Brand: Bosch
Model: Climate 2000 - CL2000 35 E (indoor unit) / CL2000U W 35 E (outdoor unit)
Market: IT
There is no doubt my unit is a classic Midea, 2023/24 design with Info displayed via LED on the cover of the indoor unit and with the white, long remote controller with orange back-light.
Just today, arrived the SMARTLIGHT SLWF-01pro (v.2.1) that i order from Aliexpress with a proper cable. The setup was pretty straight forward, after giving the IoT Wifi to the stick, and setup a static IP, i quickly download the docker version of HA on my unRAID NAS, quick setup, add a new device, selected ESP Home and done.
It works pretty well. But, i was expecting to see more function compared to the remote, i was thinking that having a basic model, just mean that some function could be not visible on the remote but working or available on the mini split, because i noticed that the mainboard are almost all the same between models.
For example, i don’t see the humidity sensor, i don’t see the power draw, i can’t use the Boost/ECO mode.
But maybe, there is something from with my HA setup. I would try more setup in future.
I was mostly curious to see if my mini split was compatible too with the ESP Home key.
Hey, i also would like to get some more photos or atleast instructions as how to open up the unit. I tried removing all the screws i could see but was still not able to open it up. @redpersian Did you ever get a reply or figure it out on your own?
Edit: i found a diffrent post from him in another thread with pictures and a guy describing how to open the Midea Real Cool 35.
Take off all visible screws of the AC unit and then pull on the back. its held in by clips and they are strong, takes a bit of force to remove. Then the Rest is pretty easy. The USB is near the top of the front, roughly where the midea logo is. i just tilted the front a bit and switched the usb sticks.
It is not necessary to get the display PCB out. The Wifi connector is accessible after removing the rear housing of the unit. It might be hidden under a grey foam sticker.
Hi, Sorry I haven’t logged on to forums in a while. I used an esp8266 12f and a regulator to utilize the space they left for their module. as far the code is concerned, here is what I used for the pins.
logger:
baud_rate: 0
uart:
tx_pin: 1
rx_pin: 3
baud_rate: 9600
## IR part:
- platform: template
name: AC Display Toggle IR
id: ac_display_toggle
on_press:
- remote_transmitter.transmit_toshiba_ac:
rc_code_1: 0xB54AF50AA55A
it works well, just let me know if you need full yaml config.
Can I ask how you put a switch to enable and disable follow me?
I tried with the display setting but every time it always goes back to “OFF” and the log shows [W][component:237]: Component web_server took a long time for an operation (189 ms)"
and “[W][component:238]: Components should block for at most 30 ms” every time I press it.
Another question:
How did you implement “Prevent direct blowing” ?
The esphome wiki does not have the IR code for this feature, and I have no idea what it could be.
Thank you very much
Everything works except the display, the switch when I press it then returns to the OFF position by itself, I can’t understand why, at the moment I have no way of testing if the display actually turns off and on because the IR LED has yet to arrive at my home, but it’s a matter of a week at most.
The uart communication protocol cannot know whether the display is on, nor can it only control on or off. It can only control display toggle.
I use template switches because there are additional sensor(photoresistor) that automatically recognize the display state. If you don’t need to automate turning the display on or off, you can simply use the template button to control the display.
Display switch and photoresistor sensor combination
Drilled a hole above the WIFI sign, installed a photoresistor facing the hole, and covered it with tape to avoid interference from other light sources.
Senville SENL/18CD/IY
This unit is compatible but did require modification of the UART connector. Initially I was able to plug it in with a little more than normal force. The SLWF-01 did power up and connect to my Wifi and Home Assistant, but did not communicate with the mini-split. It reported the unit off and the sensor status were all unknown. After trying to add clearance slots to the SLWF-01 plug, I changed my mind and found it much easier to remove the circuit board from the mini-split and used an X-Acto knife to remove the tabs from the jack instead. Once removed it plugged in easily and came right up and worked as expected.