I am struggling with fixating the the nut to the bold. In the instructions above, some glue is used https://youtu.be/87yFGr4fGRY?t=143 As I do not have some special glue, I have tried it with hot glue, but that isn’t working. I’ll need some specific glue for metals, I suppose.
For those who, like me, need to open a large blind fast and not struggle with it rolling down when the power is removed, I have a DC worm-drive motor working very well.
My blind is over 2m tall in an exit doorway so the target opening time is less than 10 s - it is currently about 12 s and I’m hoping to reduce that!
The full code is at Motorised blind. Remember position - how? - I continue to search for a way to make the blind position survive power failures but the rest of the code works just fine and may help someone.
I use a 5V DC-DC converter to provide the 5V to the Hall effect sensors, D1 Mini, the optical sensor and the TB6612 https://recom-power.com/pdf/Innoline/R-78E-0.5.pdf, with capacitors etc. The 3V3 of the D1 Mini supplies the LED, Hall effect sensors, touch sensor.
I designed and 3D printed a new blind end for the motor that has a series of magnets mounted into it.
Can you share some details? Which parts do you use, and how is it mounted? Is the motor mounted at one end, and the rotary encoder at the other? I have everything working with some 28BYJ-48 on 12V, but I find them way to slow since the maximum speed I can set them to without skipping steps is 450 steps.
Unfortunately not, but it doesn’t bother me anymore. I also added position support since Esphome was updated. And also added an open offset, since for me at least, I had some problems that my motor would skip when opening, so the blind was not exactly in the correct physical position, and when closing again, it would sometimes go too much. This offset makes sure that when opening the blind, it is open with slightly more steps than needed, but these extra steps are not taken into account for the current position.
Here is the updated code, it also contains a switch for a relay controlling my heating, since the esp is close to that. You can ignore that part. (left more details below the code if interested)
I left the heating part here since it might be helpful for you guys to know about the new script feature with mode restart. The way I have this is that another Esp8266 calls this script to turn on heating, and it keeps calling it every 2 minutes or so. And in case the calls stop, after 5 minutes the script will turn off the heating, to avoid it running forever
I’ve got a 12v worm motor with encoder. Does anyone also use these and got a proper config? It isn’t as straight forward as a stepping-motor. I’ve tried setting it up using the on_value of the encoder, but that’s hard since it isn’t able to stop at exactly 0. Every rotation of the encoder gives 11 pulses, and I believe it’s a 1 to 64 gear ratio, so that’s a lot. I’m still experimenting myself, but it would save a lot of time if somebody has an example.
So I’ve got a working config now. Just one thing I can’t get fixed is the position-report. From my understanding 0 means opened (rollerblinds up), and 1 means closed (rollerblinds down). However, when I set the position to 0 using esphome, Home Assistant puts the slider all the way to the right. This also happens when I set the state as OPEN. If i set the closed position to 0.01 and the opened to 0.99 it works almost perfectly, but I think there is something wrong in my configuration.
Here is my code so far. Since the encoder goes too fast i’m not able to make it stop exactly on 0, so that’s something to keep in mind: