How about those of you that have made the full mod and don’t use the Ikea pcb anymore, any chance I could buy one from you? 
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Hi Everyone - im looking to do this project, but to simplify it a bit (hate to solder) - would maybe be possible to move completely out the board and just use shelly controller to control the fan? (or something similar?)
Hey, I’m new to creating home-assistant yaml so this is really helpful, thanks. Is it reasonably easy to achieve similar based on two variables? Like VOC sensor values or PM2.5 / PM10 values, and pick the higher alert status (no-alert/low/medium/high) of all the inputs (sensors)?
I’d probably just use node-red and mqtt, but that’s just the tools I know (everything looks like a nail with a hammer in your hand) so I’d like to improve and understand home-assistant a bit further.
Hi @tht
I like your project and planning to do it myself as well.
Only thing is I have a D1 Mini ESP32 instead of the ESP8266 that was used in this example but as you wrote that ESP32 devices are also fine I guess I am ok.
Only thing I wanted to clarify and make sure before I start soldering is the pins to use. in your example you use D1, D2, … which are the naming of the pins on the 8266. However on the 32 they are named differently.
What I found out is that the D1, D2 etc are related to GPIOs e.g. D1=GPIO 5, D2=GPIO4 etc.
Those I find also on the ESP 32. Is it correct that I can use the GPIO pins on the 32 that relate to the ones on the 8266? Or is it more complicated than that?
Thanks!
Hi,
unfortunately there was no answer to my questions above. As this is my first project of this sort I don’t wanna make it more complicated than it needs to be so I got a D1 Mini 8266 instead. Also because otherwise I might have to adapt the code.
Anywho I managed to get the D1 setup in ESP Home and uploaded the config. Looks very good and I can see it in HA.
Only thing I am wondering: under controls I can switch the airpurifyer on and of. However I thought since we connect all the wires to the different 3 intensity settings of the dial that I could switch the level 1-3 in the HA interface as well.
Is that somehow possible and has anyone managed to modify the code this way?
Thanks 
Try to click on the fan symbol to the left of your “FOERNUFTIG Fan” label. That should open a modal similar to the attached, that lets you select one of the speed 4 levels.
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I like to build this too. Probably just by hacking the original PCB.
Just to confirm what I understand. The fan pins CLK and FG are safe for a 3.3v ESP?
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Thanks, you had the same question I did, but asked it. Having trawled the photos it looks so (or at least they look wired direct in this post).
Yes, that is a very good point I also wanted to add here.
I now completed the project and it works. However I fried the first D1 Mini 8622 because I set the step down converter as stated in the initial post to 5V. After connecting everything the fan was randomly starting and stopping and also the D1 did not show up in my wifi. When I connected it to the USB port instead everything worked fine.
So I figured out that it had to do with the power and then read somewhere that the pins of the D1 can only handle 3.3V and not 5V. For me that is still super confusing as it explicitly has a 5V pin. So why the hell add this pin if it cannot handle 5V is completely beyond me. Maybe someone has a logical explanation I would be interested.
New D1, changed the step down converter to 3.3V, connected the Out + to the 3V3 pin and the Out - with the G pin and everything works finally.
Probably the OP confused the voltage of the D1 mini that can only tolerate 3.3V with a nodemcu that can tolerate 5V. If you have many ESPs in different forms is easy to confuse one with another. About the Wemos D1 mini, I remember seeing in Aliexpress some clones with a 5V pin.
Although a confusion with the voltage is unfortunate, I found it totally reasonable 
I did this project this weekend and it works like a charm. Thank you very much to the OP and all the people involved!
Cool nice to hear. Mine is going strong and without issue since a few weeks now
Maybe it was misunderstood but I absolutely did not complain about anyone in this post but I don’t get why the manufacturer of the D1 Mini puts a 5V pin on the device which it cannot handle. From the schematics I found online all D1 Minis have that 5V pin. Btw it was not a cheap know off on Aliexpress but I bought it from a very respectable electronics company here in Germany call AZ Delivery. Btw they have great service and high quality products.
Btw I automated it now in combination with an Aqara Air Quality Monitor that measures the TVOC values and if they go over a certain threshold the purifier starts and stops on its own.
Thanks @EarlGrey for your ESPHome code. It worked perfectly using the v2 board designed by @horvathgergo
This project has been pretty awesome. I implemented it with the V2 board and @EarlGrey 's code. Is there any reason why the PWM is set to such a low frequency (150Hz) ? From my understanding, for fan PWM’s you usually want to use a frequency above 20KHz so you can’t hear the PWM switching. I’m tempted to boost mine to 25kHz as I do with my other fans, but all the examples that I’ve found of this are using low frequency PWM outputs which makes me think I’m missing something here.
So I ordered @horvathgergo 's v2 board from jlcpcb. Well, technically I had to order 5, 3 plain pcbs and 2 built ones, but whatever. Total cost ~£35 for 2 full boards, so I may acquire a second purifier for the spare room. I used @EarlGrey 's code, installed it all and… it just worked! Thanks guys, it’s a really nice set up.
Hey!
I’m trying to have the custom PCB ordered from jlcpcb. I’ve added the rar file from the git repository, uploaded the BOM and CPL files. I’m now stuck at the part selection, where some of the parts are not found. The problem are the following parts, which I’m guessing is two capacitors: C1 100uF CP_Elec_8x10 and C3 470uF CP_Elec_10x10.5. How do I know what parts to add? The J1 and J2, what I’m guessing is the connectors for the cables is also not found, but I guess I could desolder them from the Förnuftig board. Could any one help me out?
And if anyone, preferably in Europe/Norway, have a left over custom board. Would you be willing to sell it to me?
There’s a bit of guesswork with the BOM as those two caps are in the extended list at jlcpcb (as in, not in their default pick’n’place palette). I used:
C1: C2891896
C3: C346948
J1: C493111
J2: C163037
J3: C358684
You’ll have to do a bit of drag and drop part placement on the website, either the placement file is a bit off, or the web importer is a bit shit. Most bits are obvious, but the tiny voltage regulator(?) V1 should be rotated so that the pins line up and the pink dot is at the top left. The rest is just Lego-ing it together.
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Hey!
I recieved my custom board from jlcpcb. I’ve installed micropython and uploaded the files from the repository. I’ve configured wifi and mqtt. Now the device shows up in home assistant, but it’s totally unresponsive. When plugged in it goes straight to 100% fan speed. The rotary switch does nothing, and it doesn’t react to my inputs in home assistant. Anyone got a clue what I’m doing wrong?
EDIT: I’ve reflashed micropython using the same version as used in the repository (I was originally on MP 1.22.2, now I’m on 1.19.1). The device shows up in home assistant when plugged in, but does not respond to any input. It turns ‘unavailable’ after about a minute. I’m also unable to access the webinterface on the devices ip adress. It does respond to pings.
EDIT2: Flashed esphome and @EarlGrey 's code. Works great.
I’m going to order a bunch of these ()horvathgergo’s fornutig boards in the UK, either 5 or 10. DM me if anyone wants the extras for postage and cost.1
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Hi, I’d like two if you have some laying around.
Hi does someone know if this is possible with a zigbee module for z2m? I prefer zigbee over wifi or bluetooth. And does someone knoe hoe to do this? I have never done it and would be my first hack.