Where you already able to connect it?
Otherwise you can connect the cables according to how they are connected to your transformer. See this post 34 for more details. You should be able to use the way Rubueno describes the wiring.
I connected it all. But I think i’m missing something. Shelly1 is visible in hass, when I switch the doorbell in hass the chime rings and everthing works but when I press the real doorbell the chime rings but hass does not detect it (no state change in de switch or sensor).
I used the native shelly integrations and also the shellyforhass and both the same issue. I dont think it is my wiring what do you think?
I tried an alternative option, because I was reading that other people were having the same issues all related to firmware versions. I installed the mqtt broker and Shellies Discovery Script. This is working fine and fast response when the doorbell is pushed.
A cool dumb doorbell made smart! Thanks!
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Will this work with sonoff mini?
Good to see it works now, although strange that it wasn’t working with the native and the Shelly4Hass integration.
See this post.
I have put some extra information on the bottom of the opening post for the scenario when the button of the doorbell is only pressed for a very short period and the chime rang but HA wasn’t triggered.
any chance you have a guide for sonoff mini instead? I believe sonoff mini has pulse mode which allows it to trigger the bell once.
@gerard33 there is one thing I do not understand. My trafo expects 230V and it needs two wires as input and two as output. I only see one in and one out in the schema? I would expect something like below.
Also if shelly gets 12V as input it will also output 12V to the trafo isn’t that an issue?
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The transformer generates an alternating voltage of 230 V - 8 V, not the other way around. As you can see in the picture, it can never work. Connect the 230V side to the mains (2 wires). Connect 8V one wire to the doorbell and the other wire via the relay contact (Shelly) to the doorbell.I and 0 is only the Shelly switch without voltage.
If you have a bell for 12V DC, you can omit the transformer and use the supply voltage for Shelly.
Thanks for the guide, I’m ready to give this ago, however I can’t get a 12V DC supply to my chime box. I was thinking that as the Shelly supports 110-240V AC that I could use the power coming into the transformer (220V AC) to power the shelly 1 also. Do you think that this would work?
@Hs82H Worth noting that some v2 Shellys from 2018 are incorrectly labelled: https://www.facebook.com/groups/ShellyIoTCommunitySupport/permalink/1773415342757822/
Doesn’t make much difference with AC mains, but the DC wiring is then wrong.
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DO NOT DO THAT. The switch terminal on the Shelly is not isolated from the mains supply — and neither will your visitor be…
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Would this setup work than? The transformer will receive it’s power just like it’s currently installed in my house.
Only thing that changed really is that the shelly 1 is in the 8V circuit
Thanks, I was thinking it might have been a problem. I just needed someone to confirm it, before I did something stupid 
That should be fine, although you’re wiring the bell transformer the wrong way around in the diagram, which could result in 7kV at the bell 
Yes you’re right, for my transformer it’s the other way around, I fixed it in my picture below
Top is top 230V and bottom is 8V.
Yes, it is alright. Since you were considering connecting Shelly to 230V, you will get 230V on the button, which is dangerous !!!
Use only safe voltage.
In the picture you have the wrong marking 230V AC + -.
Correctly, L and N.
If a second transformer was added to the 220v AC to convert to 12v DC and this was used to power the shelly. Everything else would remain the same wouldn’t it?
Yes, that’d be as safe as your 12V transformer — although all this running off DC is not making use of one of the key benefits of the Shelly, a mains-power-capable ESP device in a tiny box.
If you were that way inclined, you could replace it with a generic 5V-capable ESP device (e.g. D1 Mini) and a relay and run it off an old USB phone charger. That’d give you more flexibility, inputs and outputs etc.
I started with a ESP-01 but due to the power problems hoped the Shelly would work, I’d assume I’d need use a 5v transformer in that case, as I don’t have a power socket near the door chime box. Thanks