Hi I had purchased a few 1w units but not sure how to setup and initialised once received the product. I had tried to use the yaml in screek-human-sensor/1w/yaml at main · screekworkshop/screek-human-sensor · GitHub
Do you have step by step guide for 1w setup?
Thanks in advance.
hi, you can join us group.We have refined the 1u firmware to simplify the way external components can be used. But 1w we will need a little more time.
We’ll post it in our group when the time comes.
Currently if you just need to connect to ha, you just need to match the network and then ha will be found. No code needs to be written.
Screek Workshop | Facebook
I purchased one and it works so well I have purchased another.
One comment I would make is that you may want to tune the sensitivity by using an Automation that looks at changes in the Still Energy exceeding a Threshold and triggering an action based on that rather than Presence.
It would be ideal if I could set the threshold that triggers both Still Target and Presence to be Detected but this workaround works.
You can adjust the still and moving thresholds via the HLKRadar Tool app via bluetooth.
Thanks for the prompt reply. I think I messed up the configuration and try to install the yaml from github source again but return with the follow error.
Thanks!
Link to app for others convenience: HLKRadarTool
And a great post that explains how to use it: LD2410 esphome tips - #256 by smoke.007
I bought one of these and it was as easy to set up as being mentioned here. The problem I have is that I have no power outlet in the toilet I am now planning to use it in, is it possible to power this thing with battery instead ?
I’m sorry, but I’m afraid batteries are not a viable option considering the relatively large amount of power required by the device. The radar module is a sensor that generates a lot of heat and consumes a lot of power, and the usual operating current is up to 70ma, while the esp32 in the RF section is also very power hungry.
i got my one a couple of days ago. wondering if I can use the Screek Human Presence Sensor 1U Sun Light state as a condition when running below automation. currently, it is on a time base.
such as if the sun light is below 5% then light will come on and go off if it is above that . it is like when we open and close the curtains in the bathroom lights should come on and go off if the sunlight state is between 0-5
alias: Master Bathroom Presence detection lights on
description: ""
trigger:
- type: occupied
platform: device
device_id: 3aa7549d4f4d6c263188eeface9b150e
entity_id: binary_sensor.screek_human_presence_sensor_1u_59ca4e_presence
domain: binary_sensor
id: detected
- type: not_occupied
platform: device
device_id: 3aa7549d4f4d6c263188eeface9b150e
entity_id: binary_sensor.screek_human_presence_sensor_1u_59ca4e_presence
domain: binary_sensor
id: not_detected
condition:
- condition: time
after: "17:00:00"
before: "07:00:00"
weekday:
- sun
- sat
- fri
- thu
- wed
- tue
- mon
action:
- choose:
- conditions:
- condition: trigger
id: detected
sequence:
- service: light.turn_on
data: {}
target:
entity_id:
- light.master_bathroom1
- conditions:
- condition: trigger
id: not_detected
sequence:
- service: light.turn_off
data: {}
target:
entity_id:
- light.master_bathroom1
mode: single
I guess if the brightness of the light is almost constant then this looks possible, this light sensor is very sensitive to daylight but very sluggish to artificial light. But it can distinguish between 1’s and 0’s, which is an interesting phenomenon. So I guess it’s an interesting idea.
https://support.screek.tech/1u/firmware/
If you received it recently, try updating to a newer firmware using ota, it performed a little better in our tests.
Hi. Just received my first 2 units. Installed the 1st one and connected it to my WIFI and all was well!
I then created a new ESPHome source file, using the yaml from your github page, added my network credentials etc in the source and compiled a new .bin file. I browsed to the device and used the OTA Update button to upload the new .bin file. After a short time, it came up with a “cannot display page” error page in the browser.
Now the device does not connect to the wifi, I cannot update via USB (it says that I need to hold the BOOT button while connecting, but if I try to do that, as soon as I select the port, it says the device has disconnected).
The device is not dead, as I can see it via bluetooth (it was discovered by HA and I configured it) and the “Motion” and “Occupancy” sensors work well.
Can you please help revive it?
Many thanks!
False alarm! I assigned a static IP to the device via my router, and the device now connects to the WIFI. Must have been a problem getting a DHCP address .
However, it is still on the original firmware.
When I try to OTA Update again using my firmware, I see the below in the scrolling log:
OTA Update Start: screek-presence–tv-room-factory.bin OTA in progress: 0.1%
OTA Update failed! Error: Wrong Magic Byte
Any ideas?
Thanks!
Even if I try to use OTA Update to upload your updated binary (ota-screek-humen-sensor-1u-20230704_1.bin), it progress to update 48% and then the browser shows a “cannot display page” error.
When I restart the device, it is still on the old (2023.5.1) firmware
Please help…
Thanks!
I apologize that since we weren’t in the community in time, the community can’t seem to send a forum reply email to me, which is odd.
OTA update please try leaning very close and letting the sensor cool down for a while before trying again. (ref to this)
this is cause by try to rewrite firmware to custom firmware, but with diffrent ota password.so you had doing once factory flash(by usb) to kick in you custom firmware.
OTA Update Start: screek-presence–tv-room-factory.bin OTA in progress: 0.1%
OTA Update failed! Error: Wrong Magic Byte
For initializing the flash to factory factory firmware, you can use the two-flash method. We mentioned this method in github. Plug the usb into the computer, then github download to the usb device, the first time it will fail, wait a few seconds, the device will enter the flashing mode, and then write again, there will be a chance to succeed.
If this doesn’t work then you need to open the box, hold the 0 button and press rst to enter dfu mode, then esphome will write.
We’ll do a guide on this soon if possible.
The s2 mini will be slightly more tricky on this side of things due to the fact that the usb-cdc is enumerated by itself, unlike the c3.
Also on the sensor itself you are welcome to join our fb community, we can always get push messages in there.
Contact - SCREEK WORKSHOP
@screek-workshop I bought 2, and they worked really well! Thanks!
Would you consider making one with mmWave sensor that can monitor heart rate and breathing?
I have three Screeks and they all seem to overheat and disconnect from wifi after a few days. All three of them. They’re in pretty regular areas in the house, out in the open. Any ideas? Are they just defective?
This graph doesn’t look good.
EDIT: Updated from 2023.5.1 → 2023.6.3. This probably fixed it. Also apparently it’s suggested to cut new holes into the old 3D printed case, as there are not vents.
yes, update the new firmware will get help: OTA Update - SCREEK WORKSHOP
The new design housing is now available: SCREEK Personalized enclosure Type 1U-BOX-B for 1U | eBay
If you have a printer, you can ask us for the stl file and print a copy yourself, it will save you cost and time.
We designed 1u in January when it wasn’t so hot, and parts of the summer that were very hot seemed too hot.
We have recently added cooling enclosures.
All subsequent 1u’s will have heat sink configurations.
Thank you for your support.
Looks like the firmware is the primary solution, but they still get up to 115-120ºF. No more crashing though!
I do have a printer! May I have the .stl? I also have a power drill and experience at adding holes to PLA and may go that route just to be lazy.
Radars have some high heat output, so they’re going to be a little warm anyway.
Temperature isn’t the only factor causing the problem, this S2 mini is used from a different vendor, and when they were manufactured, the most recent batch seems to have swapped out some key components (including crystals, LDOs), which leads to the possibility of a reboot when high power WIFI is coupled with high temperatures, and too many reboots in a row triggers the epshome’s safemode mechanism, which also causes the won’t budge.
The new firmware also optimizes the wifi’s strategy to return it to its default mild power saving. Since the previous us firmware we regulated it at full power.
We have sent you the stl file, please check it.
I don’t know why, but forum messages often don’t get pushed through by email, so please understand that there’s no way to get back to you in time.
I went the DIY route and ended up designing an alternate case with plenty of ventilation. Seems to be working well for me.
