The only way around it is to modify the firmware and add the ‘fast_connect’ option to the WiFi config.
For hidden SSIDs, the only way it seems to work at the moment is to compile the source code yourself and fix the SSID and PW in there.
If we have time, we will try to do some optimization on this.
But for the time being, it’s not possible to make the connection without using the source code.
Understood.
Not to be disrespectful to your product and work, but this should have been out of the box.
I believe most of HA users are on the technical side which segregates their Production and IoT VLANs and they hide the IoT networks.
Anyway, I looked at the instructions on the custom firmware and I got lost. I guess I’m not that technical …
Any easier step-by-step guide by any chance?
Thank you.
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I can write something up if SCREEK doesn’t beat me to the punch.
With that said, there’s no benefit to keeping your SSID hidden.
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And you would be wrong. I only know of one or two users here who use a hidden LAN for IOT devices. It might make sense for cloud-based devices, but I wouldn’t know since none of my almost 100 devices are cloud-based.
I’m very sorry due to being very busy all the time at the moment, I’m afraid it’s hard to find the time to make a custom guide because compiling the firmware, if you start from scratch, involves quite a lot of various scenarios.
It’s kind of an esphome limitation for hiding the ssid, unfortunately.
The key attribute setting Ryan pointed out is very useful to specify a quick connect method when compiling the source code can be done:
fast_connect (Optional, boolean): If enabled, directly connects to WiFi network without doing a full scan first. This is required for hidden networks Defaults to off. The downside is that this option connects to the first network the ESP sees, even if that network is very far away and better ones are available. network is very far away and better ones are available.
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Grab the YAML from the SCREEK Github repo:
https://github.com/screekworkshop/screek-human-sensor/blob/9a237b7355bdedb31a9a43a1c4b1692838a3e595/1u/yaml/human-sensor-1u-github.yaml -
Compile the firmware using the ESPhome add-on or python library. Instructions below for ESPhome:
2a. In the add-on, create a new device.
2b. Click “Continue” in the pop-up.
2c. Give it a name and hit “Next”
2d. Select any board from the menu.
2e. Hit “Skip” in the next pop-up with the API key.
2f. Click “Edit” on the device you just created.
2g. Delete the contents and paste the YAML from step 1.
2h. Go to line 73, hit enter to create a new line, and add this in (be sure to replace the SSID and password information with the ones for your network):
fast_connect: true
ssid: # Your SSID
password: # Your password
And make sure the section looks like this:
2i. Click “Install” in the upper right hand corner.
2j. Select “Manual Download”
2k. Wait for it to compile.
2l. When the popup comes up, select “Modern Format”
- Pull the board out of the case. While holding the boot button, plug it into the USB port of a computer, count to two and let go of the button.
- Go to https://web.esphome.io/
- Click “Connect” and select the port for the board.
5a. I can’t recall what the port will look like exactly. If you get stuck here, post a picture of the options you get. - Click on “Install” and select the .bin file you generated in step 2.
- When it finishes installing, restart the ESP board (use the button or just unplug and plug it back in).
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Thank you for this. I will give it a shot!
What about the 2A model? I also don’t have a power outlet there but a quite big powerbank and I was hoping it could do the job.
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can we modify @webosa design to use LD2410C instead of DFrobot? 3D design ESP32 Multi-Sensor Enclosure | Tinkercad
No, because modifying that would take quite a bit of work.
only the PIR holder needs to be modified rest of the case remain such, I have already printed this case and tried using an LD2410C with it.
Only this lower part needs some modifications, either an overhead bridge kind of thing or a reduced size to fit LD2410C or copy over the top part and modify for LD2410C instead of using TSL2561(which will remain up there)
Except it doesn’t work like that. Modification would mean having to print it unmodified, making educated guesses at what needs to be change, making the modifications, and test printing again. That has to be repeated until it fits.
So, what I’m trying to say is that, yes it is possible to modify it, but no, I’m not willing to do it as I don’t have the time.
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The power consumption at 2A is just as bad, the esp32 heats up badly power consumption is poor and so is the ld2450, in fact the burst current at 2A is over 500 mA at times, it’s almost hard to imagine a battery that size. Our recent solution was to provide cheap 5 meter typec power cables and they worked ok.
Superbly written, but it’s really beyond the complexity of the average person’s understanding, and I’ll place it in a document and sign my name.
this may help some one use hidden ssid
I actually managed to have it working fine with 12m usb c cable from temu for 15 bucks.
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Anyone know why I can’t log into the HLKRadar tool? It will not accept the correct password and stays on the enter password screen. Tried it with both an iPhone and a tablet.
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Already working on this in an email.
I’m trying to use the HLKRadar App to configure and tweak the values for my Screek 2A presence sensor, and I have a totally different UI than what is posted above and on the website. I don’t see any options for detecting background noise.
I also have a newer firmware version that is even on the trial branch. What’s going on here? I am strugging to use it in my bedroom as the recall and precision are both terrible it is not usable right now
This thread is for the 1U that has the LD2410C radar in it. The 2A uses the LD2450. Different radars…different options…different firmware.
You want this thread:
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