I finally received SY8120B1ABC. I soldered SY8120B1ABC to replace J5EDH and the LD2450 worked. SY8120B1ABC 100% suitable to replace J5EDH
For reference. I couldn’t find in the description which side the SY8120B1ABC should be installed on and I was guided by the same point as on the J5EDH. According to the SY8120B1ABC diagram, this is the first leg and is designated as BS in the diagram.
@ DivanX10: So, what you’re trying to say is that based on ONE SINGLE occasion you simply conclude that hilink is a bad seller, although they sold millions of (working) devices successfully? (including to me) ? After all, from a picture you published it was unclear where they said that they’ll refund 0€…? It was only shown “refund”. To be honest, i don’t see any logic in refunding 0€…
How do they (or we) know that you didn’t “burn” sensor by yourself? It happens quite often: people destroy something when testing, then they say to a seller that it came broken… I’m not saying that YOU did it, i’m just saying that calm down a bit. You’ve had a bad experience. I’ve had quite a few, but i never publised a big story in public…
At last, like admin said: this topic is about CONNECTING sensor to HA and not about your personal bad experiences.
(My deep apologies, @admin, i just had to reply… please. delete this one, too.)
I really think it’s not the place to discuss your purchase experience here.
Are there any settings that control/adjust the sensitivity of the radar?
I find that sometimes when I’m setting still and doesn’t move the radar erroneously detects that there are no presence.
Not that i know, LD2450 is more suitable to track movement and not still targets.
For still targets you can beter use LD2410
Did you run tests that proof that? I really don’t have any recognition issues when I’m still with the LD2450.
I’m really interested how is it standing against LD2410
I have both. 2410 very rarely fails me on still target - mostly if i’m completely still and on farther side of range.
DFRobot same, almost never has it false “no presence” event.
2450 however has that often, i actually increased timeout for light off because of this. I wouldn’t say it’s solely motion sensor, but still target possibilities are definitely lower than former ones.
I made a video overview of the LD2450 sensor and a usage example with my firmware
Brother-Ukrainian!
Subscribed.
I haven’t updated in a while, thanks for adding presence zone so I can still exclude zones.
How many presence zone can added to the yaml, 3 zones?
So that explains why the cat didn’t trigger the sensor, detection is at least above waist height
You can add any number of software detection zones as long as there is enough controller memory. I use five zones on one sensor and plan to add two more.
Yes, the sensor is located at the level of the belt and is directed upwards. Thus, he sees only people in a standing or sitting position.
Btw, is the presence region configured in the yaml exposed in ha?
So I can just plot it in the graph
Hardware zones are exported to Home Assistant, software zones are not exported. I think it can be added as an attribute of a binary sensor, or add separate entities.
Would that be using helper (input number) in homeassistant?
Or maybe there’s a way i can just add fake numbers on the plotly graph
You can add zones to the plotly graph with constants
Morning all,
I have a c3 mini and ld2450 laying around and thought I would try this presence sensor. How do I connect it to this board and do I need to change anything in the YAML?
my 4 ordered sensors arrived, will start experimenting with those soon!
Nice oneö but one comment on printing cases. Do not use PLA for printing power supply case. First and most important - it is highly flammable, I had fire in my house last year from exact the same setup, case cought in fire, flames fall on the bed and fire started, luckily there was no one in the bedroom at that moment. Room burned completely with expensive furniture.
Second is PLA cases are very exposed to heat deformations.
Better to use regular non flammable power supply in complete enclosure and to make sure its compliant with international standards.
I experiment with resin printed cases too and vas surprised how resistant they are to heat after printing (ANYCUBIC tough resin) I couldnt even drive nuts to the holes with solder iron!
So better to print cases using resin printers.
Usually ESPHome platform, UART pins, encryption keys and passwords need to be changed.
Well, there are couple of things here:
First, PLA won’t deform inside of a room (i guess no-one has 70 degrees inside…), however PLA is now also available in high-temperture option, which won’t deform up to 90 degrees.
Then, there’s a question to be made WHY the case caught in fire in the first place? Bad design - lack of protection/fuses, not enough heat dissipation…? There are tons of cases, materials, stuff… in the house which are flammable, so if you would say for each thing “don’t use that material, it can catch fire” you’d end up with an empty room… If you draw, say, 3.3V/50 or 100mA for LD24xx power into PLA enclosure then there’s no chance for melting anything. 0.3W is uncapable of melting anything.
There are flame-retardant ABS available, but as said: for general use taking into account all safety measures PLA is quite acceptable. There’s always a risk using any electrical equipment, but if you take suitable safety measures then risk is totally acceptable.
