I understand your approach. The diffrence between the 2 approach is that with the Bluetooth-proxy you can add several BLE sensors like LD2410B, for exemple 3 on the same node…
I like this way because each time i use a Wemos, i consume one IP. And i have actually 165 devices on my LAN, almost for my smart home, 80% are on Wifi. So i love this approach to stop consuming one IP for every new sensor, that s my point of view. Lol
for me it was working. And now it stopped working. I am thinking about the right powersupply vs USB power. What did you do about the 5V RX/TX of the LD2410 and the 3.3V RX/TX of the D1 mini?
Could it be my D1 mini or my LD2410 is broken because of this?
I checked the datasheet and I dont think the voltage of the RX/TX is an issue: The module IO level is 3.3V. The default baud rate of the serial port is 256000, 1 stop bit, no parity bit.
I use the Wemos D1 mini boards. Two boards with the same config. 1 is no longer booting the other one starts but is not sending any values. The led presence “button” is working. led goes on/off and I see the logging.
Not sure if it is related to yours or not and I was setting up the LD1115h and not the LD2410 sensor. Everything seems to work while I was testing the sensor using the pc usb as power. I have 2 other sensors attached to the D1 mini. When I closed everything up and placed it where the device will go, it will not power up. I have tried several power supply adapters, but none seems to work. I tried this fix to see if it will work and it did.
I did have the LD2410 setup on a D1 mini and only have this one sensor hooked up. It is working for me and I didn’t have to solder the capacitors.
Anyone successfull to integrate the LD2410C using the bluetooth-proxy ESPHome?
The sensor is not recognized in my system:
Home Assistant 2023.2.5
bluetooth-proxy by esphome Firmware: 2023.2.3
Firmware version LD2410C: 1.07.22091516
Standard PW: HiLink
Other BLE devices work.
The LD2410C is connecting with the HiLink iOS app
yes 79mA is typical and need is 200mA, i just take a phone charger 5v 1A and solder the wires with the wires of my connector that have a 1.25 pitch i have buy for this, link in a few post above.
I was hoping to have a standalone sensor, like a typical zigbee motion sensor. As I have a window near my proposed location, I am thinking of one of these
Yes…i will love to do a standalone sensor with LD2410 but :
a 2500mAh is never 2500mAh…i mean what is writen on the battery from Chi… is almost all the time a bit exagerated…
i think instead of a Lipo battery of 1000mah, who is more near to 850mAh, and then 850/79=10 hours. If you have 14 hours of sun, it can work lol
With a 18650 of at least 1500mAh available, it will work : 1500/79=18 hours.
But about your link, excuse me, but its a joke, a bad one : i have some solar panel of 130x200mm and they didnt give more than 200mah at full sun for 12V output (2.4W). So, a small panel of 50x50mm is given for 160mah under 2v (0.32W) ? i have some doubt… and because its 2V, you will only have about 90mAh under 3.3v. For charging a 1500mAh at 0.32W…you will need 17 hours lol : (1500x3.7=5.55W / 0.32W = 17,34 hours). i live in a tropical Island and we have maximum 12 hours daylight and 10 hours very bright.
Good ideas and comments.
In addition to battery and panel performance I would also add some margin for module consumption. Similar to often other specs from Ch… it better then reality. My measurement with 3 sensor is that it takes on average 100mA (at least looking at the power supply indication for few minutes of sensor being connected).
With 100mA the results of battery performance are app. 20% worse…