Infrastructure, cabling & design

I’m powering the coils with This

There is no 230v switchable current attached. I’m just testing but when left on the relay gets crazy hot

The image shows a 5VDC output device however the information refers to a 24VDC device. Can you verify your device is marked as 24VDC output?
Do you have a multimeter to check the output voltage is correct? If so check it.

If the supply voltage is 24VDC and the relay is a 24VDC type then there is no reason the relay should get too hot to touch even if left on for a week or a month, or more, although it could possibly be faulty from manufacture I guess?

Do you have more than one to test? Try a second if you have one maybe?

EDIT: If it was 5VDC on a 24VDC coil it would run hot I believe.

I’m not sure what image you’re referring to (5v)?
It’s definitely connected to 24v, below is a pic of my dinrail.

I’ll try a different relay later today, it also showee condensation inside the relay so it may be faulty

First…love your ductwork and equipment layout…nice job!

I am having a little trouble following your wiring and will make some suggestions about some things at another time.

This is the image that was on the link you posted:

So I draw your attention to the label which reads OUTPUT: 5V 6.5A
Just confirm yours reads 24V ?A because even when I zoom in on the image you posted I cannot read that.

Then it does appear that you have Blue connected to the Top Left terminal which is -V and the Brown is connected to the Top third from Left terminal which is +V.

Can you confirm that but I think I can see that clear enough?

Then you have run the blue and brown 24VDC to your distribution terminals and then out the bottom (following your colour coding) with blue connected to the A2 terminal on the relay while the brown is first switched by your onboard relay and then connected to the A1 terminal on the relay. That all looks to be as is required and can’t fault the circuit from what I can see. Nice job!

Oops, sorry. Shoddy googling on my behalf. It is 24v power supply.
You are correct, I have A1(right terminal) connected to 24v + and A2(left terminal) connected to 24v-

I’ve got some more Loxone kit coming next week as the miniserver is a bit pointless without it, I’ll post pics of my testing board.
I’ll keep tinkering but I just don’t have as much time to dedicate to this as i would like, the rest of the build planning is really bogging me down… May have to get a Loxone installer anyway just because there are only so many hours in the day.
Thanks for the relay connection confirmation, I’ll try the other relays and see if they heatup

1 Like

You seem to be having 12V relays (title of your ebay link: " 4pcs ╍ Finder 12V SPDT 10A Relay & Socket ╍ 5pin 40.31.7 with 95.83.3 socket ╍ x", also I think I can read 12V on the relays in the picture of your setup…)

The coils will certainly get hot and won’t last very long if you run them with twice the appropriate voltage :stuck_out_tongue:

btw: I’m using the exact same power supplies. Good choice.

Thanks Max

Steve pointed out my obvious mistake and I’ve ordered 24v replacements. Rookie error! I only bought them because they were £4 on eBay and seemed a bargain.

This is probably perfect for my home, the unipi 1.1 an it uses a Raspberry PI. If I get a v4 to run my Home Assistent on, can i use the same one to put on the unipi?

@lessmann may be able to confirm? @KingMark66 but as I understand it the RPi comes with the unipi when you purchase…of course I may be wrong on that?

You can choose Buy Unipi, but as i look closer, to the specs. Not compatible with v4

1 Like

I have looked into the Shelly 4 Pro, €79 din rail mounted. And some inputs, but maybe you can also link it with a shelly 1. But is this integrateble with HA, according to youtube you can set mqtt

Look here for discovery info

The Unipi is not compatible with Raspi 4 according to the documentation.
I got mine from Reichelt and then you have to add the Pi.

To control the Unipi you load Evok on the Raspi and then use NodeRed to control Evok so it is a natural partner to HA as it’s simple to include mqtt nodes wherever you need them. I’m not the biggest fan of NodeRed but that may change once/if I become more proficient at it.
In theory you could load both Evok and HA on the same pi.

I have some shelly devices and I used to use mqtt but now have moved over to the Shelly Smart Home intergration from the HACS, which does it all for you but I see @wellsy has already directed you to it.

1 Like

Unipi definetly looks interesting but if I would consider doing long term system I wouldn’t run it on raspberry equipped with sd card. It is too easy to corrupt. Usually bad power supply.

For myself maybe yes but if have to think the retail value then possibly not.

You can buy DIN mount power supplies which are affordable and good quality. Like this or EBAY

1 Like

I may just have been lucky but I’ve never had an SD problem on a Raspi.
The problem for me is Node Red, I don’t know if I have the patients to learn it.

I had the same. My thinkig was for a long time with logical gates AND, OR, XOR…
After getting that to my head that it doesn’t work (directly) that way I started liking it. Some things are easier on other systems like checking long conditional trees with “and” and “or” requirements.

But now that you have been using the unipi for longer what is the final outcome? Do you like or not like it?
What IO are you using?

Like others, I’m also rewiring for a house renovation and wondering what to install for lighting in particular. Mostly I want to keep it simple, and just have a few areas in the house where I can use scene mode lighting. Each area will need to be controlled from multiple switches because of the size of some areas.

For reliability of the lighting circuit I’d like something that runs the lighting independently of home assistant, but would obviously also be controllable via home assistant. Would also like to be able to use my own choices of switches.

I’d also like a system that can be replaced without major rewiring to make it possible to sell the house if the owner wanted a different solution.

Loxone looks interesting and maybe this is the best answer. If I go with my own switches (e.g. momentary push buttons), can I connect these through the the controller using cat7 cables? I also like the look of the Shelly 4 solution. Anyone had any luck with the Shelly 4’s? Can these do scene modes from a physical switch?

I also wonder if there is a solution where the brains can be installed in each room, rather than through to a central controller. I’m not super excited by the idea of a rack of kit in a cupboard with hundreds of cables coming into it. For example, I guess a Shelly 4 could be installed per room, and then linked up to a bunch of switches in the room. Are there any other solutions along these lines? I guess the tree mode in Loxone also achieves this to an extent?

As per my update on another thread I thought you may be interested.
The Loxone system does obviously rely on a node zero…
I’ve made a decision on Loxone and will not be going down the Unipi route.
Lighting, which is the main priority in a domestic smart home is really well served under Loxone and with the DMX extension you can add cheap chinese dmx dimmers to control all sort of lighting and even external relays so this pretty much solves the problem for “switching and dimming”.
I really like the Loxone wall switches which have 5 buttons and also the ability to click through preset scenes for each button. Having one of these in every room with a common logic throughout the house should make it very intuitive. For example you can have Top left for blinds up, bottom left for blinds down. Right up for music vol up and bottom right for music vol down and middle button to toggle through light settings or any combination you like but I think it’s important to decide on a “logic” and stick with it thoughout the house.

What worried me with Loxone was the limited I/O and the additional extensions are expensive but with the tree extension you can add 100 devices. This covers motion sensors and the wall switches so even though the devices themselves appear expensive at first, the fact that they connect problem free with no need for additional inputs make them very appealing. The light switches also measure temperature and humidity and the motion sensors have a light sensor too so you get more than just one action from each device. This should cover any expansion needs without having to buy more PLC hardware.

The software was a bit tricky to understand at first but if you can set up HASSIO, you can manage this. It’s simple, well documented and very flexible.
I like it alot! The customer service on the other hand is useless but I’ve had some good advice from the forums.

I’ve still got to get my head around how this will control the UFH and pump etc but I’m confident this will manage it just fine.

1 Like

@lessmann I missed this post as I have been very busy with my own project and spending less time on this forum.
Good that you have settled on the direction you are headed. When does your construction/renovation begin? Will you be posting your progress on here?

Hope it all goes well for you!