If you have a hub, this integration lets you set a target temp for x minutes, which is the same principle as boost. BTW, boost is limited to +3C but default setting on integration is 2C. This can be changed in configure->Main parameters.
EDIT: Also add that many people who have tried using Z2M say the TRV does not keep its set temp. Dont know if that has changed.
Thanks for the info Mark. In my experience, so far it seems to be keeping the Set Point. What I do see is widely fluctuating vales for pi_heating_demand - the percentage the valve is open.
How is the changing to āoilā going for stopping cycling? Wiser doesnt work great in my new place and Im wondering if putting it to oil works betterā¦
Iāll do it anyway and see, but whats your experience so far?
It wonāt stop cycling, but does reduce it.
When the mode is set to Gas, the boiler is fired every 10 mins. (Assuming heat is required).
The boiler goes through a start up routine of purge, etc, then takes a little time to get to temperature on each occasion, before it can actually provide heat to the system. Even if only a short burst of heat is required. So the boiler startup can be a significant proportion of the energy required.
When the mode is set to Oil, that only happens every 20mins.
So the purge and boiler heating time is reduced to once in 20mins,
If the cycling you had in mind was because the boiler canāt modulate low enough before the heat is taken away, it probably wonāt help with that. That likely needs higher water flow to help.
IMHO.
Setting it to Oil also increases the minimum on time from 2 minutes to 4 minutes which is a good thing in my opinion. I run my gas fired boiled in Oil mode without any problems and have done so all of last winter.
The thing that is more noticeable in Oil mode is that the heating doesnāt come on when you program a temperature increase, it waits until the start of the next 20 minute time slot before the boiler fires. My time slots currently start at 7, 27 and 47 minutes past the hour but this does change occasionally (at intervals of several months) and I havenāt found any way to control when the time slots start.
thanks, coincidentally we raised the boiler temp today (for a totally different reason), so lets see if this makes a difference
Information for anyone interested:-
Because of some āstrangenessā that occurs with the boiler randomly, (equates to around once a month), Iāve added some extra temperature monitoring. Including a Ktype pushed into the boiler exhaust / flue pipe on the outside wall.
The graphs show the flue temperature only ever gets to around 55C.
I expected that temperature to be much higher, but maybe thatās the condensing feature in action?
The other temperature sensors are on the boiler inlet and outlet pipes and one on the outside wall.
The temperature profile varies slightly. The first cycle shown is when the timer for the HW tank comes on at 06:30hrs.
The subsequent cycles are when the Heating comes on at 07:15hrs. The inlet water temperature is significantly lower initially as the associated radiators are cold. The boiler is set to max 70C and can be seen to shut the burner off at 07:50hrs when that temperature is reached. (Presumably, it canāt modulate low enough to stop the outlet increasing above 70C).
The lower graph shows when the boiler & pump are powered and when the boiler burner fires.
(Amplitudes are not significant, just indicates On or Off) .
I canāt see the Wiser system having anything to do with it, but:-
A couple of times over a month or so, I noticed there was little or no hot water at lunchtime to do the washing up.
I eventually decided to look back at the temperatures logged in HA to see if there was anything out of the ordinary.
Sure enough, instead of the boiler firing continuously, on a couple of occasions, it showed the burner was constantly switching on and off. But I couldnāt tell if the pump was actually pumping during the period for sure, or may be the cause of the problem.
This is the most recent example, not in the morning but during the day. but this also gives the best indication, that the pump does continue to run during that period. I wondered if the pump could be the cause but this seems to rules it out.
When the pump is running, the temperature decay rate of the inlet and outlet water temperatures is far greater than when the pump switches off. Which makes sense to me.
So it must be an issue somehow with the boiler.
This is very nice to have this data. Could really geek out on that. If you add the hw state sensor to this graph, it will show whether the wiser relay was on constantly on or on/off to prove if wiser or boiler,
I had an issue similar to this. Assuming you have a combi boiler, Are you finding in general the domestic hot water temperature is much lower? Does the boiler try, get the water warm, then shut off?
My issue: We had recently installed a couple of new radiators. I didnāt know you needed to flush the manufacturing crud out before install (clearly neither did the installer) and this settled in the heat exchanger, blocking it up. The boiler switches off if a temp differential over a limit is detected (Or simply trips as the feed temperature rises beyond limits)
You may have similar issues.
Bit of a random one, but Iāve always found my north facing walls that have radiators on, always report a much colder temp on the TRV than the room actually is.
This causes these rooms to call for heat very briefly then shut off after a few minutes.
I got a bit of radiator foil and cut a piece to make a semi circle shielding the TRV from the wall and from the side of the radiator.
Took a couple of days for it to recalibrate itself, but now the temps reported are way more stable.
Someone needs to make a little TRV heat shield to clip on!
No. Not a combi, itās a sytem boiler. So there is only one temperature setting.
The HA traces show the inlet/outlet temperature differential and doesnāt show as high at the problem time. If an internal sensor is intermittantly giving incorrect readings, that would cause it.
The boiler is a relatively new replacement and included a āMagnacleanā water filter. The whole system was flushed as part of the boiler replacement work. After a prolonged flush, there was only clear water flowing, prior to the the boiler being connected and Fernox being added. It was serviced 12 months ago and is due again now.
Iāll ask the boiler guy if he has any ideas when he comes.
just incase anyone in the UK is looking for the wiser smart plug, they are on sale atm here https://mwphs.co.uk/product/drayton-wiser-smart-plug-wb704h1a0902/ Ā£27.99
and the Wiser Thermostat Display White is only Ā£48 / ā¬58 here Merten Wiser Room Thermostat with Display, Smart Home, Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Assistant, Control via APP, Easy Installation and Save Energy : Amazon.de: DIY & Tools
and Black is Ā£41 ā¬49 Schneider Electric Wiser Smart Home Room Thermostat, Control via Display or with Free App, Compatible with Amazon Alexa and Google Home, Energy Saving, Zigbee : Amazon.de: DIY & Tools
thanks, I was after another plug to strengthen the network
Ā£54 for the white one here too if you donāt want to use Amazon https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/thermostats/2768760?gb=s
Sorry, a bit off-topic, but there seems to be a lot of knowledge around, so maybe someone can help. Using a basic Wiser install (hubR + Roomstat) in a small house for >1 year. No complaints so far. A few days ago Iāve been offered a too-good-to-miss deal for some used Wiser devices (6 x TRVs, 1 x hub, 1 x Roomstat, for ~115 GBP) from a decomissioned system. Checked the app to remember how devices are added and, strangely, it looked that it is impossible to add any new devices.
Android app, latest version (6.12.2). With no better idea in mind, I started downgrading the app one version at a time, down to 6.9.0, where suddenly the āAdd deviceā screen got back to normal. Any ideas on the cause/solution? Maybe worth mentioning that the app is installed via an alternate app store, since my country is not officially supported/covered by Wiser. Could it be that the latest versions are somehow trying to stronger enforce the device availability depending on location? I am currently planning to add the devices using the old app and then upgrade to the latest version, since it seems to have no impact on already installed devices. Thanks for any suggestions!
Buy an iPhone 
Iād put the latest version back on the phone then clear the Appdata/cache.
Signing out the app and back in again may have same effect.
Thanks!
iPhone is a no go. I use an iPad, but itās even worse, since due to my unsupported location I cannot install the app at all. Alternate app stores are just a joke and sideloading seems more complicated than on Android (jailbreak only?).
To the point: already did what you suggest. Started by signing out and back in, then clearing data/cache and finally uninstalling completely and reinstalling. Same behavior. Seems to be app version related.
OK, you could try bypassing the app and run the following curl command on a linux terminal to put the hub in join mode.
curl -i \
-H "Content-Type: application/json" \
-H "SECRET: [YOUR SECRET KEY]" \
-X PATCH -d 0 \
http://[YOUR HUB IP]/data/v2/domain/System/RequestPermitJoin
replacing the items in [] brackets (including the brackets).
EDIT: This will not necessarily fully replace the app setup (as that lets you set parameters like name etc), but think you will be able to change the necessary settings after it has joined
EDIT2: This will be a button in the integration in a future update.
EDIT3: Should add as just been testing. The line
-X PATCH -d 0 \
needs to be
-X PATCH -d 120 \
for a roomstat. Not sure if any other device type is also different. TRVs, UFH, LoadControllers, Smartplugs all use 0.
Hmm, interesting, thanks! Something I will try during the weekend.