Hi, I received this wifi dimmer here but I’m not sure how to actually wire it to the wall switch.
From the manual, at least from the symbol, there’s power, brightness up and dimming.
Does it mean I need to use 3 gang switch like this?
Or could I still use with a 1 gang momentary switch (with 2 terminals)?
Hi Shaq,
So, a little advice. Do with it what you will…
DANGER OF ELECTROCUTION If your device connects to mains electricity (AC power) there is danger of electrocution if not installed properly. If you don’t know how to install it, please call an electrician.
Remember: SAFETY FIRST. It is not worth the risk to yourself, your family and your home if you don’t know exactly what you are doing. Never tinker or try to flash a device using the serial programming interface while it is connected to MAINS ELECTRICITY (AC power).
I’m assuming that module is meant for a 3 gang retractive switch with up, down and power buttons.
This guy on reddit had the same problem - he found a switch but it was in a US size instead of EU size. https://www.reddit.com/r/homeautomation/comments/ymaezm/im_trying_to_find_a_3_button_dimmer_eu_standard/
Hopefully someone with more knowledge about switches will show up and be able to help you identify a compatible switch based on the link above. Good luck!
No you can’t.
An advise : Get Shelly Dimmer 2 and you can use whatever switch you already have.
Yeah, that looks like it’s designed for 3 buttons and similar to other tuya dimmer.
I could add tiny spring and make the switches retractable
Before that, do I get the wiring right for the switches? From the diagram it looks the neutral’s bridged with the switches
I’m no electrician, but the wiring diagram for the switch part on that module seems wrong.
I’d expect the diagram to connect the switches to Live, not Neutral, since switches are usually connected to live. The way you have drawn it is how they expect you to connect them, but that means you’d somehow have to rewire your switch feed in your consumer unit and hook it up to Neutral.
The whole thing seems a bit iffy - I’d either throw the damn thing away or at the very least, get a very good electrician. Like the others have said, don’t try this yourself.
EDIT: Confirmed in one of the reviews for an identical product.
Looks correct. Try it on the desk before you redo your house wiring.
Be aware that those dimmers don’t have any real certificates. If you burn your house, your insurance is not gonna cover it. Another reason to go with Shelly.
Well, i think I have a defect unit
I only wired the live and neutral and it’s not turning on, no led blinking or detected by tuya app
Will update again once i got the replacement
I’d have sent it back for refund & gotten a shelly dimmer personally.
Side note: in your first picture the instructions say that both input & output must be connected when testing. Maybe that’s why it’s not working.
I wonder what kind of circuit they have inside if they need output to work. I wouldn’t install that in my house even if they pay me…
Some person here discovered that the diagram requires momentary push switches. https://www.reddit.com/r/homeassistant/comments/17bnkvt/fs05r_zigbee_dimmer_anyone_used_it_with_zha/
The best solution I can think of right now is to replace their firmware with OpenBeken and then implement a low-voltage switch yourself using GPIO pins: https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4027492-30.html
Yeah, this one uses gpio instead of tuya mcu for dimming. Swapped the beken chip with esp and added rotary encoder for dimming in tasmota.
Figured it would be easier with knob controls instead of button long press.
From that diagram, no. Completely wrong.
Here is my best guess:
(Excuse the wrong symbol for the light bulb. My library is not old enough to have incandescent light bulbs).
I got my FS-05R today, desoldered the CBS2 module, and managed to get esphome installed on it. I’ve now added two more low voltage wires to GPIO pins P23 and P6.
I’ve managed to get it to work! I’m sharing my ESPHome config here for others. I do not have a physical dimmer switch so I only wired up the dumb switch to P6 and P23. In order to adjust the brightness outside of the app, I set up the dumb switch to trigger a cycle between brightness settings if someone repeatedly toggles it within 5 seconds:
esphome:
name: fs05r
name_add_mac_suffix: false
friendly_name: FS-05R Mini Dimmer Switch
on_boot:
priority: -10
then:
- globals.set:
id: boot_complete
value: "true"
- light.turn_off: out
bk72xx:
board: cb2s
# Enable logging
logger:
# Enable Home Assistant API
api:
encryption:
key: !secret encryption_key
ota:
- platform: esphome
wifi:
ssid: !secret wifi_ssid
password: !secret wifi_password
# Enable fallback hotspot (captive portal) in case wifi connection fails
ap:
ssid: "FS-05R Fallback Hotspot"
password: !secret fallback_hotspot
captive_portal:
globals:
- id: brightness_index
type: int
restore_value: no
initial_value: '0'
- id: last_press_time
type: unsigned long
restore_value: no
initial_value: '0'
- id: boot_complete
type: bool
restore_value: no
initial_value: "false"
# https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic4039890.html
status_led:
pin:
number: P8
inverted: true
uart:
id: uartbus
rx_pin: RX1
tx_pin: TX1
baud_rate: 115200
debug:
direction: BOTH
time:
- platform: sntp
id: sntp_time
on_time_sync:
then:
- lambda: |-
id(last_press_time) = id(sntp_time).now().timestamp;
output:
- platform: gpio
pin: P23
id: S0
- platform: template
id: fake_tuya
type: float
min_power: 0.0
max_power: 1.0
write_action:
- uart.write:
# https://www.elektroda.com/rtvforum/topic3880546.html
id: uartbus
data: !lambda |-
uint8_t brightness_level = int(id(out).remote_values.get_brightness() * 255);
uint8_t toggle_value = int(id(out).remote_values.is_on());
// Calculate the value to send to the Tuya device
uint16_t val = brightness_level * 3 * toggle_value;
ESP_LOGD("fake_tuya", "Brightness: %d, Toggle: %d, val: %d", brightness_level, toggle_value, val);
// Split the value into two bytes
uint8_t high = (val >> 8) & 0xFF;
uint8_t low = val & 0xFF;
// Prepare TuyaMCU data packet
// [0] 0x55 - Start byte
// [1] 0xAA - Second byte
// [2] 0x00 - Protocol version or command type (can vary)
// [4] 0x30 - Command type of package (content)
// [5] 0x00 - The size of the packet`s data content in bytes (high)
// [6] 0x03 - The size of the packet`s data content in bytes (low)
// [7] 0x00 - Unknown
// [8] high - High byte of the calculated value (brightness * 3 * toggle_value)
// [9] low - Low byte of the calculated value
// [10] checksum - Checksum
std::vector<uint8_t> data = {0x55, 0xAA, 0x00, 0x30, 0x00, 0x03, 0x00, high, low, 0x00};
// Sum all bytes except the checksum itself (last byte)
uint16_t sum = 0;
for (size_t i = 0; i < data.size() - 1; ++i) {
sum += data[i];
}
// Take the result modulo 256 to get the checksum
uint8_t checksum = static_cast<uint8_t>(sum % 256);
data[data.size() - 1] = checksum;
ESP_LOGD("fake_tuya", "High: %d, Low: %d, Checksum: %d", high, low, checksum);
return data;
light:
- platform: monochromatic
id: out
name: "Dimmer"
restore_mode: ALWAYS_OFF
default_transition_length: 0s
output: fake_tuya
number:
- platform: template
name: "Brightness Adjustment Interval"
id: brightness_adjustment_interval
min_value: 0.0
max_value: 10.0
initial_value: 5.0
step: 0.5
unit_of_measurement: "s"
restore_value: yes
optimistic: true
icon: "mdi:timer-sand"
entity_category: config
binary_sensor:
- platform: gpio
pin: P7
id: button
name: "Button"
internal: true
on_press:
- script.execute: cycle
- platform: gpio
pin: P24
id: dimmer
name: "Dimmer"
internal: true
on_press:
then:
- light.dim_relative:
id: out
relative_brightness: -10%
- platform: gpio
pin: P26
id: brighter
name: "Bright"
internal: true
on_press:
then:
- light.dim_relative:
id: out
relative_brightness: 10%
- platform: gpio
pin:
number: P6
inverted: true
id: dumb_switch
name: "Dumb Switch"
internal: true
filters:
- delayed_on_off: 100ms
on_state:
- if:
condition:
- lambda: "return id(boot_complete);"
then:
- script.execute: cycle
script:
- id: cycle
mode: restart
then:
if:
condition:
light.is_on: out
then:
- light.turn_off: out
else:
- lambda: |-
uint32_t current_time = id(sntp_time).now().timestamp;
float cycle_interval = id(brightness_adjustment_interval).state;
auto call = id(out).turn_on();
// Check if the switch is pressed within the cycle interval
uint32_t time_difference = current_time - id(last_press_time);
if (time_difference < cycle_interval) {
// Switch the brightness index
id(brightness_index) = (id(brightness_index) + 1) % 4; // Cycle through brightness levels
// Set brightness based on the profile
if (id(brightness_index) == 0) {
call.set_brightness(1.0);
ESP_LOGD("cycle", "Brightness set to 100%");
} else if (id(brightness_index) == 1) {
call.set_brightness(0.66);
ESP_LOGD("cycle", "Brightness set to 66%");
} else if (id(brightness_index) == 2) {
call.set_brightness(0.33);
ESP_LOGD("cycle", "Brightness set to 33%");
} else {
call.set_brightness(0.15);
ESP_LOGD("cycle", "Brightness set to 15%");
}
}
call.perform();
ESP_LOGI("cycle", "Time difference: %lu seconds, Brightness index: %d", time_difference, id(brightness_index));
// Update the last press time
id(last_press_time) = current_time;
Note for others down the road, unshielded 3.3V wires near mains voltage can pick up interference, causing unstable readings or erratic behavior due to electromagnetic or capacitive coupling. To avoid this, keep 3.3V wires away from mains wiring—just a few centimeters of separation can make a big difference!