Now things really got strange but I also feel we are really, really close.
Upstair switch works, but sometimes the light flickers, sometimes it goes on or off as it should but than won’t come back again and completley stops working. Until I press on or off in the APP now upstairs switch can again make signs of having an impact (flickers the light, turn them on or off etc). Also at one moment I did find the device as offline now in the app but after some switching it shoved online. Don’t know how to reproduce.
Downstairs. Working
App works.
As I said, behaviour is really strange and I can’t find any explanation but at least all 3 can “impact” the lights now.
Also, please let me know if you can’t tell the color of the wires i’m refering to in the picutres. The painter have painted them some what, so I can imagine it could be hard to see their actuall colors.
Sorry didn’t see you had replied. You should only be using 2 of the 3 terminals this is proberly where you are going wrong.
Maybe right on the back of your switch 1 ,2 and 3 so it’s easy for me to refer to terminals as that switch make seems to like to give them all the same number
Ok 2 3 and 6 are nothing to do with the switch or light you want shelly to control and number 2 should be left empty I would have L in 6 and light out of 3. Then do not touch these terminals.
4 is common and I would connect L to this one as well. Then depending on which terminal 1 or 5
Makes contact when the switch is pushed (it will only be 1 of them) connect this terminal to the L1 on shelly.
At this stage you should still have the 3 cores that you have verified going to your down stairs switch disconnected. You can not connect the down stairs switch Intel it is sprung.
4 To L aswell had me to introduce another wire so pictures now is a littlebit different.
1 is the side which gets pushed down so I connected this to L1 on shelly.
OK I disconnect the brown in 1, and the grey and dark. I also disconnected them downstairs just to be sure.
Results now
Shelly dimmer working!
Upstairs working!
I had to take two picutes for you to be fully able to see the wiring. I also photoshopped 1 of the pictures marking the L wire which is now bridged to ALL 4,5,6 terminals.
Yes you have mad a momentary switch. But if you bought one it would only have 2 terminals and be a little less confusing.
Ok if terminal 1 goes to terminal L1 on the shelly then terminal 5 on your switch in not used.
Ok the final step. Make sure the 3 disconnect wires do go between upstairs switch and down stairs switch.
Then put 1 in connectors for safty as we only need 2 of then.
One will connect to terminal 1 as you have marked it then to the same possision on downstairs switch.
The other will connect to terminal 4 as you have marked it then to the same possisison on downstairs switch. BUT !! only after you have added the spring.
This is how downstair is switched before me making any adjustments to it. This have been working for 10 years.
So I have installed spring downstairs aswell. and in Attempt 1:
Connected the gray wire to Terminal 1. As they shared the same icons on the switches “Arrow out”
Connected the black to Terminal 4. I noticed it has an L on the terminal downstairs and now we connected it to L terminals 4,5 and 6 upstairs (we have bridged them all now).
Left the brown wire (will terminate it for safety once we have the right wiring).
Result
Light turns on when the fuse is back in place
Upstairs Switch: No effect, Light stays on.
Downstairs Switch: No effect, Light stays on
Shelly App: No effect, Light stays on. However meassurement of Watts toggles between having a Watt output and not having anything. In “off” mode in Shelly app the W meassurements do drop to 0 but the lights stays on.
This to me sounds like regardless of switch position the current have a close circuit to the lamps but when Shelly App turns off it goes directly to the lamps without passing the Shelly.
I’m still confused.
Am I understand correctly that you momentary switch from bi-stable one but still wiring it as double throws?
Here is how you can use momentary switches connected in parallel (bottom part) in contrary to classic 2-way wiring . Wiring is drawn for Shelly1, but it should be very similar in case of Dimmer:
Note, that using momentary switches like on diagram above, you can use as many switches as you want.
>>Ok my last msg. nothing should be in terminal 5.
Sorry missed that. Will fix!
>>Be for your last step when upstairs sx and dim where working. Did you verify the 3 spare cores where dead? and went to down stairs switch?
I don’t really have a good way to verify that. My detector is a little bit too sensitive even of lowest level so it can react even when it’s not really that close to the wires. It was hard to tell if it was the 3 cores had current or if it actually detected the live wire (that is closeby).
So I tried but couldn’t get reliable meassurements and didn’t want to report back anything that could be false.
Also down stairs switch you did not mention there are 4 cores
Yes, you are right I also expected 3. But when I Opened it up again today after the 3 months since original post I saw the 4 cores. But It looks to me like the forth is just the Live beeing wired to the switch bellow.
In picture you can see 3 cores going up. Brown, gray and black.
1 going down to the switch bellow.
I have never used the one bellow and are not really sure what it controls but I guess another ceiling lampsocket in the end of that hallway
On picture I can see above your recent answer you can see switching current from terminal 7 to one of 8 and 9. This it double-throw.
Momentary switch I’m talking about should connect only 2 cables. I guess those will be 7 and 9 terminals
Going by the upstairs switch I would say 7 and 8 but without a tester it’s really trial and error.
I would disconnect brown and put it in connector
(Downstairs switch)
And just double check connections on the shelly to make sure no short between L1 and 0 as this would make the light stay on.
Yes, a double-throw is most likley it! I’m not electrician and with the single switches this was really easy. I could not imagine these stair switches would be that hard.
