frequently, so on Octopus Agile it’s is completely wrong more often that not. This is likely because the Smart Meter gets the rate from Octopus, then sends it to the Geo IHD - and we know that smart meters aren’t all that good at communicating.
OMG. Similar house with same number of rads and i am at 750kwh. And that is after my project last year to fix issues which reduced it by about 25%. Think i need to do more work! 
I’m in a Semi with 3 bedrooms, 9 rads. I have been playing schedules, it can make a MASIVE difference in how you heat the rooms, I would be glad to show my current schedules, if it was of interest.
yeah been single here too, got down to 0.2˚c here last night, been under 4˚c all day today.
graphs from last 24 hours
here you can see the difference in boiler demand, just by tweaking the shedules / target room temps, and today was colder than yesterday.
25 degrees in the bedroom, in the middle of the day…
What’s going on in there???
suns out, entering a small bedroom with door closed.
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Not the answer I imagined, but if you can get that radiator to regenerate, you’ll use a whole lot less gas!!
of you have Octopus you should ask them for a Octopus Home Mini, and use the Octopus integration
haha, ye, I getting external insulation fitted next year (already booked-in), I’m hope that will help save me GAS, as my cavity wall can not be filled (70’s house it full of crap when the house was built, the builders seemed to have thrown all the rubbish in there), once thats done, I’ll be then looking at Solar.
For a moment i was feeling disappointed with my gas usage but having seen yours i feel alot better 
If you have door/window contact sensors, it’d be preferrable to use them and automate switching heating off/on based on true door/window states.
Yes, the Hidlebrand Glow does local MQTT provision of your smart meter data.
I find the live data provided by the Hildebrand Glow really useful, as we know instantly when we are exporting to the grid. I have an automation setup to announce, plus notifications to our phones, when we are exporting over a certain threshold and telling us it’s a good time to run home appliances e.g. washing machine, tumble dryer, dishwasher etc to maximise use of our solar energy production. We do not have any battery storage, so any excess production is exported back to the grid, which is basically lost energy due to the pittence that is paid for it.
About a week ago I was trying to fix an issue with three iTRVs which, it turned out, were fixed by changing the batteries. That was even though the battery level in each case was still showing 80%. I’ve now had another do the same thing, although at least this time I was able to go straight to it.
The symptom is that the valve isn’t closing, even though it’s been told to, resulting in runaway temperature rise (as long as something else is calling for heat, which at present is quite a lot of the time).
I’m now scratching my head as to how I can get HA to alert me to this possibility. The hub (and therefore the integration) thinks the valve is closed, so there’s nothing to be gained by looking at that.
Has anyone tried coding an automation that, say, once an hour goes and has a look at each zone and raises an alert if the temperature is going up even though the valve is meant to be off? Or is there a better way? It wouldn’t be critical if there were a few false alarms - all I want is to be prodded into having a look at the graph myself.
you could try setting an derivation sensor under “helper”. if it monitors the real temperature while “heating the room” is “off” you could set a threshold for the notification to be issued then.
the derivation should be higher the faster the temperature rises
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One of mine starting doing that a week or so ago.
It probably started when we put the heating on as it dropped cold, but I didn’t notice it immediately. All the iTRV’s were showing 20% battery, which have gradually dropped from 100% over the summer.
(Next year, I’ll remove the batteries for summer).
I tried a re-calibrate, which didn’t fix it.
Replaced the batteries and did a re-calibrate, which still didn’t fix it.
Had a google about and noted others with a similar problem had swapped their iTRV’s to different radiators, which ‘fixed’ it.
September last year, we had a new boiler, the radiators flushed, lockshield & control valves replaced and new manual TRV’s fitted. I thought I’d try and test/check the control valve itself, to ensure it was shutting off the flow when required.
Easiest way was to re-fit a manual TRV head. Did this and it worked ok.
Re-fitted the iTRV. Re-calibrated. Still not shutting off completely…
So I fashioned a 1mm thick shim and put that on top of the valve pin, then fitted the iTRV.
Its working ok now, but I’ll keep an eye on it for a while.
Edit:
I’m trying to find if there is a spec for the force on the pin to close the valve.
Can’t find anything so far.