SCREEK Home Assistant 24Ghz FMCW WiFi Human Presence Detector Radar 1U

Printing is free, we have stl print files available for hobbyists, or our users, for private use. But for the time being, the stl files will not be made public, this is because in terms of appearance, we have made very many attempts and efforts to debug the improvements. And yaml source code is always open for everyone to diy and check the software does not mean any malicious ingredients.

If you need a printout of our version, you can contact us separately and we can send you one.

Since this is just running an ESP32 board, does it by any chance support acting as a Bluetooth Proxy in addition to it’s presence capabilities?

1 Like

I’m not 100% sure, but I think the 1U uses an ESP32-S2 chip which unfortunately does not support bluetooth.

I have a LD2410C connected to a Wemos D1 Mini ESP32 compatible board and have it working fine as a Bluetooth proxy.

1 Like

Hello, I purchased this last June 15. I’ve been busy so today is my first time trying to add it to my Home Assistant.

I tried my laptop and phone to connect to the device’s hotspot, which it connects, but it won’t join my WIFI for some reason. It says just give it time to connect but after waiting for a while it just won’t get an IP.

I have a Ubiquiti UDM Pro and I checked all my devices and it is nowhere to be found.

So I tried connecting the device directly to my PC and went to https://web.esphome.io/ – When I try to connect to WIFI from there, It gives me an error

“An error occurred. Improv Wi-Fi Serial not detected”

Any tips for me to atleast have it connected to my network? I can’t even pass step 1.

TIA!

1 Like

Do you have separate WiFi networks for 2.4 GHz vs 5?

1 Like

There are some overly aggressive firmware settings in the earliest firmware that may cause some of the 1U’s wifi parts to be abnormal. If you can figure out a way to get close to your computer, try going to the hotspot page for the ota update.

Yes, 1U is 2.4G only, and connecting as close to the router as possible will help.

Hello,

I kind of figured out the issue but still doesn’t solve the main problem.

It looks like this device will not connect on Hidden SSIDs. I have 3 IoT SSIDs in my house, all are hidden.

First IoT SSID is a combination of 2.4/5Ghz, 2nd IoT SSID is only 2.4ghz, 3rd SSID is only 5Ghz.

While SSID is hidden, it won’t connect no matter what. I then exposed my SSIDs and it worked right away.

However, while the 1U is already connected to my network, I hid my SSID again and the 1U lost connection.

I don’t want to un-hide my SSIDs in my whole network just for 1 device.

Is there a workaround for this?

The only way around it is to modify the firmware and add the ‘fast_connect’ option to the WiFi config.

For hidden SSIDs, the only way it seems to work at the moment is to compile the source code yourself and fix the SSID and PW in there.

If we have time, we will try to do some optimization on this.
But for the time being, it’s not possible to make the connection without using the source code.

Understood.

Not to be disrespectful to your product and work, but this should have been out of the box.

I believe most of HA users are on the technical side which segregates their Production and IoT VLANs and they hide the IoT networks.

Anyway, I looked at the instructions on the custom firmware and I got lost. I guess I’m not that technical …

Any easier step-by-step guide by any chance?

Thank you.

1 Like

I can write something up if SCREEK doesn’t beat me to the punch.

With that said, there’s no benefit to keeping your SSID hidden.

1 Like

And you would be wrong. I only know of one or two users here who use a hidden LAN for IOT devices. It might make sense for cloud-based devices, but I wouldn’t know since none of my almost 100 devices are cloud-based.

I’m very sorry due to being very busy all the time at the moment, I’m afraid it’s hard to find the time to make a custom guide because compiling the firmware, if you start from scratch, involves quite a lot of various scenarios.

It’s kind of an esphome limitation for hiding the ssid, unfortunately.

The key attribute setting Ryan pointed out is very useful to specify a quick connect method when compiling the source code can be done:

fast_connect (Optional, boolean): If enabled, directly connects to WiFi network without doing a full scan first. This is required for hidden networks Defaults to off. The downside is that this option connects to the first network the ESP sees, even if that network is very far away and better ones are available. network is very far away and better ones are available.

  1. Grab the YAML from the SCREEK Github repo:
    https://github.com/screekworkshop/screek-human-sensor/blob/9a237b7355bdedb31a9a43a1c4b1692838a3e595/1u/yaml/human-sensor-1u-github.yaml

  2. Compile the firmware using the ESPhome add-on or python library. Instructions below for ESPhome:
    2a. In the add-on, create a new device.
    2b. Click “Continue” in the pop-up.
    2c. Give it a name and hit “Next”
    2d. Select any board from the menu.
    2e. Hit “Skip” in the next pop-up with the API key.
    2f. Click “Edit” on the device you just created.
    2g. Delete the contents and paste the YAML from step 1.
    2h. Go to line 73, hit enter to create a new line, and add this in (be sure to replace the SSID and password information with the ones for your network):

  fast_connect: true
  ssid: # Your SSID
  password: # Your password

And make sure the section looks like this:
image

2i. Click “Install” in the upper right hand corner.
2j. Select “Manual Download”
2k. Wait for it to compile.
2l. When the popup comes up, select “Modern Format”

  1. Pull the board out of the case. While holding the boot button, plug it into the USB port of a computer, count to two and let go of the button.
  2. Go to https://web.esphome.io/
  3. Click “Connect” and select the port for the board.
    5a. I can’t recall what the port will look like exactly. If you get stuck here, post a picture of the options you get.
  4. Click on “Install” and select the .bin file you generated in step 2.
  5. When it finishes installing, restart the ESP board (use the button or just unplug and plug it back in).
2 Likes

Thank you for this. I will give it a shot!

What about the 2A model? I also don’t have a power outlet there but a quite big powerbank and I was hoping it could do the job.

1 Like

can we modify @webosa design to use LD2410C instead of DFrobot? 3D design ESP32 Multi-Sensor Enclosure | Tinkercad

No, because modifying that would take quite a bit of work.

only the PIR holder needs to be modified rest of the case remain such, I have already printed this case and tried using an LD2410C with it.

Only this lower part needs some modifications, either an overhead bridge kind of thing or a reduced size to fit LD2410C or copy over the top part and modify for LD2410C instead of using TSL2561(which will remain up there)
image