These plate drawing are great and should be enough for the front plate design. Do you have any idea about the work box that it’s mounting into? The clearances there are going to be the larger problem.
If I design a new UK plate, is there anyone who’ll volunteer to print it and test fit it for me?
I can print it and test (albeit in black or orange atm), the back boxes come in various depths (25mm/35mm/47mm, possibly others) and types, we have drywall boxes such as;
The top/bottom lugs there worry me which is why I’m looking for dimensions of the box itself. It appears that those boxes are substantially shorter and wider than the US boxes, and I’m at the absolute limit of the vertical space on the US boxes due to the size of the LCD.
Having said that, I’ve mocked up a plate matching the dimensions provided thus far: HASwitchPlate/3D_Printable_Models/HASwitchPlate_front_single_UK-UNTESTED.stl at master · aderusha/HASwitchPlate · GitHub
They can be folded back flat, (Its only the left/right fixing holes needed) ive had to do so to fit my Sonoff T1’s.
post #164 has my original mock up, Cura says 1h45 to print, so will give it a go shortly when i finish work 
OK, didnt manage to print last night, as had to rebuild the hotend as it didnt survive the house move 
as a result, the hotend used wasnt the best, but served the purpose for a quick test;
My observations;
Screen is a very tight fit into the recess, although could be my print
The screw holes are counter sunk on the print, but every faceplate ive seen in the UK is tubular/flat bottomed, and the screw heads are flat to mate.
The screw holes are a little tight, but that could be my print.
The sides could be made 2-3mm taller, which would move some of the unit further out of the rear box (see 3rd pic)
Great feedback! I can work on all of this. What sort of M3 screw heads do you expect to find in the UK for these plates? For example, in NA we use oval-heads which are countersunk (hence me making the UK version countersunk, whoops!).
I would love to support the effort you went to doing this project and purchase one (i build one 6 months ago without the 3d case) looks like there isn’t shipping all the way over here to AU (my guess would be it would be mighty pricey to get it all the way over the ocean)
Thank you anyway for all the effort to build this!
Thanks for the support! There are several reasons I’m not shipping the assembled units outside of North America. Primarily - as you’re seeing in the thread above switch plate and work box dimensions are different from country to country and I don’t have a process in place to test fit into every country’s variation without some help from the community. Secondarily, shipping international is a pain in the butt that I’d rather avoid for the moment until I figure out a way to scale my process a little better 
Efforts are being made on these fronts however! If you have a 3D printer and are willing to help me test several iterations on a design, and can provide dimensional drawings for common switch plate and work box dimensions in your country, I can work with you to develop a suitable solution.
There are no promises however - the LCD in use was chosen for the express purpose that it was the largest screen I could find that would still fit between North American work box mounting screws, and that’s only by a couple mm, so it may very well be that things simply won’t work in any box that is smaller than NA standards. I don’t have a lot of wiggle room on this issue, it needs to fit in the wall, the screen is the smallest size available from Nextion, and replatforming off of Nextion would mean starting over from scratch.
hi,
can you please share the slicer settings and orientation you are using the front looks very smooth would love to achieve that quality,
thankyou
Nothing too special, using stock Slic3r Prusa Edition profile for PETG with temp adjusted to the particular PETG I’m using based on a test tower. The STLs as you download them are in the correct orientation for printing. It’s all about the first layer! I’m using a brand-new Prusa PEI bed which doesn’t (yet) have any scratches or gouges so everything comes out very smooth on the first layer. If you can make it stick, glass can provide a glass-like finish too.
Currently printing some minor edits to a housing for an air quality sensor I’m currently working on: [edit:stream over]
I will for reference here link resources for German switch boxes.
They are somewhat simpler and have a diameter of 60mm, depths can vary, the bigger ones are 41mm deep.
Faceplate size can vary (see for example: http://www.merten.de/uploads/tx_seqdownload/UP-Programme_1.pdf) but of course needs to cover at least 60mm.
typical faceplates also stick out quite a bit so that the display part could easily be above the wall.
+1 on AU! I’ll measure a switchbox, judging from photos it’ll likely be fairly similar
Some of my faceplate screws are Countersunk (oval), raised type (UK), that’s for standard old white faceplates, I think some fancy faceplates will use countersunk (flat) type. See picture for the two screw types I have, the black flathead is for some black anodised faceplates I have the other is a standard oval head for the white faceplates both are countersunk type. The faceplates are 85mm square.
NZ and AU are interchangeable as far as I know.
I’m based in Australia was looking to do something like this myself. I saw this project and was extremely impressed so I got a Nextion Screen and have ordered a few Wemos to make my own.
Thing is in Australia we have different light switches and mounts. we use a plaster C Clip and a wall mount which a cover then goes over.
So I have designed my own mount (still very much a work in progress) which utilises these mounts.
Unfortunately i can’t share more than one pic as i’m still a new member.
Happy to share the STL’s if anyone is interested.
Still waiting on my Wemos’s to show up from Ali express. Last lot got returned as the sender didn’t put my post code on the package. facepalm
NZer here, I think they will work for us too!
Yep should do mate. Been over the ditch a few times and you guys use the same switches.
Uploaded a quick vid to YouTube showing a finished print. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=18rcD1aRWnI
Here is a render of it in the wall using a C Clip. (Screw holes don’t line up 100% but are more forgiving in real life)
Cool. I have had one of @luma’s plates and rear bits printed recently and the back bit does not QUITE fit inside the c-clip on the long edge. Have you had any luck with that? Perhaps a little hard to see in the photo (and yeah I had it printed in black as that was the only colour the guy with the printer had at the time!)
I haven’t actually thought about the rear part at the moment. I was just going to leave it in the wall. But I’m also no planning on powering it by mains voltage. It’s highly illegal to do your own wiring in Aus and no Sparky in their right mind would let you wire it in. I’m planning on powering it through USB. Will run a USB cable through the wall and have a Sparky put a plug base in the roof.
That being said however i might look at building a cover into the back of it.
