What a pity, I am so sorry. I checked and it seems that ALL of Fuji’s units have this limitation.
Appreciate you checking 
If I can figure out zone control I could replace it with a tablet or another form of controller. I’ll look into it more.
Hello everyone thanks for your project. I have a small business in dubai for smart home products but i have a problem with fujitsu general aircon I don’t have a solution for it , can i make it with esp32 and with tuya platform and using it with a phone?
Hi @FOSV
This is the first time I am trying to use JCLPCB or Gerber files etc. so it is probably user error.
My understanding is that if I put everything into JCLPCB it should spit out (deliver!) a built PCB board.
I can upload the .zip file and go through the options (just left as default!) and then select PCB assembly.
When I go through to the next screens it asks for a BOM and PCL file.
These don’t seem to be in the .zip or in the GitHub.
Am I doing something wrong?
Thanks for any help
John
Hi, @gorstj !
The production process of the Fuji-Atom Interface is designed to be divided into 3 parts:
- PCB production
- Procurement of the components
- Hand soldering of the components by the end user
The reason for this is that choosing a different but compatible component (depending on supplier availability) could affect in someway the pick and place machine path and resulting in a file error that I could not correct for each of you.
Also, this project is clearly aimed at people who are familiar with soldering and electronics in general for whom the third process step is absolutely trivial.
To overcome this “problem” I had already been proposed to produce a small batch to sell to you, but I do not have time for that, sorry.
Thank you for being interested in the project, have a nice day!
P.S.:
Since the PCB is designed for SMT (Surface-Mount Technology), you need to ask the PCB manufacturer to provide you the solder paste stencil, you can find it under “SMT-Stencil”.
Than you can easily follow this procedure:
- Apply solder paste to the PCB using the solder paste stencil (the principle is that of a stencil, precisely);
- Place the components with tweezers (pay attention to components orientation);
- Heat the PCB around 150°-250°C (depends on the solder paste) with a hot air gun or a heating plate and watch as if by magic the components solder themselves!
This procedure is much easier and safer if done by heated plate instead of hot air gun.
So basically, you will need three things:
- Heating Plate (also known as Reflow Station)
- Solder paste
- Tweezers
Here’s a cheap Heating Plate on AliExpress.
Anyone know what port this is?
Model ASYG09KMCC
This is behind the plastic cover with the wifi logo and 2 LED cut outs.
This really looks like a Grove port
and it actually fits!
From left to right, 14V+, GND, data?, 5V+
The service manual says that is connector CN12, part number B04B-PASK-1.
13V, Ground, Undocumented, Undocumented.
Meant for connecting to wireless LAN adapter UTY-TFSXW1.
Also says to use communication kit UTY-TWBXF2 to connect remote control, so not sure if the same protocol is used on CN12 or not.
@patvdleer have you got anywhere with this unit?
I am getting a similar soon and a bit stuck with it.
Can’t take 3 wire remotes
Only thing I can see potentially working is tapping into the RX/TX output of the mainboard that is referenced in the github page. I think this is CN13 (port for communications board to attach to) but I can’t find any more information
@FOSV thanks for your help here - much appreciated. Sounds like a bit of a challenge! I am used to soldering ‘standard’ parts (badly) so this will be a new challenge!
For some reason the TPS82140SILR DC-DC converter seems to be out of stock everywhere with a very long lead time. Any ideas if there is a substitute?
The 10K resistor is out of stock but I think I should be able to find a suitable alternative for that.
RG2012P-103-B-T5 Resistor SMD 10K OHM 0.1% 1/8W 0805
Thanks for any ideas!
I’ve decided to take a different route here.
I think I have created a suitable custom PCB based on a combination of posts in this thread which has components that are available on JCLPCB for them to build (other than needing to solder on the headers). It is not as elegant as FSOV but is able to be built with components that are in stock.
Does anyone know the distance between the rows of headers on the Atom Lite? @FSOV what distance did you use
(I don’t have my Atom yet)
This is my first stab at building a PCB/circuit so grateful for any input or checking. If it works I will be aiming to publish the files and sell at cost any spare boards I have.
[removed links as lots now out of stock and there is a $3 extended component charge and they were all extended!]
[there are five header spaces, 2.54mm each, between the two rows of headers on the Atom Lite - i.e. total of 7 header sapces]
TPS82130SILR is a suitable replacement
@gorstj not yet, working on some code to test it out first but I’m not used to C/C++ this could take a while.
@Omniflux I’ll see if I can figure anything out when hooking it up to either a bus pirate or oscilloscope (when I get to it…)
Everething is good since february, except sometime miss a command and ambiant temperature is +1.5° C (2.7F) over the reel temperature.
Somebody have a way in the diffrent config file to adjust this error, that will be appreciate.
In the fujitsu manuel a can adjust the difference + or - with the temperature I want and the temperature the AC try to match but neither in my remote or wall remote i have the room temperature only the temperature i want. But in HA the ambiant temperature the AC report is offset.
- fujitsu.yaml
|- FujiHeatPump.cpp
|- FujiHeatPump.h
|- FujitsuClimate.cpp
|- FujitsuClimate.h
Actuel 24.6- 24.4C on 2 other thermometer in the room and AC report 26 C ?
Hey Iot experts
I’m about to aventure myself ordering some PCBs from China (PCBWay/JLBCPB or similar)
I’m about to move and the new place has a Fujitsu ducted heatpump.
I’m planning to implement this project using the services that print and solder the PCB for you, but one of the components, the LIN transceiver MCP2025 it’s not available at both PCBWay/JLBCPB.
I looked for an alternative that it’s in stock and I need help to understand if I can replace MCP2025 by the TLE7258SJXUMA1, or a better option.
My idea is to order the PCB ande just connect the NodeMCU at the top using the female connectors.
Dear David Greenberg,
I have 10 Fujitsu AC which use esphome and tasmota to control. But both of them only can control or turn off after turn on by remote.
This is my controller:
https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/1005005541358624.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.main.3.3a48601455XIac&algo_pvid=c2bdd908-90d6-49c1-880c-5ca104f2e8c7&algo_exp_id=c2bdd908-90d6-49c1-880c-5ca104f2e8c7-1&pdp_npi=3%40dis!VND!145864.0!83048.0!!!!!%4021021d7b16872595422404622d0786!12000033471009612!sea!VN!1615730237&curPageLogUid=Qfmlr3XYC3Zb
I will take part in your project, please tell me what to do
Thanks
@jgrolim
Do you have a UTY-DMMUM (Multi-Zone Central Remote Controller) that connects to the outdoor unit but can control each indoor unit individually?
I want to implement this, but do not have the controller to capture the existing protocol for decoding with.
I’m finally getting around to retrying this again with a new ESP32 board, this time wroom-32d instead of wroom-32e.
I believe the wroom-32e below which was my first board has this funky pin EN which I’m not sure what would happen if left unused… shuts down? probably may have been the cause of my wifi disconnections?
Update:
New ESP32 board behaved the same…
But I think I have sussed it out, and commented out the Wifi HOTSPOT Fallback and captive_portal configurations from the yaml. Seems to be looking promising in the 30mins I’m testing at the moment. Where previously, the ESP32 would go offline/reboot or disconnect from wifi/ESPHome/HA every 1 minute.
@Omniflux I’ll be moving to the new place in three weeks.
The Wall wired remote model I believe it’s UTY-CDPXZC
I still have to confirm if how many zones are avaialble.
I’ll update here as soon I get this info
